H1ghlndr

Guys,

I am going to be trailering to this summers HPDEs so I need some help with purchase....

What are pros and cons of open vs. enclosed trailers?

What is best size for C6Z?

Thanks in advance!

Wicked Weasel

I would start with your Tow vehicle first - that will help dictate which kind of trailer you will want to get.

Either kind of trailer will do the job though. Enclosed you can pack more stuff in and of course your car and stuff is inside out of sight and thus somewhat more protected.

Open trailers are lighter and easier to tow. I have a tire rack built on mine and since I have a Trailblazer SS for towing I can fit the rest of my stuff inside without an issue.

AU N EGL

If your looking for a trailer a few things to keep in mind

1.Wt Bob said above - what is your tow vehical

2.Trailer axle wt. those axls need to carey the trailer, your car and junk

double 3500 for an open trailer and double 5000 min for a closed trailer

there are other things too. But most think those are the first two to look at

Datawiz

Don't rule out renting your trailer as you need it.

I rent this trailer for $53 per weekend including tax. I pick it up anytime on Friday and drop it off anytime on Monday. I don't worry about storing it, insurance, maintenance, ...

They even put a new one in service half way through the season after they sold the previous one.

It's about a $7,000 trailer retail. It was originally $79/weekend, but I'm now getting a high volume usage discount.

SouthernSon

I had an enclosed but sold it and bought an open trailer. My thoughts; I realized I don't have to take everything plus the kitchen sink because I only do HPDE's. If I were to race W2W in some series for points, then a breakdown at the track would need to be addressed immediately. However, just doing HPDE's, I can simply load up the car and bring it home to work on at my leisure. Fuel mileage is much better with open trailer. I now get 14 to 15 vice 10 with enclosed trailer. My duramax has only 26 gallon tank so I have to refuel often. The 18' open is so much easier to maneuver than the 24' enclosed around fuel pumps. I have a camper on back so my few items are kept under lock and key. I used to think enclosed was the greatest thing since sliced bread, ......and it is for some. I have now changed my way of thinking for my particular circumstances for the reasons above.

97C5inSD

As the others have said all depends on the pickup you own.
and how much room you have to store the the trailer.

Enclosed are nice and keep your stuff and car away from prying eyes. Granted if people want something they will get it one way or another. they also help keep your car outta the weather and are great as a second garage if your car will reside there between the events but with yours i doubt it will.

Cons Take up more room, take more fuel to pull. and makes it a bit harder to get in and outta the car unless you get proper doors installed and such.

Also depending on how much stuff you plan to take with you to the track 20ft will get you by just fine.

On open trailers 18ft at least. and you can easily build a tire rack on them or tool box if you get a 20ft to store some extra tools in. they also will pull alittle easier so better mileage con, everyone and there dog can see it and posssibly get something off of it. But who knows. Other cons is the car is now exposed to the eliments bad weather and what not.

CodeBlack

I am also in the market and face the same decision. One of my concerns is the length of the ramps on the open. I hate the thought of having to deal with wood to make the ramp angle better in order to get the C6Z06 on the trailer. I've seen ramp extensions on the enclosed that can handle the low height of a race car but haven't seen them for an open trailer. Also you can get ramp overs with an escape door so that you can open your door with an enclosed.

AU N EGL

the BIGGER the trailer the more JUNK you WILL carry with you.

When I was looking at trailers a friend of mine said if you can afford an enclosed trailer get one.

When you get home from a race, if you need to you can just lock the trailer up and not worry. If you have an open trailer you need to put everything away.

and events were it rains, you have some shelter, or you can lock all your stuff up at the event too.

H1ghlndr

Guys,

Thanks for all the replies. Lots of good stuff. I have a new Suburban so I can load it up with lots of stuff if need be. I am leaning towards an open, but there a lot of good deals on used enclosed on EBay.

Any more thoughts?

Thanks!

fatbillybob

Electric trailer brakes no surge brakes! My trailer is for sale in Ca.. I added custom removable tongue so it can be put in a garage with the racecar on top and be able to close my garage door. You need this feature unless you got plenty of place to store. Enclosed is the best but they are a pain to tow because they are so big and they are a pain to store. You can sell an open trailer in good shape for about what you pay for them. Enclosed trailers are cheap like RV's are used. I would never buy a new enclosed trailer just too much $ you will never see again. I'd rather save the $ for race tires. I also tow with a 2500 suburban. We got lots of hills around here. The sub tows like it is not there. I like my tongue weight on the heavy side. Some say 15% of the weight I do 20% minimum because it cuts down on sway especially on the windy passes we have around here. Get a winch too. I run a winch and they are a lifesaver especially if you are a 1 man show and you save the clutch and your nerves trying to get the car on that perfect spot on the trailer. Also get a dovetail they are lower in the rear for the vettes to get on. I added 6ft of extra ramp so I don't have to use lumber on my lowered C5Z.

Bill Dearborn

Extended ramps on an open trailer are no problem. The right dealer will be able to weld some up for you as part of the purchase price. (I can even recommend a dealer near me who as of last year had the lowest prices on Bri-Mar trailers in the upstate area and did the ramps on my trailer). Have them add the tire rack at the same time. I am not home at the current time but if you want to search the forum for some trailer posts I made you should find some pictures of the ramps I have been using on my trailer since 1993.

Bill

Wicked Weasel

or you can go with a rollback open trailer which doesnt need ramps.

c4cruiser

Choosing the right tow vehicle is a very important if not a first step. The truck wil have to carry not only the weight of the car and trailer but everything you take to the event. Tools, tires, luggage, wife and/or girlfriend, the kids, the dog, will quickly add to the weight.

