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High (to me) temps.

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Old 04-26-2015, 10:34 PM
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vettman96
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Default High (to me) temps.

My 14 NRB cpe, a6 runs at a consistent 220 degrees (water) and 200 degrees (oil) in 65 degree ambient outside temp.
This seems too hot to me, I have to run a frt plate, so I modified the aero panel to accept the plate with a smoked cover.
I suspect, and have removed the panel and plate to detail the temp changes.
I would rather not run the plate than change out the t-stat to a 160/170.
Frt plate be damned.
Old 04-26-2015, 10:38 PM
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Joy c7
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Same here 15 coupe 220 coolent 210 oil not worried. No plate Indiana.
Old 04-26-2015, 10:50 PM
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VETJAZZ
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Temps are normal.
Old 04-26-2015, 11:20 PM
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Steve_R
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Originally Posted by VETJAZZ
Temps are normal.
Yup. Those temps are normal and nothing to worry about.
Old 04-26-2015, 11:40 PM
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PGSJOE
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normal and optimal for modern engine.
Old 04-26-2015, 11:52 PM
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WelderGuy
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Originally Posted by PGSJOE
normal and optimal for modern engine.
Please tell that to the people running (and suggesting others run) the 160-degree thermostats.
Old 04-26-2015, 11:52 PM
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BIC
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Same temps here with no front plate.
Old 04-26-2015, 11:57 PM
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Joy c7
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Originally Posted by WelderGuy
Please tell that to the people running (and suggesting others run) the 160-degree thermostats.
Your right about that.
Old 04-27-2015, 02:36 AM
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PGSJOE
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They wont believe but here goes. It has to do with emissions, prolonged engine life and computer programming.
Lowest emissions at that heat range for acids in oil, moisture in crankase and CO2 emissions etc,
metal parts fully heat soaked expand to their correct sizes for bearing clearances and piston bore clearances resulting in minimal piston skirt and block bore wear for one thing and
finally the engine computer is programmed to run the engine richer at lower engine temps so simply installing a 160* or 180* thermostat may even trigger a CEL with engine in perpetual (closed loop) not at operating temp mode,,,as I understand and I am sure there are many more reasons not mentionied which I hope others will add.
Old 04-27-2015, 04:55 AM
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Jontall
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Don't change the thermostat...
Old 04-27-2015, 08:50 AM
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davekp78
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My car runs at 190 with oem stat. 220 seems high.
Old 04-27-2015, 09:06 AM
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Stingray Al
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How about adding RoyalPurple "Purple Ice"? Or redlines "wet water"??
Old 04-27-2015, 09:08 AM
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mapman
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Originally Posted by Joy c7
Same here 15 coupe 220 coolent 210 oil not worried. No plate Indiana.
Same here. Steady 220 on the guage. 2014 CG A6 coupe - no front plate. Around 20k miles no problems. All other C7 owners I've talked with have the same temps. Car runs great.
Old 04-27-2015, 09:14 AM
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JerryU
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Originally Posted by PGSJOE
They wont believe but here goes. It has to do with emissions, prolonged engine life and computer programming.
Lowest emissions at that heat range for acids in oil, moisture in crankase and CO2 emissions etc,
metal parts fully heat soaked expand to their correct sizes for bearing clearances and piston bore clearances resulting in minimal piston skirt and block bore wear for one thing and
finally the engine computer is programmed to run the engine richer at lower engine temps so simply installing a 160* or 180* thermostat may even trigger a CEL with engine in perpetual (closed loop) not at operating temp mode,,,as I understand and I am sure there are many more reasons not mentionied which I hope others will add.
with all you're comments. Unless you have a tune and are drag racing the 220 mine operates at is fine and as designed.
Had a Hypertech program in my S10 and used a 160 thermostat as they suggested along with the high test gas level tune. In the winter where it ran at 160 it tripped codes frequently and I had to reset them about once a month. On that iron block and heads V6 it did help throttle response significantly. Would not consider it for my C7 for the reasons you state.

