Brake Component Temps?
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Brake Component Temps?
I'm rebuilding my suspension ('02 Z06, poly everywhere) and am cleaning up many of the pieces and painting some of them. Such as the exposed hub flanges when not running center caps, axle nut, rotor face, etc. I chose some 500* high temp engine paint, however now I'm wondering if I should have gone with the 1,500* stuff.
What temps will these pieces reach? I have already done the rear parts, the fronts are next.
I mostly Auto-X the car out here in California, temps can be in the 11x's or as low as 40*. I also want to get back out and do more HPDE's.
I am running stock/Napa rotors and Porterfield R4S pads.
Thoughts?
What temps will these pieces reach? I have already done the rear parts, the fronts are next.
I mostly Auto-X the car out here in California, temps can be in the 11x's or as low as 40*. I also want to get back out and do more HPDE's.
I am running stock/Napa rotors and Porterfield R4S pads.
Thoughts?
#2
Melting Slicks
waaaaaaaaay hotter than 500 degrees.
I got someone with an IR temp reader to check the rotors on my sti after a 25 minute session. the faces were 790 degrees, the centers were 500. This is on a stock car with stock brakes.
My vette can create enough heat to make the front rotors glow red hot.
IMO dont bother painting anything. its not worth it, the paint will flake off no matter how high of a temp rating it is.
I got someone with an IR temp reader to check the rotors on my sti after a 25 minute session. the faces were 790 degrees, the centers were 500. This is on a stock car with stock brakes.
My vette can create enough heat to make the front rotors glow red hot.
IMO dont bother painting anything. its not worth it, the paint will flake off no matter how high of a temp rating it is.
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
Hmm, so now the issue would be stripping the paint off (and using what?) Or letting the paint stay on the rears and what would happen? Flake off and look ugly? Melt and ruin brake pads?
I guess I might look into those rotor "caps" to keep things looking pretty when not on the track, or maybe at least for Auto-X and on the trailer?
I guess I might look into those rotor "caps" to keep things looking pretty when not on the track, or maybe at least for Auto-X and on the trailer?
#6
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2003
Location: Raleigh / Rolesville NC
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Forget the rotor caps too. Those are for the bling crowd.
besides after an event they will be so frick'n dirty and you will be so tired with a big on your face and you wont care what other ppl think
besides after an event they will be so frick'n dirty and you will be so tired with a big on your face and you wont care what other ppl think
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
It's not about other people... it is taking pride in one's own work/possessions. I like to keep my stuff clean and I can't stand a nice car in great condition having rusty parts showing...
So, it sounds like rotor caps for street/cruise use and rusty Napa rotors for auto-X and track duty.
#8
Team Owner
I have a rust phobia with metal things I own Trouble is I have 800 scaffold frames and all the accessories and it is an endless battle. I painted my hubs with POR15.
#10
Race Director
I just wipe a little anti-seize on that part after getting the rust off. VHT has a 1,500° paint, Summit has it. Make sure to bake it in correctly.
#11
Racer
Thread Starter
I wonder if I could get the rotors zinc or cad plated???? The pads would "wipe" the plating off the surface that they touch and the rest of the rotor would stay "nice" then?
If I got to HPDE then I would burn through rotors fairly quickly, however I haven't been on track since '02 or '03. I've been Auto-Xing a ton, drag race occasionally and street drive infrequently.
Anti seize??? That stuff seems too liquidy and seems like it would melt and run all over... Even a thin film of it.
I guess I'll buy a new pair of Napa rotors and throw them on, take a wire wheel to the "new" rotors I just painted and keep as spares...
I need to get a set of the new "hotness" brake pads for track use. Supposed to stop better then PFC 01's not eat rotors, and last forever...
If I got to HPDE then I would burn through rotors fairly quickly, however I haven't been on track since '02 or '03. I've been Auto-Xing a ton, drag race occasionally and street drive infrequently.
Anti seize??? That stuff seems too liquidy and seems like it would melt and run all over... Even a thin film of it.
I guess I'll buy a new pair of Napa rotors and throw them on, take a wire wheel to the "new" rotors I just painted and keep as spares...
I need to get a set of the new "hotness" brake pads for track use. Supposed to stop better then PFC 01's not eat rotors, and last forever...
#12
Melting Slicks
I wonder if I could get the rotors zinc or cad plated???? The pads would "wipe" the plating off the surface that they touch and the rest of the rotor would stay "nice" then?
If I got to HPDE then I would burn through rotors fairly quickly, however I haven't been on track since '02 or '03. I've been Auto-Xing a ton, drag race occasionally and street drive infrequently.
Anti seize??? That stuff seems too liquidy and seems like it would melt and run all over... Even a thin film of it.
I guess I'll buy a new pair of Napa rotors and throw them on, take a wire wheel to the "new" rotors I just painted and keep as spares...
I need to get a set of the new "hotness" brake pads for track use. Supposed to stop better then PFC 01's not eat rotors, and last forever...
If I got to HPDE then I would burn through rotors fairly quickly, however I haven't been on track since '02 or '03. I've been Auto-Xing a ton, drag race occasionally and street drive infrequently.
Anti seize??? That stuff seems too liquidy and seems like it would melt and run all over... Even a thin film of it.
I guess I'll buy a new pair of Napa rotors and throw them on, take a wire wheel to the "new" rotors I just painted and keep as spares...
I need to get a set of the new "hotness" brake pads for track use. Supposed to stop better then PFC 01's not eat rotors, and last forever...
I just put Autozone blanks on the Z06, and they get ugly but do the job.
-TJ
#14
Burning Brakes
GET brake ducts, that should be mandatory really..
I am cracking slotted rotors every 6~ 30min runs cause I was too much of a cheap skate and never setup mine.
You can't go wrong with too much cooling!
I am cracking slotted rotors every 6~ 30min runs cause I was too much of a cheap skate and never setup mine.
You can't go wrong with too much cooling!
#15
Race Director
I wonder if I could get the rotors zinc or cad plated???? The pads would "wipe" the plating off the surface that they touch and the rest of the rotor would stay "nice" then?
If I got to HPDE then I would burn through rotors fairly quickly, however I haven't been on track since '02 or '03. I've been Auto-Xing a ton, drag race occasionally and street drive infrequently.
Anti seize??? That stuff seems too liquidy and seems like it would melt and run all over... Even a thin film of it.
I guess I'll buy a new pair of Napa rotors and throw them on, take a wire wheel to the "new" rotors I just painted and keep as spares...
I need to get a set of the new "hotness" brake pads for track use. Supposed to stop better then PFC 01's not eat rotors, and last forever...
If I got to HPDE then I would burn through rotors fairly quickly, however I haven't been on track since '02 or '03. I've been Auto-Xing a ton, drag race occasionally and street drive infrequently.
Anti seize??? That stuff seems too liquidy and seems like it would melt and run all over... Even a thin film of it.
I guess I'll buy a new pair of Napa rotors and throw them on, take a wire wheel to the "new" rotors I just painted and keep as spares...
I need to get a set of the new "hotness" brake pads for track use. Supposed to stop better then PFC 01's not eat rotors, and last forever...