Trailer tongue weight is important too. Tongue weight is typically 10-15% of the weight of the car and trailer. So add that to anything in the truck.

With most open trailers, you can use a 1/2 ton truck. If you go with an enclosed trailer, then a 3/4 ton is preferable. With an open trailer, you may not need a weight distributing hitch; with an enclosed trailer, you will need that and an anti-sway bar.

A good trailer brake controller is an absolute. A typical car trailer will have electric brakes on both axles. Some states will require that on trailers over a certain weight/length so check your state laws.

Here's my setup:


08 Silverado LTZ with 6.0L motor. The trailer is steel and weighs 2000lbs. The 87 weighs about 3400. I can easily carry another 750lbs in the truck and not be over 80% of the maximum cargo weight of the truck

I built the tire rack from 4 8' pieces of 1.5" exhaust pipe. The tool box came from Lowes; it's one that fits on the side of a pickup bed.

The nice thing about an enclosed trailer is that you have security, you can also use it for shelter or storage.

MJM

I can fit my motorcycle in the front and my C5 over the axles in my 24' enclosed trailer.

I recommend getting the heavy duty axles (5200 lbs each) for any enclosed trailer. That way you have up to a 10,000lb capacity. It sounds like overkill but your car is 3,300 lbs and the trailer will be several thousands pounds too. So if you get the smaller axles you will be at your limit with just the car in the trailer. That leaves no weight for tools, spare wheels, etc.

Be sure to get trailer tires. I think they are E rated or something. Basically you can air them up to 80 psi cold and they will support a maxed out 10,000 lb trailer.

Poor-sha

I'm in the market too. Short-Throw has me sold on an gooseneck for the added stability. I have a 3500HD dually to pull it with and I'm thinking something in the 32'-26' range. There are so many options and prices vary so much that I'm just sitting on the fence until I ffind the right deal.

cebars

What's the difference in the weight of an enclosed aluminum vs steel trailer...e.g. Featherlite 24' vs Haul-mark 24'?

Are any of the frames on other than the Featherlite aluminum?

What's the diffrence in weight between an enclosed trailer and the same length of open trailer?

trackboss

I can tell you the featherlite's feel very light. I have towed my open trailer for years and this year I purchased a used featherlite enclosed "V" nose. I measures about 22' on the inside. It weighs down the back of my truck less than the open trailer. I always use a weight distribution hitch and I tow with a silverado 1500. Awesome trailer.

Z07coupe

I bought a new cheap trailer. I was in a hurry and should have done my homework. A lower lighter trailer would have been better. As you can see from the photos, I had to raise the tracks 2" to open my door, (which I expected), but another 2" to prevent my air dam from chaffing the tie down straps. The wood on the dovetail is again to provide clearance. I added another foot onto the cheap ramps , again due to rubbing the air dam. Did I mention the cheap ramps flexing? so we reinforced them. Since the ramps have dropped off (after loading), We welded tabs on the ramps to secure with bolts. They were already heavy before adding and reinforcing them, but now are really heavy. The large storage box was given to me, saving hundreds of dollars, but don't think a thick wall 2" square tubing tire rack is cheap. And all I had to buy was the steel, my friend welded it up for free. I hated driving onto the trailer ( partially due to the clutch) so I may get a good winch sometime.
But after all my complaining, each problem has been corrected, one way or another. But two things cannot be corrected. The weight issues of the trailer and ramps, and it's still a cheap trailer.
I would suggest loading your car onto any trailer you are considering before writing a check. A lightweight low or tilt bed trailer is a good thing. I tow with a two wheel drive '05 Avalanche, 5.3, auto, ? 3.42 gears. It does pretty well, but 10 mpg prevents long excursions.
Consider the quality of the paint, wiring, lights, ramps, and tie down points. All the other posts have good suggstions.

AU N EGL

What is that Suburbans tow capacity?

Is that a 1500 or 2500 suburban?


my 1500 HD is just bearly enough towing capasity. It is ok on the highway at 55 mph, forget 65 unless it is down hill on smooth roads. Now if a 18 wheeler passes me, if I dont move over to the right, I am doing the wiggle dance, truck going one way, the trailer going the other way, right foot on the gas, left foot on the brake.

I have a 24 foot enclosed Pace Pursuit. the trailer weighs in at 3300 lbs, car at 3200 lbs 500 lbs of junk( at least.

My trailer has 3500 axles, or 7000 lbs capacity. I am right at or over my capacity for the trailer and the truck.

Now that said, I take my time to and from events, when ever I go over mountains, I slow down to go up and down in 2nd gear. Three years, I think I have 11,000 or so miles on the trailer. No flats, check and adjust the brakes several times a year.

Change the trucks brake fluid almost as much as the cars, or before any major distance tow.
Trans and diff fluids are changed in the truck each winter too. Synthtic here too.

I have a anti sway hitch, and run 4 psi less in the front two tires on the trailer.

I get 11.5 mpg towing, on the flats or in the mountains. Short hills are the hardest on the truck

H1ghlndr

My suburban is a 2008 Z71 1500 4wd. It has 3.73 rear end and I think it is rated at 7100lbs. I think that is mostly due to the rear suspension being coils.

Thanks for all the replies! Great info here.

AU N EGL: Would you have considered a 20ft over the 24?

For those that have open trailers, what is the preferred dovetail (or is it beavertail) aluminum trailer?

Thanks!