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[Z06] School me on octane boosters.....

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Old 05-23-2016, 08:39 AM
  #81  
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Are you going to try to find a timing map that doesn't produce KR? Or is the goal simply to put a stock map back in it?
Old 05-23-2016, 08:56 AM
  #82  
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At the end of the day, I'll build the table to give the car what it wants, with the best product, then will most likely try meth injection.

I'm just experimenting with the different booster products right now.

I should have filtered out burst knock on the histogram I posted a pic of earlier, because that is what you see being logged as KR... I've been fighting with HPT version 3. Most of my configs, histo's, and maths are goofy, and I'm working through all that as I find them.
Old 05-23-2016, 11:11 AM
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if you had good affect with just Royal Purple mixed the way you did, then water meth is really going to surprised you. Just a word of caution--which you probably don't need, don't go over a 50/50 blend. The reason I say that is I think you have a curious mind ---like me, and you may want to play lol! Don't.
Mix the w/m yourself --much cheaper, you know what you have and buy a good kit. Don't buy a kit from a company that just puts stuff together and sells the package. Make sure the pump puts out enough pressure to get full atomization. Seriously.... read the site I threw up in an earlier post. There are a lot of differences in w/m systems being offered.
Also make sure you run the engine a little without the system on before you turn it off. I have seen a couple of guys running 100% methanol with a w/m injection system, at the strip. They Turned off the engine before the system turned off, then when they cranked it again it caught on invisible fire because the meth had pooled.
With a street system you will not have that problem, but just for awareness sake I mention it. Some others reading this thread may not be aware.
I have ran w/m on a n/a engine ( bmws with direct injection woes) and a supercharged rotary engine ( multiple nozzle placement). Road raced both.
It simply works and it is nice to come in from a session at Road Atlanta on a 100F day in July an have ice on my intake. People walked away shaking their heads lol.

Last edited by olddragger; 05-23-2016 at 11:13 AM.
Old 05-23-2016, 11:47 AM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by Michael_D
At the end of the day, I'll build the table to give the car what it wants, with the best product, then will most likely try meth injection.

I'm just experimenting with the different booster products right now.

I should have filtered out burst knock on the histogram I posted a pic of earlier, because that is what you see being logged as KR... I've been fighting with HPT version 3. Most of my configs, histo's, and maths are goofy, and I'm working through all that as I find them.
Steady state dyno testing seems like the only way to really draw any conclusions on which one is best. Too many things can cause knock. Especially if you get knock with your greatly retarded maps on 90 octane.
Old 05-23-2016, 01:07 PM
  #85  
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If I had one, I'd be using it. What I do have, is a mountain with a 4% grade on a 4 mile long stretch that I can put a fairly good load on the engine, and a nice 15 mile, mellow stretch of road just above sea level between my house and the mountain. ... Not as good as the use of a load cell dyno, but probably the best conditions one could get for street tuning.

There is nothing all that scientific about the testing I'm doing. I'm looking for large deviations, and doing whatever I can to make each "test" I do consistent with the others.

I'm not all that excited about using octane boosters on a regular basis. My hope is that the meth injection will yield comperable results.
Old 05-23-2016, 07:08 PM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by SlowBusa08
Dumb question. Do you change your spark tables to add spark when running an additive, then retune when you aren't? Or do you just let the ecm see the knock and pull timing?
Neither. Set it for no knock without and then run it for safety, not added power.
Old 05-24-2016, 10:53 PM
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I guess I was thinking you run as much timing as possible before it knocks. an added octane booster could mask low octane fuel such as Michael's situation. So you could push the timing past what you could normally run on available pump gas, but if you run without the additive it'll knock all over the place.

Not sure if my rambling makes sense?


Michael, what's you affinity towards not wanting to run E85? personal thing or are you just wanting to keep it simple?
Old 05-24-2016, 11:01 PM
  #88  
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Originally Posted by SlowBusa08
I guess I was thinking you run as much timing as possible before it knocks. an added octane booster could mask low octane fuel such as Michael's situation. So you could push the timing past what you could normally run on available pump gas, but if you run without the additive it'll knock all over the place.

Not sure if my rambling makes sense?


Michael, what's you affinity towards not wanting to run E85? personal thing or are you just wanting to keep it simple?
My guess would be availability for him in Alaska...are there any E85 stations there?
Old 05-24-2016, 11:08 PM
  #89  
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Originally Posted by SlowBusa08
I guess I was thinking you run as much timing as possible before it knocks. an added octane booster could mask low octane fuel such as Michael's situation. So you could push the timing past what you could normally run on available pump gas, but if you run without the additive it'll knock all over the place.

Not sure if my rambling makes sense?

Michael, what's you affinity towards not wanting to run E85? personal thing or are you just wanting to keep it simple?
E85 is not available where I live.

When you have crap gas, you adjust your spark tables to stay away from detonation. There are a few tricks one can do with PE engagement, target AFR, and transient fueling, but after you've exhausted all the tricks in your bag, you have no other choice but to pull spark. You keep pulling it in the problem areas till you can no longer log knock retard. That's detonation, not pre-ignition. Pre-ignition is another problem.

So ya, the booster additives just slow down the burn a bit, so you can then add spark.

Most folks focus on WOT / Peak Torque / Peak HP spark, and that's all you ever hear guys talk about. Kinda like posting dyno sheets..... Yeah, look at me, my engine makes xxx HP! Blah, blah, blah......what makes a car fun to drive, is how it responds to that go peddle. If you have to retard spark all over the damn place, it makes the car feel sluggish and unresponsive. It only takes four/five degrees to make a big difference is throttle response.

