The following How-To covers the explanation of how to Remove/Replace/Install the Rear Sway Bar and includes specifications, schematics, etc.

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Great info and write up, thanks a bunch for taking the time. I've had other cars that were dramatically changed for the better by just a change of sway bars. If my AW ever gets here it will be on the list of mods..

 

This is great but I don't see any mention of the parking brake cable that looks to be in the way on my 2014.

 

Question about the torque specs for the end-link bolts. These appear to be torque-to-yield ( 44 lb-ft plus 30 degrees ). How necessary is a torque angle meter for fastening these? Can one just eyeball the 30 degrees, or approximate it with a higher torque value?

 

I really do not thing it is that critical. Those specs are for inexperienced people. As many swaybar installations I had done (many) I never even bothered to torque any bolts or end-links. I simply go by the "feel". Never had any issues.

Just last week finished installing the aFe bars on my C7, making it the 3rd swaybar variations.

 

Mind explaining the three, and your impressions of each? Thanks!

 

Certainly.

I started with a base C7 with no rear bar. As a long time racing driver placing much emphasis on handling, the base handling felt sloppy with too much understeer and sloppy turn-in.

Change 1 - Added the non-MRC Z51 bars (28mm front, 26mm rear). Definite improvement but, not as much as I was hoping for. The front-end turn-in still felt soft, and the rear bar still did not compensate enough for the substantial understeer of the base model.

Change 2. - I installed the MRC Z51 rear bar (31mm) only. The improvement in overall handling was much more noticable compared to the installation of the non_MRC bars with the 26mm rear bar. Understeer was still present but much reduced. I was "almost" happy with the setup, except the front-end turn-in was still soft, given the same 28mm Z51 front bar used in both Z51 applications.

Change 3 - Installed the aFe, double adjustable front and the triple adjustable rear bars with the solid end-links. I started with the front bar (35mm) in the "soft" position. This bar in the soft position is considerably stiffer than the Z51 front bar. I placed the rear bar in the mid-position. The result is a sharper turn-in for the front-end and a safe, mild understeer in overall handling.

I only had a chance to run it hard twice over my local canyon roads and may change the settings in the future. As of now, the mild understeer can be neutralized with moderate throttle applications on exits from turns. I am able to pour-on the power on exits, even in low gears, without any signs of oversteering tendencies. Mind you, as an experienced racing driver, when I say "pour-on the power" I mean gradual sinking of the throttle pedal, not jumping on it. I was able to do that with traction control-off without any looseness from the rear end. I love neutral handling but, it has its risks, particularly in public road driving. A mistake can result in the rear-end spinning out. Thus, the present setup may end up to be the safer, yet, close-enough to neutral setup for the street. For the track I might want to experiment with going full stiff (neutral) at the rear bar.

I still have the option to going full stiff with the front bar but, at this point, I don't think the car needs it. But, may change my mind in the future as I play with the setup. That is the great thing about adjustable suspension components.

As to the rest of my changes: I do have the Z51 non MRC shocks combined with the stock 18 & 19" tires for giving me more sidewalls as opposed to the 20".

 

Great review, I really appreciate you taking the time to type that out.

Here is another thread I've been working on, if you feel I missed anything please feel free to add it:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1591125343

 

Great insight I have been considering SB for the 2LT I am driving. Thanks. MKG.

 

Have you driven a Z51 and what was your impression of the handling ?

Thanks >>>> Inthered

 

No, never driven a Z51. Generally, having owned a good number of high performance cars, including exotics, never found one with my "ideal" handling. Manufacturers have to be concerned with user safety, thus, they detune the suspension towards that goal. Thus, even the Z51 sway bars are a compromise with safe handling being the priority over max. handling performance. The Z51 front bar is, for my preferences, too small, missing that crisp, razor sharp feel at the turn- in. I corrected that with the larger aFe bars.

 

I just installed a set of Z51 bars on my 2016 and the parking brake cable was not a problem.
I doubt that chevrolet would have changed the location of the PB cable since 2014.
For those of you that are on a budget you might try adding just the Z51 rear bar then drive it you might like it.

 

I searched through the rear sway bar installation threads only to learn that people somehow manage to install the sway bar despite the parking brake cables. I struggled for close to an hour to install a Hotchkiss rear sway bar (33 mm thick) on my 2017 base C7 and, at the end, after I scratched the bar pretty well against the exhaust and brackets, I concluded that it isn't possible to do the install without first disconnecting the parking brake cable. I have the standard exhaust and I suspect that it is a little longer than the NPP exhaust and gets too close to the parking brake cables to allow for the sway bar to pass through.

The parking brake cable is attached to the rear subframe by two brackets, each of which is held by a 13 mm bolt. First release the parking brake to remove the tension in the cables. Then you need to use a wrench to remove the bolts - a ratcheting wrench is perfect.




This is how things look like after the two brackets are removed and the parking brake cable is allowed to drop. There is now plenty of space to insert the sway bar.


The last step is to put the two parking brake brackets back and tighten the 13 mm bolts holding them using the ratcheting wrench.

 

If not mentioned above, I suggest checking the differential fluid-level while the rear bar is off. Much easier.