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[Z06] Thinking of doing it on my own

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Old 05-29-2016, 09:46 PM
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dperlich
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Default Thinking of doing it on my own

How involved is it to do the tune-up on your own? My Z is over 100,000 miles. Never liked placing my car into the hands of someone else to work on it. I'm going to be doing the oil change on my own, and was thinking of doing the tune-up as well. I just ordered NGK plugs, thinking of ordering wires too. Is this something I should do on my own? Is there anything else I need to consider other than changing plugs and wires? Someone told me I needed a computer module to calibrate sensors after the tune-up. Is that true?
Old 05-29-2016, 10:03 PM
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rjacobs
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pull plug wire, remove plugs, check gap on new plugs(usually they are good from the factory, but I always check them), install new plugs and torque(think its 18 ft. lbs.), push plug wire on. You dont want to over torque them.

You will want a spark plug socket and a gap tool which are probably 10 bucks combined at AutoZone or the like.
Old 05-29-2016, 11:29 PM
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dperlich
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Thanks!
Old 05-29-2016, 11:44 PM
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dperlich
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Should I replace the wires, or are they pretty good to keep until the next tune-up?
Old 05-30-2016, 12:01 AM
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Dan_the_C5_Man
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Yes, replace the wires (at 100k they are cooked and / or may not survive the uninstall / reinstall - you don't want to experience an emergency parts store run in the middle of the job).

Use dielectric ("tune up") grease on the inside of the plug boots on both the spark and coil side, and use anti-seize on the plug threads.

You will curse a bit getting the old wires off (a pair of spark plug wire pliers are worth their weight in gold), and you'll need the right socket and extension to get the plugs in and out (and ALWAYS start them by hand), but in the end you'll have the satisfaction of a job well done.

Also take this opportunity to check the various hoses and PCV piping for cracks and other damage.

Good luck and have fun.
Old 05-30-2016, 01:03 AM
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AzDave47
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Originally Posted by rjacobs
pull plug wire, remove plugs, check gap on new plugs(usually they are good from the factory, but I always check them), install new plugs and torque(think its 18 ft. lbs.), push plug wire on. You dont want to over torque them.

You will want a spark plug socket and a gap tool which are probably 10 bucks combined at AutoZone or the like.
Spark plug torque is 11 lb-ft. The OEM wires are top quality so if you want to replace, use those. Also the OEM Delco spark plugs are good for the stock engines as are all the OEM fluids for the work suggested below although better brake fluids are available, see: https://www.lelandwest.com/brake-flu...ow=1&SF=4&ST=2

You could consider doing other fluids like coolant, tranny and dif and greasing the two ZERC fittings, one each on the rear suspension toe link out near the wheels. There are DIY on the sticky page at the top of this forum for tranny and dif and there was recently a thread on doing coolant (use the full strength GM coolant as it says and then add water to reach 50-50, not use the pre-mix). If the brake fluid has not been changed, consider that. If any of that seems more than you want to take on and you just do some spirited highway driving, get the coolant done (recommended every 5 years).

None of this work is really involved and the DIY posts are very helpful. Enjoy the work and enjoy the Z06, fine car.

Last edited by AzDave47; 05-30-2016 at 01:04 AM.
Old 05-30-2016, 03:37 AM
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dperlich
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I already did the coolant last year. Bought NGK wires since I bought NGK plugs. Bought Castrol EDGE SAE 5W-30. Heard it was better than Mobil 1. Will look into brake, tranny, and diff fluid. I've never taken the car to the track. I just drive it to work and back.
Old 06-01-2016, 02:56 PM
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RFZ
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waste of money replacing plug wires. take them back for refund.
Old 06-01-2016, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by RFZ
waste of money replacing plug wires. take them back for refund.
After almost 10 years of service and 100k miles, I'd replace the plug wires.

As stated above, the work you mentioned is super easy. Good luck, lots of people here to help if you run into any issues.
Old 06-01-2016, 03:36 PM
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RFZ
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Originally Posted by 08mojo
After almost 10 years of service and 100k miles, I'd replace the plug wires.

As stated above, the work you mentioned is super easy. Good luck, lots of people here to help if you run into any issues.
why replace something that is not broken? after 40 plus years of twisting wrenches for a living , most common plug wire problems i have seen are physically damaged wires, rubbing on something, burnt on manifold or header, corroded terminals , broken wire from not breaking plug boot loose before trying to remove. if they are working there is no reason to replace them. factory wires a very good, very short and last long time.
Old 06-01-2016, 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by RFZ
why replace something that is not broken? after 40 plus years of twisting wrenches for a living , most common plug wire problems i have seen are physically damaged wires, rubbing on something, burnt on manifold or header, corroded terminals , broken wire from not breaking plug boot loose before trying to remove. if they are working there is no reason to replace them. factory wires a very good, very short and last long time.