I'm actually having a lot of fun driving the car right now....LOTS of fun. Unfortunately, I don't think running this type of additive is going to do me any favors in the long run, so I will more than likely give meth injection a whirl. I'm studying up on that option now.
Old 05-25-2016, 07:23 AM
  #90  
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You will notice during your research one thing. Response time. That is
The time it takes from activation to when it actually makes it to the charge.
Have fun with that
Old 05-25-2016, 08:42 AM
  #91  
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Yes, I did see that.... I did read the article you linked to, and it was pretty anticlimactic. All that talk about how great their stinking pump is, then to finish with "we don't do N/A". I'm not all that inclined to invent a system and come up with all kinds of switches and interfaces to make their pump work. So now I'm looking into the systems from Alky Control.
Old 05-25-2016, 01:03 PM
  #92  
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understand--I didn't buy from them either but they do have a good bit of good advice concerning w/m.
don't let boosted engines versus n/a engines get in the way. It is all the same. Nozzle placement may be different--no difference in systems. its either a map or a maf signaled system....end of story.
I have used alky control and snows. Customer service at alky control was better. For transitions etc on the street the AC is better imho. You can fine tune it more.
Snows is good also but I relied on it mostly for road course playing and never in closed loop. Although you can.
Quality again imho was better with AC's.
Now what do you think--single nozzle set up or 8?
Tuning will be fun Not joking. I think you like doing the details in things , as everyone should, and tuning with a water meth system can be fairly simple to very very complex.
I had to play with a staged intake and staged injectors on a SC RX8 engine after I added the w/m. That was fun. I never relized I knew so many cuss words.

Last edited by olddragger; 05-25-2016 at 01:08 PM.
Old 05-26-2016, 06:31 PM
  #93  
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Originally Posted by olddragger
understand--I didn't buy from them either but they do have a good bit of good advice concerning w/m.
don't let boosted engines versus n/a engines get in the way. It is all the same. Nozzle placement may be different--no difference in systems. its either a map or a maf signaled system....end of story.
I have used alky control and snows. Customer service at alky control was better. For transitions etc on the street the AC is better imho. You can fine tune it more.
Snows is good also but I relied on it mostly for road course playing and never in closed loop. Although you can.
Quality again imho was better with AC's.
Now what do you think--single nozzle set up or 8?
Tuning will be fun Not joking. I think you like doing the details in things , as everyone should, and tuning with a water meth system can be fairly simple to very very complex.
I had to play with a staged intake and staged injectors on a SC RX8 engine after I added the w/m. That was fun. I never relized I knew so many cuss words.
OT, but did you hear Mazda hasn't given up on the Wankel yet - they are working on a new 3 rotor - maybe it will see the light of day, maybe not..

Last edited by Dan_the_C5_Man; 05-26-2016 at 10:31 PM.
Old 05-27-2016, 07:14 AM
  #94  
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Oh I know! The Rx vision will happen. Whether 3 rotor or 2 rotor turbo ...doesn't matter.
They are wicked engines. My old one is still being raced.
If there is ever a car I would want over the z, it may be that one.
Sorry MD for hijacking.
Old 06-01-2016, 01:11 PM
  #95  
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Ok whats the latest?
Old 06-01-2016, 01:31 PM
  #96  
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Originally Posted by olddragger
Ok whats the latest?
I'm running through a tank with the NOS brand booster. Too soon to tell yet, but it does not appear to work as well as the RP brand.

Still thinking about how to control MI.
Old 06-03-2016, 12:01 PM
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Sorry "MI" ?
Going to try Torco at some point?

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Old 06-03-2016, 01:14 PM
  #98  
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Hey, this is 2016. We speak in acronyms and emoticons this day and age. Keep up.

Meth Injection

Yes, I'll try Torco next. After that tank of fuel I'll try the Klotz.

Between the little aggravations that keep me from driving the car - Work, road construction, and rain..... I do not get much seat time.

Julio (Alky Control) suggests I use the MAF output for my application. Set a frequency to start the spray, and it will progressively increase as MAF Hz increases. I dunno..... I think throttle position would be a better way to control when it sprays.
Old 06-03-2016, 01:37 PM
  #99  
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Originally Posted by Michael_D
Hey, this is 2016. We speak in acronyms and emoticons this day and age. Keep up.

Meth Injection

Yes, I'll try Torco next. After that tank of fuel I'll try the Klotz.

Between the little aggravations that keep me from driving the car - Work, road construction, and rain..... I do not get much seat time.

Julio (Alky Control) suggests I use the MAF output for my application. Set a frequency to start the spray, and it will progressively increase as MAF Hz increases. I dunno..... I think throttle position would be a better way to control when it sprays.
I was going to do MAF if I went this route. Better for NA inmo. Why do u think throttle position would be better? Maf should work just fine.
Old 06-03-2016, 02:00 PM
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I think throttle position would be better for transient periods. MAF better for WOT after the AFR set point for PE is met. PE enrichment always lags a bit, and that is when I see KR. For example, if I am putting along at 50 mph, and drop down to second gear and hammer the go peddle, I will almost always get KR, even with burst knock enabled.... Only way to get away from this is to drastically reduce spark in these areas of the spark table. If I could use the TPS output to trigger the spray, it would (I think) start the spray earlier. When I review my logs during these downshift / hammer throttle periods, MAF Hz increase is a bit lazy.

MAP might also be a better choice than MAF, because it is more predictive, but it would not be as good as MAF for a progressive change in spray time/amount. So maybe.... Use MAP to trigger the spray, and use MAF to modulate. Not sure if that's even possible though. Does that make any sense?


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