[Z06] GM stage 2 cam vs GM stg3 cam?
#1
GM stage 2 cam vs GM stg3 cam?
i am interested in doing a cam swap in my car, and was wondering which cam would better suite me. I drive the car a couple times a week and want some more midrange and topend but i dont want to lose too much bottom end power at the same time. I also want good drivability but i hear that the GM stage 3 cam gets a little rough. I havent heard many reviews about the stage 2 cam and dont really know much about cam specs to figure out what it would be like. any help would be appreciated, thanks!
#2
Race Director
Check out this thread. It sounds nasty. It seems borderline for your use though. There are some really nice choices that net big HP gains w/o sacrificing torque.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-z...nasty-zo6.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-z...nasty-zo6.html
#5
Hi new member here.
I have been eyeing for a 06 Z06 for a while now and decided to pick one up in the next few months.
I also been looking at a lot of aftermarket parts for this car.
I want to ask is, how does the GM performance stage 3 cams compare to LG Motorsports camshaft?
Which one is more reliable and what other support mods do I need for those camshaft?
Where can I pick up those GM peformance stage 3 cams? I love the sound of it when it idles.
Thanks for the info.
I have been eyeing for a 06 Z06 for a while now and decided to pick one up in the next few months.
I also been looking at a lot of aftermarket parts for this car.
I want to ask is, how does the GM performance stage 3 cams compare to LG Motorsports camshaft?
Which one is more reliable and what other support mods do I need for those camshaft?
Where can I pick up those GM peformance stage 3 cams? I love the sound of it when it idles.
Thanks for the info.
#6
Burning Brakes
The Stage 3 is a little 'hairy' for the street. A TON of overlap, about 40degrees if I remember, and you will lose a 'bit' on the bottom. It loves to be over 3000rpm. It pulls like a son of a gun from there on up. It sounds fantastic @ idle.
(Note: my car came with this cam in it when I received it)
This is not my daily driver.
If I had to do it over again I would choose another cam. I would go with one that is a little 'milder' or at least on a wider lobe separation w/less overlap. I have also thought of eventually swapping it out for another grind.
Just my 2 cents. Hope I helped ya out!
Scott
(Note: my car came with this cam in it when I received it)
This is not my daily driver.
If I had to do it over again I would choose another cam. I would go with one that is a little 'milder' or at least on a wider lobe separation w/less overlap. I have also thought of eventually swapping it out for another grind.
Just my 2 cents. Hope I helped ya out!
Scott
#7
The Stage 3 is a little 'hairy' for the street. A TON of overlap, about 40degrees if I remember, and you will lose a 'bit' on the bottom. It loves to be over 3000rpm. It pulls like a son of a gun from there on up. It sounds fantastic @ idle.
(Note: my car came with this cam in it when I received it)
This is not my daily driver.
If I had to do it over again I would choose another cam. I would go with one that is a little 'milder' or at least on a wider lobe separation w/less overlap. I have also thought of eventually swapping it out for another grind.
Just my 2 cents. Hope I helped ya out!
Scott
(Note: my car came with this cam in it when I received it)
This is not my daily driver.
If I had to do it over again I would choose another cam. I would go with one that is a little 'milder' or at least on a wider lobe separation w/less overlap. I have also thought of eventually swapping it out for another grind.
Just my 2 cents. Hope I helped ya out!
Scott
#8
Drifting
Something you need to think about. When you just do a cam and springs; you'll still have the two piece hollow sodium filled exhaust valves.
Now with stock spring pressures at 90 lbs on the seat and stock cam ramps your fine. But with spring pressures at 130-140 lbs closed and aggressive ramps on the cam it puts a tremendous strain on those two piece valves as they slam shut, and they do fail from time to time. BY-BY motor. I've modded all my LS motors since 1999 and they all had the standard one piece steel valve, no worries. Even my stroker LS3 motor in my C6 had the one piece valve. When I do my cam in my 09 Z06, even though I don't want to I'm going to bite the bullitt and pull the heads do a mild port job on the exhaust side and replace the exhaust valves with one piece stainless steel valves. It cost more but I'ed rather be safe than sorry. The cost of a new motor is a hell of a lot more than the cost of pulling the heads. It's crap shoot and you don't want to come up snake eyes a few thousand miles down the road. Food for thought.
andreas g.
