Roof Panel Noises
#1
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St. Jude Donor '15-'16
Roof Panel Noises
Hi,
So I'm having a small issue, and whilst I'm waiting for the service manager to get back to me on how to resolve it, I was wondering if anyone else has experienced it.
Basically I'm getting an infuriating cracking/popping (not a rattle) type noise when I'm driving the car. It often happens over bumps but it mostly happens when the car frame is under a little bit of torque For some reason it seems to happen more frequently at slower speeds. Drove around with a tech and we isolated it to the removable roof panel joints, and in fact the noise completely stopped when we removed the panel and drove around with it in the trunk.
So I'm wondering if this is a known C7 issue or if there's something specifically wrong with either my roof panel or the spacing of my bodywork in front and behind it? The fit seems solid and tight when the panel is attached but obviously something's happening to make the sound.
The dealer is calling GM and of course they will replace it if that's the only solution. It's the visible carbon fibre roof if it matters.
Thanks for any info and/or help.
So I'm having a small issue, and whilst I'm waiting for the service manager to get back to me on how to resolve it, I was wondering if anyone else has experienced it.
Basically I'm getting an infuriating cracking/popping (not a rattle) type noise when I'm driving the car. It often happens over bumps but it mostly happens when the car frame is under a little bit of torque For some reason it seems to happen more frequently at slower speeds. Drove around with a tech and we isolated it to the removable roof panel joints, and in fact the noise completely stopped when we removed the panel and drove around with it in the trunk.
So I'm wondering if this is a known C7 issue or if there's something specifically wrong with either my roof panel or the spacing of my bodywork in front and behind it? The fit seems solid and tight when the panel is attached but obviously something's happening to make the sound.
The dealer is calling GM and of course they will replace it if that's the only solution. It's the visible carbon fibre roof if it matters.
Thanks for any info and/or help.
#2
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Hi,
So I'm having a small issue, and whilst I'm waiting for the service manager to get back to me on how to resolve it, I was wondering if anyone else has experienced it.
Basically I'm getting an infuriating cracking/popping (not a rattle) type noise when I'm driving the car. It often happens over bumps but it mostly happens when the car frame is under a little bit of torque For some reason it seems to happen more frequently at slower speeds. Drove around with a tech and we isolated it to the removable roof panel joints, and in fact the noise completely stopped when we removed the panel and drove around with it in the trunk.
So I'm wondering if this is a known C7 issue or if there's something specifically wrong with either my roof panel or the spacing of my bodywork in front and behind it? The fit seems solid and tight when the panel is attached but obviously something's happening to make the sound.
The dealer is calling GM and of course they will replace it if that's the only solution. It's the visible carbon fibre roof if it matters.
Thanks for any info and/or help.
So I'm having a small issue, and whilst I'm waiting for the service manager to get back to me on how to resolve it, I was wondering if anyone else has experienced it.
Basically I'm getting an infuriating cracking/popping (not a rattle) type noise when I'm driving the car. It often happens over bumps but it mostly happens when the car frame is under a little bit of torque For some reason it seems to happen more frequently at slower speeds. Drove around with a tech and we isolated it to the removable roof panel joints, and in fact the noise completely stopped when we removed the panel and drove around with it in the trunk.
So I'm wondering if this is a known C7 issue or if there's something specifically wrong with either my roof panel or the spacing of my bodywork in front and behind it? The fit seems solid and tight when the panel is attached but obviously something's happening to make the sound.
The dealer is calling GM and of course they will replace it if that's the only solution. It's the visible carbon fibre roof if it matters.
Thanks for any info and/or help.
#3
Burning Brakes
Sounds exactly like the issue I have with my Lotus Exige that also has a carbon fiber removable roof. Between the torquing of the panel in the mounts and the panel itself, still haven't hunted it down.
#5
The Consigliere
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Soulsea,
This issue has come up on the Stingray (same roof panel used on them). You'll find a couple threads on it in C7 gen.
