[Z06] Thinking of doing it on my own
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thinking of doing it on my own
How involved is it to do the tune-up on your own? My Z is over 100,000 miles. Never liked placing my car into the hands of someone else to work on it. I'm going to be doing the oil change on my own, and was thinking of doing the tune-up as well. I just ordered NGK plugs, thinking of ordering wires too. Is this something I should do on my own? Is there anything else I need to consider other than changing plugs and wires? Someone told me I needed a computer module to calibrate sensors after the tune-up. Is that true?
#2
Melting Slicks
pull plug wire, remove plugs, check gap on new plugs(usually they are good from the factory, but I always check them), install new plugs and torque(think its 18 ft. lbs.), push plug wire on. You dont want to over torque them.
You will want a spark plug socket and a gap tool which are probably 10 bucks combined at AutoZone or the like.
You will want a spark plug socket and a gap tool which are probably 10 bucks combined at AutoZone or the like.
#5
Le Mans Master
Yes, replace the wires (at 100k they are cooked and / or may not survive the uninstall / reinstall - you don't want to experience an emergency parts store run in the middle of the job).
Use dielectric ("tune up") grease on the inside of the plug boots on both the spark and coil side, and use anti-seize on the plug threads.
You will curse a bit getting the old wires off (a pair of spark plug wire pliers are worth their weight in gold), and you'll need the right socket and extension to get the plugs in and out (and ALWAYS start them by hand), but in the end you'll have the satisfaction of a job well done.
Also take this opportunity to check the various hoses and PCV piping for cracks and other damage.
Good luck and have fun.
Use dielectric ("tune up") grease on the inside of the plug boots on both the spark and coil side, and use anti-seize on the plug threads.
You will curse a bit getting the old wires off (a pair of spark plug wire pliers are worth their weight in gold), and you'll need the right socket and extension to get the plugs in and out (and ALWAYS start them by hand), but in the end you'll have the satisfaction of a job well done.
Also take this opportunity to check the various hoses and PCV piping for cracks and other damage.
Good luck and have fun.
#6
Race Director
pull plug wire, remove plugs, check gap on new plugs(usually they are good from the factory, but I always check them), install new plugs and torque(think its 18 ft. lbs.), push plug wire on. You dont want to over torque them.
You will want a spark plug socket and a gap tool which are probably 10 bucks combined at AutoZone or the like.
You will want a spark plug socket and a gap tool which are probably 10 bucks combined at AutoZone or the like.
You could consider doing other fluids like coolant, tranny and dif and greasing the two ZERC fittings, one each on the rear suspension toe link out near the wheels. There are DIY on the sticky page at the top of this forum for tranny and dif and there was recently a thread on doing coolant (use the full strength GM coolant as it says and then add water to reach 50-50, not use the pre-mix). If the brake fluid has not been changed, consider that. If any of that seems more than you want to take on and you just do some spirited highway driving, get the coolant done (recommended every 5 years).
None of this work is really involved and the DIY posts are very helpful. Enjoy the work and enjoy the Z06, fine car.
Last edited by AzDave47; 05-30-2016 at 01:04 AM.
#7
Instructor
Thread Starter
I already did the coolant last year. Bought NGK wires since I bought NGK plugs. Bought Castrol EDGE SAE 5W-30. Heard it was better than Mobil 1. Will look into brake, tranny, and diff fluid. I've never taken the car to the track. I just drive it to work and back.
#9
#10
Melting Slicks
why replace something that is not broken? after 40 plus years of twisting wrenches for a living , most common plug wire problems i have seen are physically damaged wires, rubbing on something, burnt on manifold or header, corroded terminals , broken wire from not breaking plug boot loose before trying to remove. if they are working there is no reason to replace them. factory wires a very good, very short and last long time.
