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How-To: Remove/Replace/Install Rear Sway Bar
#1
Tech Contributor
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St. Jude Donor '14-'15
How-To: Remove/Replace/Install Rear Sway Bar
The following How-To covers the explanation of how to Remove/Replace/Install the Rear Sway Bar and includes specifications, schematics, etc.
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These How-To guides are neither endorsed by or property of Corvette Forum or myself in any way/shape/form. All liability stemming from any actions taken in relation to these guides is solely placed upon the user.
We hope you will find these guides useful.
The following 2 users liked this post by Theta:
bsedwebt (12-25-2017),
McCarthy1986 (03-24-2020)
#4
Great info and write up, thanks a bunch for taking the time. I've had other cars that were dramatically changed for the better by just a change of sway bars. If my AW ever gets here it will be on the list of mods..
#6
Safety Car
Question about the torque specs for the end-link bolts. These appear to be torque-to-yield ( 44 lb-ft plus 30 degrees ). How necessary is a torque angle meter for fastening these? Can one just eyeball the 30 degrees, or approximate it with a higher torque value?
Last edited by meyerweb; 12-17-2015 at 11:02 PM.
#7
Pro
Just last week finished installing the aFe bars on my C7, making it the 3rd swaybar variations.
#8
Le Mans Master
#9
Pro
Certainly.
I started with a base C7 with no rear bar. As a long time racing driver placing much emphasis on handling, the base handling felt sloppy with too much understeer and sloppy turn-in.
Change 1 - Added the non-MRC Z51 bars (28mm front, 26mm rear). Definite improvement but, not as much as I was hoping for. The front-end turn-in still felt soft, and the rear bar still did not compensate enough for the substantial understeer of the base model.
Change 2. - I installed the MRC Z51 rear bar (31mm) only. The improvement in overall handling was much more noticable compared to the installation of the non_MRC bars with the 26mm rear bar. Understeer was still present but much reduced. I was "almost" happy with the setup, except the front-end turn-in was still soft, given the same 28mm Z51 front bar used in both Z51 applications.
Change 3 - Installed the aFe, double adjustable front and the triple adjustable rear bars with the solid end-links. I started with the front bar (35mm) in the "soft" position. This bar in the soft position is considerably stiffer than the Z51 front bar. I placed the rear bar in the mid-position. The result is a sharper turn-in for the front-end and a safe, mild understeer in overall handling.
I only had a chance to run it hard twice over my local canyon roads and may change the settings in the future. As of now, the mild understeer can be neutralized with moderate throttle applications on exits from turns. I am able to pour-on the power on exits, even in low gears, without any signs of oversteering tendencies. Mind you, as an experienced racing driver, when I say "pour-on the power" I mean gradual sinking of the throttle pedal, not jumping on it. I was able to do that with traction control-off without any looseness from the rear end. I love neutral handling but, it has its risks, particularly in public road driving. A mistake can result in the rear-end spinning out. Thus, the present setup may end up to be the safer, yet, close-enough to neutral setup for the street. For the track I might want to experiment with going full stiff (neutral) at the rear bar.
I still have the option to going full stiff with the front bar but, at this point, I don't think the car needs it. But, may change my mind in the future as I play with the setup. That is the great thing about adjustable suspension components.
As to the rest of my changes: I do have the Z51 non MRC shocks combined with the stock 18 & 19" tires for giving me more sidewalls as opposed to the 20".
I started with a base C7 with no rear bar. As a long time racing driver placing much emphasis on handling, the base handling felt sloppy with too much understeer and sloppy turn-in.
Change 1 - Added the non-MRC Z51 bars (28mm front, 26mm rear). Definite improvement but, not as much as I was hoping for. The front-end turn-in still felt soft, and the rear bar still did not compensate enough for the substantial understeer of the base model.
Change 2. - I installed the MRC Z51 rear bar (31mm) only. The improvement in overall handling was much more noticable compared to the installation of the non_MRC bars with the 26mm rear bar. Understeer was still present but much reduced. I was "almost" happy with the setup, except the front-end turn-in was still soft, given the same 28mm Z51 front bar used in both Z51 applications.
Change 3 - Installed the aFe, double adjustable front and the triple adjustable rear bars with the solid end-links. I started with the front bar (35mm) in the "soft" position. This bar in the soft position is considerably stiffer than the Z51 front bar. I placed the rear bar in the mid-position. The result is a sharper turn-in for the front-end and a safe, mild understeer in overall handling.
I only had a chance to run it hard twice over my local canyon roads and may change the settings in the future. As of now, the mild understeer can be neutralized with moderate throttle applications on exits from turns. I am able to pour-on the power on exits, even in low gears, without any signs of oversteering tendencies. Mind you, as an experienced racing driver, when I say "pour-on the power" I mean gradual sinking of the throttle pedal, not jumping on it. I was able to do that with traction control-off without any looseness from the rear end. I love neutral handling but, it has its risks, particularly in public road driving. A mistake can result in the rear-end spinning out. Thus, the present setup may end up to be the safer, yet, close-enough to neutral setup for the street. For the track I might want to experiment with going full stiff (neutral) at the rear bar.
I still have the option to going full stiff with the front bar but, at this point, I don't think the car needs it. But, may change my mind in the future as I play with the setup. That is the great thing about adjustable suspension components.
As to the rest of my changes: I do have the Z51 non MRC shocks combined with the stock 18 & 19" tires for giving me more sidewalls as opposed to the 20".