Last edited by JerryU; 04-27-2015 at 09:18 AM.
Old 04-27-2015, 09:59 AM
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meyerweb
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You want your oil to get hot enough to boil off the water that condenses in it. 220 isn't high at all for coolant temp. If it didn't get above the boiling point (212F) we wouldn't need pressurized cooling systems.

As far as the thermostat, understand that sets the minimum operating temp for a fully warmed engine, not the maximum. If your engine runs at 220F with a 190 degree thermostat, it's not going to suddenly start running cooler with a 160 degree thermostat. Both 'stats are fully open at 220F. A cooler thermostat just means it will open faster, and your engine will take longer to get to normal operating temps. Not that those normal temps will be lower.
Old 04-27-2015, 11:07 AM
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millpond
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Looks like 220 on the analog gauge, but that is just the way the gauge is configured. Using the digital gauges mine runs at 204 for both coolant and oil when cruising.
Old 04-27-2015, 11:18 AM
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My oil temp gets up to around 228 when I'm driving it fairly spirited. How hot is too hot for the C7?

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Old 04-27-2015, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Algiers
My oil temp gets up to around 228 when I'm driving it fairly spirited. How hot is too hot for the C7?
with a good synthetic, such as mobil 1, oil temperature of up to 300 should not be a problem. At least in the short term, for example on a track.
Old 04-27-2015, 03:03 PM
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Sometimes, you have to read where the folks are really pushing their cars, and have them prepped somewhat to do so. I'd specifically read posts #32, 35 of RichieRichZ06 and #101 of Anthony@LGM who sez: "FYI...our endruance cars run 180-210 most of the time. In traffic or something like that you might see small periods of time in the 220-230 range but not for long.

The sprint setups, or in qualifying trim you might run 230-240 for a few laps with the grill taped but again that is for a qualifying setup not in race trim.

240-260 water temps on a production car is just stupid. "

from this thread: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...lant-temp.html
Old 04-27-2015, 05:11 PM
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EcoBrick Bob
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Originally Posted by meyerweb
You want your oil to get hot enough to boil off the water that condenses in it. 220 isn't high at all for coolant temp. If it didn't get above the boiling point (212F) we wouldn't need pressurized cooling systems.

As far as the thermostat, understand that sets the minimum operating temp for a fully warmed engine, not the maximum. If your engine runs at 220F with a 190 degree thermostat, it's not going to suddenly start running cooler with a 160 degree thermostat. Both 'stats are fully open at 220F. A cooler thermostat just means it will open faster, and your engine will take longer to get to normal operating temps. Not that those normal temps will be lower.

I am one of those idiots who is running a Lingenfelter 160 deg Thermostat. I have yet to see a cel in a couple months of mostly in town driving here in Naples. My water temps are ALWAYS in the 165-171 deg temp range ( on my DashHawk), unless I do a WOT run to say 80+ and even then, the temps are back to the lower range within 30 seconds. My oil temp when car is fully warmed up is 175 deg ( gauge by speedo). For comparison, a 160 deg Tstat in both of my G8 GT's gets me about a 15 deg drop to around 180 in similar summer conditions. However, my IAT (Intake Air Temps) are a minimum of 6 degrees above Ambient, and the Vette really seems to heat sink the CAI and intake manifold. Goes to 30 deg above ambient sitting at a long stoplight. My G8's are just the opposite. While they do heat sink, the IAT temp comes back down quickly to within a couple degrees of ambient, even at speeds as low as 40 mph.

While my 15' Z51 will see some cool/cold temps when I take it back to Iowa from 5-15 thru 10-15, it will be interesting to see if I get codes. Never have had a code on any other vehicle (many) with lower temp T-stat.

High engine temps are from what I understand desired by MFG for emissions, and no real other reason.


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