There is one thread in particular where it appears a "fix" was identified that worked for most people that had the issue. There are some pics in that thread that help show it. But in essence the rear latch - the hook that extends to grab and secure down, that hook can be adjusted. There is a small set screw that one needs to remove. Once the set screw is removed, that hook can be turned (screwed shorter) one full turn (or more if needed) to shorten the hook's reach. Once the hook is turned, thus shortening it, the set screw is re-installed to keep the hook from turning. The affect of this is the hook has a shorter reach, and thus when the rear of the roof is latched down it latches down a bit more snug.
Seems like most of the folks with Stingrays that had this issue found this fix to take care of it.
Good luck.
This issue has come up on the Stingray (same roof panel used on them). You'll find a couple threads on it in C7 gen.
There is one thread in particular where it appears a "fix" was identified that worked for most people that had the issue. There are some pics in that thread that help show it. But in essence the rear latch - the hook that extends to grab and secure down, that hook can be adjusted. There is a small set screw that one needs to remove. Once the set screw is removed, that hook can be turned (screwed shorter) one full turn (or more if needed) to shorten the hook's reach. Once the hook is turned, thus shortening it, the set screw is re-installed to keep the hook from turning. The affect of this is the hook has a shorter reach, and thus when the rear of the roof is latched down it latches down a bit more snug.
Seems like most of the folks with Stingrays that had this issue found this fix to take care of it.
Good luck.
#6
Burning Brakes
same here. it didn't happen until I release the top latch. I didn't remove the top, but released and relocked the latch.
I posted it before and there were a few suggestions about tightening the latches, etc. I am due for my 500 mi service and will be asking them to address rather than trying it on my own. Will report back with results.
I posted it before and there were a few suggestions about tightening the latches, etc. I am due for my 500 mi service and will be asking them to address rather than trying it on my own. Will report back with results.
#7
Le Mans Master
Check the General Discussion forum as they have the same roof.
I remember seeing this discussed.
I remember seeing this discussed.
#8
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St. Jude Donor '15-'16
Soulsea,
This issue has come up on the Stingray (same roof panel used on them). You'll find a couple threads on it in C7 gen.
There is one thread in particular where it appears a "fix" was identified that worked for most people that had the issue. There are some pics in that thread that help show it. But in essence the rear latch - the hook that extends to grab and secure down, that hook can be adjusted. There is a small set screw that one needs to remove. Once the set screw is removed, that hook can be turned (screwed shorter) one full turn (or more if needed) to shorten the hook's reach. Once the hook is turned, thus shortening it, the set screw is re-installed to keep the hook from turning. The affect of this is the hook has a shorter reach, and thus when the rear of the roof is latched down it latches down a bit more snug.
Seems like most of the folks with Stingrays that had this issue found this fix to take care of it.
Good luck.
This issue has come up on the Stingray (same roof panel used on them). You'll find a couple threads on it in C7 gen.
There is one thread in particular where it appears a "fix" was identified that worked for most people that had the issue. There are some pics in that thread that help show it. But in essence the rear latch - the hook that extends to grab and secure down, that hook can be adjusted. There is a small set screw that one needs to remove. Once the set screw is removed, that hook can be turned (screwed shorter) one full turn (or more if needed) to shorten the hook's reach. Once the hook is turned, thus shortening it, the set screw is re-installed to keep the hook from turning. The affect of this is the hook has a shorter reach, and thus when the rear of the roof is latched down it latches down a bit more snug.
Seems like most of the folks with Stingrays that had this issue found this fix to take care of it.
Good luck.
I'm going to go searching the C7 sub-forum now but if someone has a link to the fix post at the ready I'd be grateful.
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St. Jude Donor '15-'16
Found a couple of threads on it:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...s-crossed.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-on-coupe.html
Thanks again.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...s-crossed.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-on-coupe.html
Thanks again.
#12
Drifting
There are some threads about this in the C7 General section as well.