Last edited by axr6; 12-18-2015 at 01:43 PM.
#10
Le Mans Master
Great review, I really appreciate you taking the time to type that out.
Here is another thread I've been working on, if you feel I missed anything please feel free to add it:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1591125343
Here is another thread I've been working on, if you feel I missed anything please feel free to add it:
In the name of data gathering since it interests me and the release of Hotchkis' swaybar set reminded me, I'll get all this info together in one post.
Supposedly the Z06 and Z07 use identical swaybars as the Z51 w/MRC.
stock C7
Front (base model) - 26.2mm (hollow, 7.85 lbs)
Front (all Z51) - 28mm (hollow, 7.95 lbs)
Rear (base model) - N/A
Rear (base Z51) - 26.5mm (hollow, 6.9 lbs)
Rear (Z51 w/MRC) - 31mm (hollow, ? lbs)
Rubber bushings (base model)
Polyurethane bushings (all Z51)
Hotchkis ($400)
Front - 32mm (hollow & fixed) +35% stiffer vs. Z51 w/MRC
Rear - 33mm (hollow & 3-way adjustable) +20-70% stiffer vs Z51 w/MRC
Polyurethane bushings (reuses stock brackets)
Reuses stock end-links
aFe PFADT ($732)
Front - 35mm (hollow & 2-way adjustable) +??% stiffer vs. Z51 w/MRC
Rear - 32mm (hollow & 3-way adjustable) +??% stiffer vs. Z51 w/MRC
Polyurethane bushings & CNC brackets
Includes heavy-duty end-links
LG Motorsports ($696)
Front - ??mm (hollow & 2-way adjustable)
Rear - ??mm (hollow & fixed)
+45% stiffer vs. Z51 w/MRC (for the set)
Polyurethane bushings
Reuses stock end-links
Optional heavy-duty end-links (+$245)
Supposedly the Z06 and Z07 use identical swaybars as the Z51 w/MRC.
stock C7
Front (base model) - 26.2mm (hollow, 7.85 lbs)
Front (all Z51) - 28mm (hollow, 7.95 lbs)
Rear (base model) - N/A
Rear (base Z51) - 26.5mm (hollow, 6.9 lbs)
Rear (Z51 w/MRC) - 31mm (hollow, ? lbs)
Rubber bushings (base model)
Polyurethane bushings (all Z51)
Hotchkis ($400)
Front - 32mm (hollow & fixed) +35% stiffer vs. Z51 w/MRC
Rear - 33mm (hollow & 3-way adjustable) +20-70% stiffer vs Z51 w/MRC
Polyurethane bushings (reuses stock brackets)
Reuses stock end-links
aFe PFADT ($732)
Front - 35mm (hollow & 2-way adjustable) +??% stiffer vs. Z51 w/MRC
Rear - 32mm (hollow & 3-way adjustable) +??% stiffer vs. Z51 w/MRC
Polyurethane bushings & CNC brackets
Includes heavy-duty end-links
LG Motorsports ($696)
Front - ??mm (hollow & 2-way adjustable)
Rear - ??mm (hollow & fixed)
+45% stiffer vs. Z51 w/MRC (for the set)
Polyurethane bushings
Reuses stock end-links
Optional heavy-duty end-links (+$245)
The following users liked this post:
Marlowe Giles (05-05-2016)
#12
Burning Brakes
Certainly.
I started with a base C7 with no rear bar. As a long time racing driver placing much emphasis on handling, the base handling felt sloppy with too much understeer and sloppy turn-in.
As to the rest of my changes: I do have the Z51 non MRC shocks combined with the stock 18 & 19" tires for giving me more sidewalls as opposed to the 20".
I started with a base C7 with no rear bar. As a long time racing driver placing much emphasis on handling, the base handling felt sloppy with too much understeer and sloppy turn-in.
As to the rest of my changes: I do have the Z51 non MRC shocks combined with the stock 18 & 19" tires for giving me more sidewalls as opposed to the 20".
Thanks >>>> Inthered
#13
Pro
No, never driven a Z51. Generally, having owned a good number of high performance cars, including exotics, never found one with my "ideal" handling. Manufacturers have to be concerned with user safety, thus, they detune the suspension towards that goal. Thus, even the Z51 sway bars are a compromise with safe handling being the priority over max. handling performance. The Z51 front bar is, for my preferences, too small, missing that crisp, razor sharp feel at the turn- in. I corrected that with the larger aFe bars.
#14
Burning Brakes
I doubt that chevrolet would have changed the location of the PB cable since 2014.
For those of you that are on a budget you might try adding just the Z51 rear bar then drive it you might like it.
The following users liked this post:
bsedwebt (12-25-2017)
#15
The parking brake cable is attached to the rear subframe by two brackets, each of which is held by a 13 mm bolt. First release the parking brake to remove the tension in the cables. Then you need to use a wrench to remove the bolts - a ratcheting wrench is perfect.
This is how things look like after the two brackets are removed and the parking brake cable is allowed to drop. There is now plenty of space to insert the sway bar.
The last step is to put the two parking brake brackets back and tighten the 13 mm bolts holding them using the ratcheting wrench.
#16
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Member Since: Mar 2001
Location: Bonneville Salt Flats, 223mph Aug. '04
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If not mentioned above, I suggest checking the differential fluid-level while the rear bar is off. Much easier.