Now with stock spring pressures at 90 lbs on the seat and stock cam ramps your fine. But with spring pressures at 130-140 lbs closed and aggressive ramps on the cam it puts a tremendous strain on those two piece valves as they slam shut, and they do fail from time to time. BY-BY motor. I've modded all my LS motors since 1999 and they all had the standard one piece steel valve, no worries. Even my stroker LS3 motor in my C6 had the one piece valve. When I do my cam in my 09 Z06, even though I don't want to I'm going to bite the bullitt and pull the heads do a mild port job on the exhaust side and replace the exhaust valves with one piece stainless steel valves. It cost more but I'ed rather be safe than sorry. The cost of a new motor is a hell of a lot more than the cost of pulling the heads. It's crap shoot and you don't want to come up snake eyes a few thousand miles down the road. Food for thought.
andreas g.
#9
Burning Brakes
Something you need to think about. When you just do a cam and springs; you'll still have the two piece hollow sodium filled exhaust valves.
Now with stock spring pressures at 90 lbs on the seat and stock cam ramps your fine. But with spring pressures at 130-140 lbs closed and aggressive ramps on the cam it puts a tremendous strain on those two piece valves as they slam shut, and they do fail from time to time. BY-BY motor. I've modded all my LS motors since 1999 and they all had the standard one piece steel valve, no worries. Even my stroker LS3 motor in my C6 had the one piece valve. When I do my cam in my 09 Z06, even though I don't want to I'm going to bite the bullitt and pull the heads do a mild port job on the exhaust side and replace the exhaust valves with one piece stainless steel valves. It cost more but I'ed rather be safe than sorry. The cost of a new motor is a hell of a lot more than the cost of pulling the heads. It's crap shoot and you don't want to come up snake eyes a few thousand miles down the road. Food for thought.
andreas g.
Now with stock spring pressures at 90 lbs on the seat and stock cam ramps your fine. But with spring pressures at 130-140 lbs closed and aggressive ramps on the cam it puts a tremendous strain on those two piece valves as they slam shut, and they do fail from time to time. BY-BY motor. I've modded all my LS motors since 1999 and they all had the standard one piece steel valve, no worries. Even my stroker LS3 motor in my C6 had the one piece valve. When I do my cam in my 09 Z06, even though I don't want to I'm going to bite the bullitt and pull the heads do a mild port job on the exhaust side and replace the exhaust valves with one piece stainless steel valves. It cost more but I'ed rather be safe than sorry. The cost of a new motor is a hell of a lot more than the cost of pulling the heads. It's crap shoot and you don't want to come up snake eyes a few thousand miles down the road. Food for thought.
andreas g.
Check this out, it will help you out with facts/figures: http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e...no_charts.html
Hope we are helping you out with this major decision! Keep us posted and keep asking questions!
#10
Melting Slicks
The battle of the advertising vendors and all their "convincing" words COMING SOON.
And for the OP. Look up
Lingenfelter GT-19 or GT-21. Or just google it.
And for the OP. Look up
Lingenfelter GT-19 or GT-21. Or just google it.
#11
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Jan 2003
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 8,596
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i am interested in doing a cam swap in my car, and was wondering which cam would better suite me. I drive the car a couple times a week and want some more midrange and topend but i dont want to lose too much bottom end power at the same time. I also want good drivability but i hear that the GM stage 3 cam gets a little rough. I havent heard many reviews about the stage 2 cam and dont really know much about cam specs to figure out what it would be like. any help would be appreciated, thanks!
#12
The GM Stage three cam will buck your teeth out Why not try Ragin Racings Lethal cam, I have got as much as 560 to the wheels with that little cam, it sounds nice, drives nice and will give out enough power for most mortal men, for the others that want more there are turbochargers and superchargers
Great top end pull.
#13
thanks for all the help guys. By looking at the cam specs on the stage 2, do you all think that people would be able to hear it with the exhaust butterfly valves closed and stock cats? I wouldnt mind keepin stuff a little quiet and stealth, but then open the valves up when i want and let it sound nice with the exhaust mod.