In a similar thread on another C7 forum I found a gentleman who used a very specific lubricant (Krytox RFE) on the header latches. I haven't tried myself yet, but it sounded very promising given how specific the symptoms and solution was. I have noticed the header latches as the source in mine as well.
http://www.stingrayforums.com/forum/...m-fixed-8.html
In a similar thread on another C7 forum I found a gentleman who used a very specific lubricant (Krytox RFE) on the header latches. I haven't tried myself yet, but it sounded very promising given how specific the symptoms and solution was. I have noticed the header latches as the source in mine as well.
http://www.stingrayforums.com/forum/...m-fixed-8.html
#13
Le Mans Master
I remember those sounds from my C4. Was so happy when C5 and C6 Z06 went with a fixed roof.
#14
Sounds like door seals or roof seals (the plastic rubber weather seal) need to be treated with a grease/teflon tape. Common problem in a lot of cars these days. It has a lot to do with humidity, temperature, and how wet/dry the surface is also.
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St. Jude Donor '14-'15-'16
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Same issue here with my glass roof. It came about after 1000 miles or so. I didn't have it with the CF roof but didn't drive much with it. I did try tightening the latch and it didn't do much of anything. I'm concerned about tightening it too much. Maybe I'll bathe the car in KY jelly.
#16
Racer
Same issue here with my glass roof. It came about after 1000 miles or so. I didn't have it with the CF roof but didn't drive much with it. I did try tightening the latch and it didn't do much of anything. I'm concerned about tightening it too much. Maybe I'll bathe the car in KY jelly.
#17
Melting Slicks
Okay this is my second C7. First was a Z51 with a carbon exposed roof. Second is my Z06 with a painted carbon roof. My Z was making a popping rattle sound from the roof panel that was VERY irritating. I am very OCD and even a little noise will drive me crazy and I been known to tear apart my cars to find a resolution. The resolutions I posted below have worked for me while I cant guarantee they will resolve your problems as car noises can be a pain in the A to isolate & resolve. When the roof panel is cold it has a tendency to exasperate the noise with the frame, latch & headliner. Here are my thoughts
LATCH: resolution.
First the latch plastic housing is held in by two screws & two clips: I removed the housing and added Dynamat Sound Insulation
strips to the inside of the panel. Be carful don't add to much since it is very small and needs to fit snug to the frame of the roof. The latch mechanism has a metal rod that rattles so I added thick grease to it. (remove all excess with Q-Tips) Post #5 The hook that extends to grab and secure down the roof: The hook can be adjusted. There is a small set screw that one needs to remove. Once the set screw is removed, that hook can be turned (screwed shorter) one full turn (or more if needed BE CAREFUL) to shorten the hook's reach. Once the hook is turned, thus shortening it, the set screw is re-installed to keep the hook from turning. The affect of this is the hook has a shorter reach, and thus when the rear of the roof is latched down it latches down a bit more snug. You will notice this additional shortening of the hook (while latching it closed) will flex the top of your roof (carbon or painted side) panel downward. Please use extreme caution since this extra torque can be a problem for the frame.
HEADLINER: Resolution
This is a repost so copying and pasting. The problem is the glue is tacky but doesn't hold the felt liner securely to the carbon roof. You will notice when pushing your finger against the headliner its not sticking all through out the pad. This can cause all sort of noises. I replaced my headliner felt pad with leather. My Post below: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...h-leather.html
Frame: Investigating no resolution at the moment.
I noticed after waxing the hell out of my new Z the roof starting making noises. It could be all the wax drying out the roof seals around the frame and the body of the car. If you make sure the rubber seals are properly conditioned it should help resolve some of the problem. The internal frame could be causing the sounds too.
In closing I will drive my car over the weekend to see if it has resolved the issues. The weathers been horrible so haven't had enough seat time to make sure its been resolved. Sorry for the poor grammar & spelling as I am a Match Major. English language is not logical to me
LATCH: resolution.
