Any C6 autocrossers here? Need Advice for a novice with an 07.
#1
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '03 & '05
Any C6 autocrossers here? Need Advice for a novice with an 07.
My friend has a 07 Z51 A6. The only mod on it is cat back exhaust. He wants to start working the car to be a better handler, as we all do, but wants advice, tips, tricks on making her handle better. If you have any thing to help out please post. He is currently looking at sway bars, tires
,he is still abusing the factory Eagles, and alignment, but here in Hawaii and "dial up for him" he doesnt get have much to go on.
Thanks in advance, Steve
ps My new BFG KD's replaced my old BFG KD's were a huge difference.
,he is still abusing the factory Eagles, and alignment, but here in Hawaii and "dial up for him" he doesnt get have much to go on.
Thanks in advance, Steve
ps My new BFG KD's replaced my old BFG KD's were a huge difference.
#3
Melting Slicks
Depends on what class he wants to run in and under what rules.
Get your hands on a set of rules first and then you can decide what you want to do. Specifically what class do you want to run and what are the "allowances" for that class... You don't want to do something that bumps you into a different class that has much bigger allowances because you will then have to do a lot more to get competitive in that class...And, spending the money for a change that ends up putting you in a different class can be a frustrating experience, as well as a waste of money when you have to undo it.
In order of things, an alignment will help the most and is required if you are going to go to serious meats later... I will keep you from destroying the edges of your tires and ends up saving money in the long run...
So get it aligned first
Then work on your driving.
Then get some serious tires.
That should cover it for the near future.
Run a lot of events, talk to people who are fast and ask them what they have done, and listen and learn.
Get your hands on a set of rules first and then you can decide what you want to do. Specifically what class do you want to run and what are the "allowances" for that class... You don't want to do something that bumps you into a different class that has much bigger allowances because you will then have to do a lot more to get competitive in that class...And, spending the money for a change that ends up putting you in a different class can be a frustrating experience, as well as a waste of money when you have to undo it.
In order of things, an alignment will help the most and is required if you are going to go to serious meats later... I will keep you from destroying the edges of your tires and ends up saving money in the long run...
So get it aligned first
Then work on your driving.
Then get some serious tires.
That should cover it for the near future.
Run a lot of events, talk to people who are fast and ask them what they have done, and listen and learn.
#4
Le Mans Master
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Member Since: Feb 1999
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 8,522
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St. Jude Donor '03 & '05
Depends on what class he wants to run in and under what rules.
Get your hands on a set of rules first and then you can decide what you want to do. Specifically what class do you want to run and what are the "allowances" for that class... You don't want to do something that bumps you into a different class that has much bigger allowances because you will then have to do a lot more to get competitive in that class...And, spending the money for a change that ends up putting you in a different class can be a frustrating experience, as well as a waste of money when you have to undo it.
In order of things, an alignment will help the most and is required if you are going to go to serious meats later... I will keep you from destroying the edges of your tires and ends up saving money in the long run...
So get it aligned first
Then work on your driving.
Then get some serious tires.
That should cover it for the near future.
Run a lot of events, talk to people who are fast and ask them what they have done, and listen and learn.
Get your hands on a set of rules first and then you can decide what you want to do. Specifically what class do you want to run and what are the "allowances" for that class... You don't want to do something that bumps you into a different class that has much bigger allowances because you will then have to do a lot more to get competitive in that class...And, spending the money for a change that ends up putting you in a different class can be a frustrating experience, as well as a waste of money when you have to undo it.
In order of things, an alignment will help the most and is required if you are going to go to serious meats later... I will keep you from destroying the edges of your tires and ends up saving money in the long run...
So get it aligned first
Then work on your driving.
Then get some serious tires.
That should cover it for the near future.
Run a lot of events, talk to people who are fast and ask them what they have done, and listen and learn.
#6
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To stay in SS you can only do shocks and tires, you can do a different front sway bar but there is probably no advantage to do that on the C6.
What is his budget?
If he really wants to stay in SS a set of motons or penske shocks and some Hoosier A6's.
If the Penskes or motons are out of his budget you can go with the Bilstein sports or Koni sports the Koni's are adjustable the Bilsteins are not.
If he really wants to be competitive in his C6 he should probably consider moving to ASP. This will let you run any size wheel/tire and you can even out the wider wheel/tire advantage the C5Z06 has over the C6.