#11
why replace something that is not broken? after 40 plus years of twisting wrenches for a living , most common plug wire problems i have seen are physically damaged wires, rubbing on something, burnt on manifold or header, corroded terminals , broken wire from not breaking plug boot loose before trying to remove. if they are working there is no reason to replace them. factory wires a very good, very short and last long time.
Because they are made from rubber and over time rubber gets brittle and cracks. There is nothing wrong with re-using the original wires if they are still in good condition. If I were doing a 100k mile service, I'd replace the wires.
#12
Le Mans Master
why replace something that is not broken? after 40 plus years of twisting wrenches for a living , most common plug wire problems i have seen are physically damaged wires, rubbing on something, burnt on manifold or header, corroded terminals , broken wire from not breaking plug boot loose before trying to remove. if they are working there is no reason to replace them. factory wires a very good, very short and last long time.
Modern factory ignition wires are made from fibers / carbon filaments that DO have a "service life". The change was driven by the need to suppress EMI / noise rejection so as not to interfere with modern computers and ignition systems. http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/truth.htm
Sometimes things do change in 40 years..
Last edited by Dan_the_C5_Man; 06-01-2016 at 05:33 PM.
#13
Safety Car
why replace something that is not broken? after 40 plus years of twisting wrenches for a living , most common plug wire problems i have seen are physically damaged wires, rubbing on something, burnt on manifold or header, corroded terminals , broken wire from not breaking plug boot loose before trying to remove. if they are working there is no reason to replace them. factory wires a very good, very short and last long time.
@OP - My MSD wires click twice when you push them on the coil and once on the plug. I can't recall if the factory ones do (they likely do) but you might verify it on a coil that's easy to reach when you're putting it back together.
#14
Le Mans Master
I agree with "if its not broke, don't fix it" theory. If the motor runs good on all 8 cylinders (not missing), why replace the plugs or wires. These engines or not like to ones made in the 60's or 70's. I had a 1995 Chevy truck with 150,000 miles on it with original plugs and wires and it ran fine when I traded it in. Change the oil and drive it. My .02
#15
Instructor
Thread Starter
In regards to the tranny fluid, I understand that it's GM 88861800. I heard of people talking about Amsoil and Royal Purple at Dexron III. However, those fluids are found at the high performance shops, and there's non near me. I have never raced the car (officially), so I'm not looking for a track ready fluid (and if I ever were to go to the track, I'd probably change out the tranny fluid that day). I'm stuck with Autozone as my source for automotive material. I saw on another post about Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF being used, but that was on a C5 Z06. Autozone has that. Would it work?
#17
Instructor
Thread Starter
It would've taken too long. I thought Autozone had AMSoil and Royal Purple. However, I found out from another source that Mobil 1 would be fine (http://www.z06vette.com/forums/f62/t...125150/#/enter).
The following users liked this post:
jp_tt_awd (06-02-2016)
#18
Burning Brakes
It would've taken too long. I thought Autozone had AMSoil and Royal Purple. However, I found out from another source that Mobil 1 would be fine (http://www.z06vette.com/forums/f62/t...125150/#/enter).
-jp
#19
Race Director
The GM OEM fluids are very good, even for track work. In an all-out track only car I might go with different fluids but otherwise use the GM fluids.
#20
Le Mans Master
How involved is it to do the tune-up on your own? My Z is over 100,000 miles. Never liked placing my car into the hands of someone else to work on it. I'm going to be doing the oil change on my own, and was thinking of doing the tune-up as well. I just ordered NGK plugs, thinking of ordering wires too. Is this something I should do on my own? Is there anything else I need to consider other than changing plugs and wires? Someone told me I needed a computer module to calibrate sensors after the tune-up. Is that true?
If your car has 100k I recommend the following:
Replace all coils, plug wires and plugs.
Replace fuel filter.
If you don't recall last time you had fluids flushed, I would do antifreeze, brake fluid, clutch fluid, transmission fluid and of course oil.
And get valve play checked.
That's about all these cars need.
Then you should be good to go another 100k,