Because they are made from rubber and over time rubber gets brittle and cracks. There is nothing wrong with re-using the original wires if they are still in good condition. If I were doing a 100k mile service, I'd replace the wires.
Old 06-01-2016, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by RFZ
why replace something that is not broken? after 40 plus years of twisting wrenches for a living , most common plug wire problems i have seen are physically damaged wires, rubbing on something, burnt on manifold or header, corroded terminals , broken wire from not breaking plug boot loose before trying to remove. if they are working there is no reason to replace them. factory wires a very good, very short and last long time.
40 years ago (maybe) spark plug wires were made from copper or a mix of "traditional" solid-core wire material.

Modern factory ignition wires are made from fibers / carbon filaments that DO have a "service life". The change was driven by the need to suppress EMI / noise rejection so as not to interfere with modern computers and ignition systems. http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/truth.htm

Sometimes things do change in 40 years..

Last edited by Dan_the_C5_Man; 06-01-2016 at 05:33 PM.
Old 06-01-2016, 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by RFZ
why replace something that is not broken? after 40 plus years of twisting wrenches for a living , most common plug wire problems i have seen are physically damaged wires, rubbing on something, burnt on manifold or header, corroded terminals , broken wire from not breaking plug boot loose before trying to remove. if they are working there is no reason to replace them. factory wires a very good, very short and last long time.
I've pulled multiple LSx wires apart trying to remove them (CAREFULLY) from the plug. If you're picky about what parts you'd replace them with, I'd just go ahead and replace them. Otherwise, as someone else mentioned, you might be making a parts store run and stuck with whatever you can get. With that said... I wouldn't replace them if you didn't have another reason to remove them (like for plugs past their intended service life).

@OP - My MSD wires click twice when you push them on the coil and once on the plug. I can't recall if the factory ones do (they likely do) but you might verify it on a coil that's easy to reach when you're putting it back together.
Old 06-01-2016, 10:09 PM
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I agree with "if its not broke, don't fix it" theory. If the motor runs good on all 8 cylinders (not missing), why replace the plugs or wires. These engines or not like to ones made in the 60's or 70's. I had a 1995 Chevy truck with 150,000 miles on it with original plugs and wires and it ran fine when I traded it in. Change the oil and drive it. My .02
Old 06-02-2016, 02:10 AM
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In regards to the tranny fluid, I understand that it's GM 88861800. I heard of people talking about Amsoil and Royal Purple at Dexron III. However, those fluids are found at the high performance shops, and there's non near me. I have never raced the car (officially), so I'm not looking for a track ready fluid (and if I ever were to go to the track, I'd probably change out the tranny fluid that day). I'm stuck with Autozone as my source for automotive material. I saw on another post about Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF being used, but that was on a C5 Z06. Autozone has that. Would it work?
Old 06-02-2016, 07:17 AM
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Why not order the parts/fluid online?
Old 06-02-2016, 08:55 AM
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dperlich
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It would've taken too long. I thought Autozone had AMSoil and Royal Purple. However, I found out from another source that Mobil 1 would be fine (http://www.z06vette.com/forums/f62/t...125150/#/enter).
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Old 06-02-2016, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by dperlich
It would've taken too long. I thought Autozone had AMSoil and Royal Purple. However, I found out from another source that Mobil 1 would be fine (http://www.z06vette.com/forums/f62/t...125150/#/enter).
I replaced my tranny fluid with Mobil 1 ATF a few years ago, no issues what so ever.

-jp
Old 06-02-2016, 09:55 AM
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The GM OEM fluids are very good, even for track work. In an all-out track only car I might go with different fluids but otherwise use the GM fluids.
Old 06-02-2016, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by dperlich
How involved is it to do the tune-up on your own? My Z is over 100,000 miles. Never liked placing my car into the hands of someone else to work on it. I'm going to be doing the oil change on my own, and was thinking of doing the tune-up as well. I just ordered NGK plugs, thinking of ordering wires too. Is this something I should do on my own? Is there anything else I need to consider other than changing plugs and wires? Someone told me I needed a computer module to calibrate sensors after the tune-up. Is that true?
Its easy.

If your car has 100k I recommend the following:

Replace all coils, plug wires and plugs.
Replace fuel filter.
If you don't recall last time you had fluids flushed, I would do antifreeze, brake fluid, clutch fluid, transmission fluid and of course oil.

And get valve play checked.

That's about all these cars need.

Then you should be good to go another 100k,


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