Road America-in car video
#5
Melting Slicks
#7
Melting Slicks
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Originally Posted by AU N EGL
L You moved to Indiana???
Guess Gingerman and Putnam will be my home tracks now...still ran Mid OH a few times though. RA should be fun next wknd, my first time there
Have you run it?
Any instructor advice for me?
#8
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Originally Posted by levettegrl
Have you run it?
Any instructor advice for me?
#9
Drifting
Here is some unsolicited advice:
1. Brake before you crest the hill going from turn 5 to 6. It's under the Toyota Bridge (formerly the Corvette Bridge). You will not make turn 6 (blind left hand) if you brake after the crest. Everyone will be saddened by an off into the pea gravel there as it will shut the track down for 30-40 minutes until they can dig you out. There used to be a large white dot on the right hand side of the track indicating a brake point.
2. Treat turn 11 (Kink) with respect. It has claimed more than a few cars. Only liars and slow drivers say it is not scarry.
3. Any vibration during braking means it's time to get off and replace the cracked rotor. You don't want a chunk breaking off going into braking zones for 1, 5 & 12. My XP10 fronts wear down about 1/3 of pad thickness in two days at RA. Bring spare rotors. Last fall I cracked a front and a rear.
4. The double brat used to be the same price as the single brat at St. John's concession stand. Real local Wisconsin bratwurst!
Everything else is pretty straighforward. Have fun.
1. Brake before you crest the hill going from turn 5 to 6. It's under the Toyota Bridge (formerly the Corvette Bridge). You will not make turn 6 (blind left hand) if you brake after the crest. Everyone will be saddened by an off into the pea gravel there as it will shut the track down for 30-40 minutes until they can dig you out. There used to be a large white dot on the right hand side of the track indicating a brake point.
2. Treat turn 11 (Kink) with respect. It has claimed more than a few cars. Only liars and slow drivers say it is not scarry.
3. Any vibration during braking means it's time to get off and replace the cracked rotor. You don't want a chunk breaking off going into braking zones for 1, 5 & 12. My XP10 fronts wear down about 1/3 of pad thickness in two days at RA. Bring spare rotors. Last fall I cracked a front and a rear.
4. The double brat used to be the same price as the single brat at St. John's concession stand. Real local Wisconsin bratwurst!
Everything else is pretty straighforward. Have fun.
Last edited by UstaB-GS549; 09-09-2006 at 02:54 PM.
#10
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great advice, thanks guys, think I will throw an extra set of everything in the back
yeh I saw a few kinks in there on the video where it was pretty obvious if you didn't hit it right you would be a john deere
yeh I saw a few kinks in there on the video where it was pretty obvious if you didn't hit it right you would be a john deere
#11
Melting Slicks
Originally Posted by robvuk
Anyone have any videos of CMP????
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
Also check out http://www.na-motorsports.com/Tracks/SC/CMP.html#HotLap
for a complete "Hot Lap" description of how to drive it. That plus the videos will put you well ahead of the competition!
#12
Drifting
One last thing. Make sure you go to the bar at Siebkins in Elkhart Lake. There is a lot of race history on the walls and ceiling from just about every major race team that existed.
#13
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#14
Drifting
http://ladyluckmotorsports.com/main%...%20Sprints.wmv
This is the video from Lance Knupp, who qualified on the outside front-row at June Sprints in his T1 Corvette- stock motor, full cats, stock air box and intake, GM T1 suspension.
This is the video from Lance Knupp, who qualified on the outside front-row at June Sprints in his T1 Corvette- stock motor, full cats, stock air box and intake, GM T1 suspension.
#17
Originally Posted by UstaB-GS549
One last thing. Make sure you go to the bar at Siebkins in Elkhart Lake. There is a lot of race history on the walls and ceiling from just about every major race team that existed.
Make sure you have some high temp pads and spare rotors.
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Originally Posted by Gary2KC5
And then another last thing...get some 2,5" automotive hose and route some air to the front brakes. wire it to vent directly on the rotor. Run a minimum of one hose, two would be better.
Make sure you have some high temp pads and spare rotors.
Make sure you have some high temp pads and spare rotors.
I have the DRM ducts, makes a huge difference in keeping the rotors cooler I love the carbotech 10/9 setup, has been working for me
#20
Melting Slicks
Originally Posted by levettegrl
I have the DRM ducts, makes a huge difference in keeping the rotors cooler I love the carbotech 10/9 setup, has been working for me