First the latch plastic housing is held in by two screws & two clips: I removed the housing and added Dynamat Sound Insulation
strips to the inside of the panel. Be carful don't add to much since it is very small and needs to fit snug to the frame of the roof. The latch mechanism has a metal rod that rattles so I added thick grease to it. (remove all excess with Q-Tips) Post #5 The hook that extends to grab and secure down the roof: The hook can be adjusted. There is a small set screw that one needs to remove. Once the set screw is removed, that hook can be turned (screwed shorter) one full turn (or more if needed BE CAREFUL) to shorten the hook's reach. Once the hook is turned, thus shortening it, the set screw is re-installed to keep the hook from turning. The affect of this is the hook has a shorter reach, and thus when the rear of the roof is latched down it latches down a bit more snug. You will notice this additional shortening of the hook (while latching it closed) will flex the top of your roof (carbon or painted side) panel downward. Please use extreme caution since this extra torque can be a problem for the frame.
HEADLINER: Resolution
This is a repost so copying and pasting. The problem is the glue is tacky but doesn't hold the felt liner securely to the carbon roof. You will notice when pushing your finger against the headliner its not sticking all through out the pad. This can cause all sort of noises. I replaced my headliner felt pad with leather. My Post below: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...h-leather.html
Frame: Investigating no resolution at the moment.
I noticed after waxing the hell out of my new Z the roof starting making noises. It could be all the wax drying out the roof seals around the frame and the body of the car. If you make sure the rubber seals are properly conditioned it should help resolve some of the problem. The internal frame could be causing the sounds too.
In closing I will drive my car over the weekend to see if it has resolved the issues. The weathers been horrible so haven't had enough seat time to make sure its been resolved. Sorry for the poor grammar & spelling as I am a Match Major. English language is not logical to me
Last edited by fasttoys; 01-14-2015 at 11:21 PM.
#18
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St. Jude Donor '15-'16
Okay so I took it in and they did the lube and latch tightening routine. One thing I did notice is that it almost completely stopped doing the noise the moment outside temp went over 70. So obviously heat expansion helps. It's been really warm around Charleston during the day so they kept the car overnight to test it in the morning when it's in the mid 40s and they told me the noise is gone. It was again above 70 when I drove back from the dealer so I can't confirm if it is indeed fixed or not, but I'll test her out when the temp drops again.
#19
Racer
Okay so I took it in and they did the lube and latch tightening routine. One thing I did notice is that it almost completely stopped doing the noise the moment outside temp went over 70. So obviously heat expansion helps. It's been really warm around Charleston during the day so they kept the car overnight to test it in the morning when it's in the mid 40s and they told me the noise is gone. It was again above 70 when I drove back from the dealer so I can't confirm if it is indeed fixed or not, but I'll test her out when the temp drops again.
It sounds like pop corn while I'm driving down the road and it's driving me bonkers...
I looked at the "set screw" and it doesn't seem to have a receptacle for a driver (phillips, standard, hex, or torx). Consequently, I'm not comfortable tuning the latch, as it clearly requires the set screw to be backed out first.
I also greased the appropriate sections and added the o-rings.
Anyone else have/solve this problem?
#20
Any update?
It sounds like pop corn while I'm driving down the road and it's driving me bonkers...
I looked at the "set screw" and it doesn't seem to have a receptacle for a driver (phillips, standard, hex, or torx). Consequently, I'm not comfortable tuning the latch, as it clearly requires the set screw to be backed out first.
I also greased the appropriate sections and added the o-rings.
Anyone else have/solve this problem?
It sounds like pop corn while I'm driving down the road and it's driving me bonkers...
I looked at the "set screw" and it doesn't seem to have a receptacle for a driver (phillips, standard, hex, or torx). Consequently, I'm not comfortable tuning the latch, as it clearly requires the set screw to be backed out first.
I also greased the appropriate sections and added the o-rings.
Anyone else have/solve this problem?
I tried two different kinds of dressings that fix (temporarily) same kind of issue on my BMW (or so I thought).
The sound still comes back. The solution is driving with the top off. :-)
Or... Track exhaust and generous throttle + sound system volume.