IIRC in ASP you can add CAI, intake, headers, tuning, sway bars, different (stiffer) springs as long as they are the same type and in the same location. If you go to coilovers I think that would put you in SM2 and you will probably not be competitive in there certainly not at the national level.
What is his budget?
If he really wants to stay in SS a set of motons or penske shocks and some Hoosier A6's.
If the Penskes or motons are out of his budget you can go with the Bilstein sports or Koni sports the Koni's are adjustable the Bilsteins are not.
If he really wants to be competitive in his C6 he should probably consider moving to ASP. This will let you run any size wheel/tire and you can even out the wider wheel/tire advantage the C5Z06 has over the C6.
IIRC in ASP you can add CAI, intake, headers, tuning, sway bars, different (stiffer) springs as long as they are the same type and in the same location. If you go to coilovers I think that would put you in SM2 and you will probably not be competitive in there certainly not at the national level.
#8
Instructor
I'll go with most of what c6400hp said with two exceptions. Changing that pinky of a front sway bar on the C6 will make a difference, period. 2nd, as for shocks try a set of C6Z shocks, much better rebound than base and you can pick up a set used for less than 200.00 or by them new from Gene for something like 230.00 or so. The new Koni sport would be my only other choice for a shock.
I run ASP and Hoosier tires on stock C6 wheels and have the big sway bars front and rear (my Addco rear sway bar is bigger than the stock front bar just about) with C6Z shocks along with headers, cai, etc. and I am quite happy with the car. It's plenty fast with my current setup.
I run ASP and Hoosier tires on stock C6 wheels and have the big sway bars front and rear (my Addco rear sway bar is bigger than the stock front bar just about) with C6Z shocks along with headers, cai, etc. and I am quite happy with the car. It's plenty fast with my current setup.
#9
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I'll go with most of what c6400hp said with two exceptions. Changing that pinky of a front sway bar on the C6 will make a difference, period. 2nd, as for shocks try a set of C6Z shocks, much better rebound than base and you can pick up a set used for less than 200.00 or by them new from Gene for something like 230.00 or so. The new Koni sport would be my only other choice for a shock.
I run ASP and Hoosier tires on stock C6 wheels and have the big sway bars front and rear (my Addco rear sway bar is bigger than the stock front bar just about) with C6Z shocks along with headers, cai, etc. and I am quite happy with the car. It's plenty fast with my current setup.
I run ASP and Hoosier tires on stock C6 wheels and have the big sway bars front and rear (my Addco rear sway bar is bigger than the stock front bar just about) with C6Z shocks along with headers, cai, etc. and I am quite happy with the car. It's plenty fast with my current setup.
If you put a big front swaybar on the C6 with the skinny front tires and without being able to change to a larger rear bar you will just make it understeer even more than it already does. That won't help anyone be faster on an AX course.
The bilstein sports are leagues better than the C6Z06 shocks, The Koni sports may be even better because of their adjustability but Koni still dropped the ball. Instead of doing a shock specifically designed for the C6 Koni stuck with the shorter C5 shock body design like the Bilstein sports.
Last edited by C6400hp; 07-04-2007 at 01:08 AM.
#10
Instructor
We will just have to disagree on the sway bar. When I bought this car I read in more than one thread that putting a bigger sway bar in the rear would make the C6 oversteer also but I have not found that to be the case at all. So each persons driving style may get a different end result. Having bought this car and before I had 200 miles on it, I decided to go straight to ASP so I never tried just the front sway bar but I have never seen a car that a bigger front bar didn't help.
As for shocks, the C5Z and C6Z shocks are pretty damn good out of the box that is why I suggested them as a cheap alternative to spending 1K on something else when the OP said he was mainly there to have fun. Like I said, I have them and am currently happy with them, a big improvement over the base shocks. I personally wouldn't spend big money on any shock unless it was at least a single adjustable.
I also know the person that pretty much developed the valving for the Koni C6 shocks and I will say there are supposed to be the shizzle.
As for shocks, the C5Z and C6Z shocks are pretty damn good out of the box that is why I suggested them as a cheap alternative to spending 1K on something else when the OP said he was mainly there to have fun. Like I said, I have them and am currently happy with them, a big improvement over the base shocks. I personally wouldn't spend big money on any shock unless it was at least a single adjustable.
I also know the person that pretty much developed the valving for the Koni C6 shocks and I will say there are supposed to be the shizzle.