[Z06] What's a "better" set of longtubes...
02-01-2016, 10:07 AM
#21
Former Vendor
Member Since: Aug 2005
Location: Lewisville TX
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
1. It maintains a smooth inside flow, with no interruption like you would have on a ball and socket or similar design
2. There is no loss in clearance with a slip fit. When you have a flange or a ball and socket design that material looses clearance around the frame and ground.
The $11k set that was on the ALMS car was slip too. So it isn't a cost thing.
Last edited by Anthony @ LGMotorsports; 02-01-2016 at 10:07 AM.
02-01-2016, 12:31 PM
#22
Melting Slicks
The slip fit is there for a few reasons.
1. It maintains a smooth inside flow, with no interruption like you would have on a ball and socket or similar design
2. There is no loss in clearance with a slip fit. When you have a flange or a ball and socket design that material looses clearance around the frame and ground.
The $11k set that was on the ALMS car was slip too. So it isn't a cost thing.
1. It maintains a smooth inside flow, with no interruption like you would have on a ball and socket or similar design
2. There is no loss in clearance with a slip fit. When you have a flange or a ball and socket design that material looses clearance around the frame and ground.
The $11k set that was on the ALMS car was slip too. So it isn't a cost thing.
02-01-2016, 01:07 PM
#23
Former Vendor
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
Thanks for the reply. I know you guys must have your reasons for using them. I just prefer being able to disconnect the longtubes from the x-pipe without needing to loosen the entire exhaust system. Plus I tend to have to use some WD40 or silicon spray to dissemble or re-assemble the slip-fits if it hasn't been touched in while. I also find that the ball and socket type connection keep the exhaust system from rotating and moving around over time (especially on cars with an aggresive cam) causing the system to touch the tunnel or causing one of the axle backs to become uneven with the other. Just my experiences. I still recommend the Super Pros or ARHs to anyone who asks. Usually they go with what is on sale
One trick I learned on the race cars if you are using a slip fit design and are going to be taking it on and off the car a lot. Copper anti seize works wonders. I don't know if I would use it on every car, but for sure those coming on and off the car a lot.....like a race/track car.
http://www.mscdirect.com/product/det...S_010=00263210
02-01-2016, 01:12 PM
#24
Melting Slicks
One trick I learned on the race cars if you are using a slip fit design and are going to be taking it on and off the car a lot. Copper anti seize works wonders. I don't know if I would use it on every car, but for sure those coming on and off the car a lot.....like a race/track car.
http://www.mscdirect.com/product/det...S_010=00263210
http://www.mscdirect.com/product/det...S_010=00263210
Thanks
02-02-2016, 02:41 AM
#25
Melting Slicks
ARP header studs are worth EVERY SINGLE PENNY! Never do headers on any Z without them!!
02-02-2016, 07:31 AM
#26
I have 1 3/4 LG Super Pros and installed them in my garage with jack stands, I wouldn't call the install difficult or say they didn't fit well.
I'd like to try some 1 7/8 ARH (because of the longer primaries then the LG 1 7/8) but I'm not entirely convinced that I'd pick up significant gains and that I'd loose a lot more torque vs the LG super pros on the car now which have been flawless for 10 years.
I'd also like to try some stepped headers but my wallet doesn't want to be a guinea pig.
I'd like to try some 1 7/8 ARH (because of the longer primaries then the LG 1 7/8) but I'm not entirely convinced that I'd pick up significant gains and that I'd loose a lot more torque vs the LG super pros on the car now which have been flawless for 10 years.
I'd also like to try some stepped headers but my wallet doesn't want to be a guinea pig.
02-02-2016, 07:38 AM
#27
Melting Slicks
Step header is when the tubes change size usually going upward from say 1 3/4 to 1 7/8 on their way to the collector. They are usually more expensve as more labor and welding are involved.
02-06-2016, 03:35 PM
#28
Melting Slicks
uhh.. 1 7/8 headers on an LS7 7.0 will make more power/torque everywhere than a 1 3/4 C5 346 ci. header. 1 7/8" is the starting size for a C6Z. Didn't know LG made a 1 3/4" LS7 header.. that seems restrictive.
02-06-2016, 04:20 PM
#29
Racer
02-06-2016, 10:11 PM
#32
Burning Brakes
02-07-2016, 12:20 AM
#33
Team Owner
ARP hardware when doing an R&R on your heads as well.
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REDZED2 (02-08-2016)
02-07-2016, 08:53 AM
#34
Safety Car
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I like Stage 8 locking header bolts. I've been using them for the last 30 years on every performance vehicle I've owned and never have had a single header flange exhaust leak.
02-07-2016, 01:42 PM
#35
Melting Slicks
D
Last edited by REDZED2; 02-07-2016 at 01:44 PM.
02-07-2016, 01:49 PM
#36
Good for you..yeah all stock they may be ok.. i have also seen guys with 2" with bolt ons gain 35 rwhp.. apples to bananas. Lol.. I know a guy that trapped 129 bone stock in his 06 z.. 99% of header companies start at 1 7/ 8" for a C6 Z06 ls7 with 427 cubes... but to each his own man.
D
D
02-08-2016, 01:09 PM
#38
Racer
02-08-2016, 01:23 PM
#39
Team Owner
02-08-2016, 01:51 PM
#40