Swirl removal/clear coat question
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Swirl removal/clear coat question
I apologize for asking a question I know that's been asked before at some point or another. A few searches and I did not find an answer quickly.
I know all cars are different. I know all cars have varying levels of paint damage. I know different compounds to remove swirls are more or less aggressive than others. I know they make tools to check clear coat thickness.
But...
What is a very simplified answer to how many times you can safely remove swirls from a c6? For this example lets go with a moderate to light compound and trying to figure out how many passes can be made over a car before the clear has been significantly reduced.
Are we talking about 2-3 or more like 10+?
I know all cars are different. I know all cars have varying levels of paint damage. I know different compounds to remove swirls are more or less aggressive than others. I know they make tools to check clear coat thickness.
But...
What is a very simplified answer to how many times you can safely remove swirls from a c6? For this example lets go with a moderate to light compound and trying to figure out how many passes can be made over a car before the clear has been significantly reduced.
Are we talking about 2-3 or more like 10+?
#2
Drifting
Unfortunately it can't be simplified that much.
First bit of advice, don't introduce new marring. Use QUALITY MF towels (not costco or sams club). 2 bucket method, grit guards, quality mf wash mitt, etc.
As for material removal, this is from another thread I posted in.
When I am doing light correction work or just basic polishing, I am removing less than 1 micron.
This is from a professional with many years experience. Anyone can remove defects, but it takes a skilled hand to remove them while preserving as much clear coat material as possible.
Something as simple as two people using the same machine, pad, and product can have VASTLY different results based on amount of product/pressure/working time. Often times the DIY guys will use too much product (too much abrasives) and way too much pressure. So we may both remove the same defects in a particular spot but the DIY guy could remove 2-3x the material.
I'd be more than happy to get you started the right way and with the right products (link you to some, not selling you anything) and the right techniques. So if you're serious, shoot me a PM and I'll send you my phone number and can help you out.
First bit of advice, don't introduce new marring. Use QUALITY MF towels (not costco or sams club). 2 bucket method, grit guards, quality mf wash mitt, etc.
As for material removal, this is from another thread I posted in.
"I have done hundreds of corvettes and have the ability to measure the thickness of the clear coat.
On average modern day vette clear (C5-C7) is about 30 microns thick.
If I am doing a very extensive correction on a heavily marred car that the owner wants to look as good as is possible I may remove 2 or 3 microns, worst case scenario. This is for paint correction….not “polishing with an orbital”. So for an aggressive correction in which the goal is to reverse years of neglect, you can remove 1/10th, safely. However this is ideally a 1 time event. I educate my clients on how to care for their cars going forward so this level of work doesn’t need to be done again."
On average modern day vette clear (C5-C7) is about 30 microns thick.
If I am doing a very extensive correction on a heavily marred car that the owner wants to look as good as is possible I may remove 2 or 3 microns, worst case scenario. This is for paint correction….not “polishing with an orbital”. So for an aggressive correction in which the goal is to reverse years of neglect, you can remove 1/10th, safely. However this is ideally a 1 time event. I educate my clients on how to care for their cars going forward so this level of work doesn’t need to be done again."
When I am doing light correction work or just basic polishing, I am removing less than 1 micron.
This is from a professional with many years experience. Anyone can remove defects, but it takes a skilled hand to remove them while preserving as much clear coat material as possible.
Something as simple as two people using the same machine, pad, and product can have VASTLY different results based on amount of product/pressure/working time. Often times the DIY guys will use too much product (too much abrasives) and way too much pressure. So we may both remove the same defects in a particular spot but the DIY guy could remove 2-3x the material.
I'd be more than happy to get you started the right way and with the right products (link you to some, not selling you anything) and the right techniques. So if you're serious, shoot me a PM and I'll send you my phone number and can help you out.
Last edited by GoFast908Z; 10-31-2016 at 01:37 PM.
The following 4 users liked this post by GoFast908Z:
hobartcorvette81 (05-05-2017),
JoshVette (11-18-2016),
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#3
Drifting
simple swirls generally do not need much cut to remove. There truly are a great number of factors to consider and giving a hard number is not likely. Look at approx 2 mil of paint from the factory as a base. After approx .5 mils you would compromise the clear and may need a repaint.
That being said why are you needing to know this. Practice good techniques and you lessen the likelihood of introducing defects to begin with.
I would say 20 times max. Just a guess again as too many variables come into play. You would really need a PTG and take measurements each time to see what the being and end results are to be perfectly safe
That being said why are you needing to know this. Practice good techniques and you lessen the likelihood of introducing defects to begin with.
I would say 20 times max. Just a guess again as too many variables come into play. You would really need a PTG and take measurements each time to see what the being and end results are to be perfectly safe
#4
Former Vendor
There is no one that can guarantee this xxx many polishes from any buffer. As you offered, there are many different abrasive levels from polishes (compounds to finishing polishes) as well as pads. Pressure, heat, and other items can also effect how much paint is removed.
The best choice is to start with the least abrasive polish and pad and only move forward to more abrasive levels as needed. Use good washing and drying techniques as well as the correct tools and you may not need to polish again, and certainly not quickly. Realize that paints in good condition without major marring may benefit from a chemical based cleaner versus polishing.
Other than a dedicated paint tool, you will find it almost impossible to see how much paint is there versus how much is removed. Orbitals like the ones you use are considered safe and likely will remove much less paint then expected when used properly. That said ... any tool should be used with care and caution.
The best choice is to start with the least abrasive polish and pad and only move forward to more abrasive levels as needed. Use good washing and drying techniques as well as the correct tools and you may not need to polish again, and certainly not quickly. Realize that paints in good condition without major marring may benefit from a chemical based cleaner versus polishing.
Other than a dedicated paint tool, you will find it almost impossible to see how much paint is there versus how much is removed. Orbitals like the ones you use are considered safe and likely will remove much less paint then expected when used properly. That said ... any tool should be used with care and caution.
#5
Baby powder has taken the swirls out of all my dark colored cars...this is assuming you are talking about a waxed car that doesn't need paint correction but has buffing marks that you can't get out.
I take baby powder and shake it on the area and then wipe it off with a slightly damp and clean microfiber cloth and they are GONE! Sounds like a simple-*** thing to use, and it may be BUT IT WORKS!
I take baby powder and shake it on the area and then wipe it off with a slightly damp and clean microfiber cloth and they are GONE! Sounds like a simple-*** thing to use, and it may be BUT IT WORKS!