jwaldro2

Okay so I have researched using rejex. I know you wash w dawn, clay bar, re-wash (optional), then apply rejex. My question is this, can I wash with dawn dry the car then apply rejex. I have never clay barred a car and I bought the vette used a month ago. I know it was waxed bc the water beads up and the paint is in great condition. Just need some advice thanks!

WAwatchnut

The clay bar step isn't completely necessary. Clay barring the car removes any contaminates embedded in the paint, which washing doesn't remove. Not doing this step means you'll be applying the wax/polymer protectants over the contaminants. The end result is the paint won't look as glossy smooth as it could, and the protectants won't adhere quite as well (will last a little less between applications).

Put a plastic bag over your hand. Then run your hand over the freshly washed paint. Does it feel smooth, or do you feel graininess on the paint? That's a good indicator that you really should clay the car.

0Killrwheels@Autogeek

Rejex is a paint sealant that is designed to protect paint. It offers alot of gloss and quite slippery. Its also very durable. In order to get the best from "any" paint sealant, you should properly clean or prep paint prior to its use to get the best looks and longest protection.

**Dawn really isnt needed in car care **

Wash --- Clay --- Polish (or paint cleanse) --- REJEX !!

jwaldro2

Thanks guys I get the car back Tuesday so I'll do the bag test then the steps you guys suggested.

WAwatchnut

Dawn isn't really a great soap for normal car care. Because it's a pretty aggressive soap, it is mentioned by many for use when doing a complete cleaning of the paint - Dawn to clean and strip any old protectants (wax, Rejex, etc), clay bar to remove contaminants, rewash, then new coat(s) of protectants. But for general use, not a great choice. Since it sounds like you' going for the complete cleaning, it wouldn't be bad for this round, but some people argue it isn't necessary.

Killrwheels - do you think washing with normal auto soap is enough to ensure any old protectants are removed, or do you believe it isn't necessary to remove old protectants? Since the OP doesntknow what's on there now, it would seem Dawn would be a good choice for now?

jwaldro2

Yeah I'm not too sure it does bead up pretty good

0Killrwheels@Autogeek

Normal soap is fine for washing off current contaminents and general paint care. If I am removing old waxes, sealants, or oxidation I prefer to consider paint polishing by machine, or a chemical paint cleansing lotion. I personally like to remove anything old before applying something new to get the full benefits of the new product and to guage if I like it and just how easy it is to use.

I also am NOT a fan of Dawn in car care. I am not here to argue about it, but I believe it was once suggested to remove the oils found in carnauba based waxes. I seriously doubt it can remove all of a well cured paint sealant in one wash. Times have changed and numerous products have been designed to specialize in prepping paint.

WAwatchnut

No argument here - just was looking for a reasonable explanation.

I'm planning on switching and trying something new for a protectant, but a machine polish is part of the plan.

headhawg

I thought that I would take advantage of the BOGO on Rejex at Autogeek and try it on my Arctic White C5. My question is, what is the advantage of a second application? Better protection? Better appearance? The 12 hour curing time is a disadvantage of Rejex but if there will be better results with an additional layer I would certainly wait the extra time.

0Killrwheels@Autogeek

An additional layer of a sealant often offers longer protection, not necessarily better protection. It might also add a bit more gloss. Just remember the curing time is often shorter with the use of Rejex. Remember the idea is to apply, buff off, and allow some additional time to cure onto paint before adding an additional layer.

tampatopless

Second coat of rejex is not worth it. It's heavy duty stuff and is also used on boats and aircraft. I used it for a couple of years. Little goes a long way. I tried multiple coats, but the best my Silver Vette ever looked using Rejex was when I would wait 24 hours for it to cure and then hit it with a quick wax. It really brought out the pop.

If you feel better, do two coats the first time around. But you really do have to let it cure a while before doing anything with it.

headhawg

Thanks for the replies. I'll try one layer first and see what the results are like. The quick wax idea is one that I might try as well. White is a tough color to do much with anyway.

headhawg

Just a follow-up on Rejex. I did the works on my C5 and I must say it looks great. I didn't think it could look better than it already did being Arctic White, but the combination of Blackfire Polish and Rejex makes it look fantastic! However, a couple things that I don't like about Rejex: 1) it didn't seem as easy to remove as other waxes I've used before. Perhaps this is a function of it being a paint sealant, I don't know; and 2) the strong smell. Wow. If you're sensitive to petroleum products then this is not for you. I am not sure that I want to use it again because of the smell.

0Killrwheels@Autogeek

Try to practice placing on a thin even coat when applying any sealant which commonly helps with removal. (excess is not more protection). Also if your environment is damp and humid, perhaps a little additional drying time before buffing might help.

I have a friend locally using Rejex and the other day after a wash we used Optimums Quick Detailer/Gloss Enhancing Spray and he swore it added even more gloss. Just a thought as I know you were looking for some additonal options too.

headhawg

I suspect that you're right about the evenness of the Rejex application. I really tried to put on a small amount but I couldn't seem to spread it evenly. I used a cheap microfiber applicator so that may be the culprit.

Re: the quick detailer. I thought that the recommendation on the Rejex bottle was not to apply anything over it as it might interfere with the sealant? Perhaps I misunderstood that. So, quick detailers are ok?

tampatopless

Yeah, I used quick waxes and detailers on top of it all day long for about two years. I probably applied Rejex once every couple of months and would use a quick detailer/wax after every wash.

Just wait a day or so before putting anything else on it. You will find it shines even brighter about a week later after a wash and an application of a quick detailer/wax.

0Killrwheels@Autogeek

Foam applicators are easier to use with most sealants. I only use the MF ones with the liquid WOWA sealants that need no buffing.

A quick detailer spray or gloss spray should not harm a well cured sealant like Rejex. Sometimes spray waxes and spray sealants might. As with anything you gotta try and try till you find your best combo.