RedLS1GTO

I apologize if this has been covered but search isn't working for me today. I am working on getting my winter purchase ready for full time track duty. It is a 96 with Greenwood body parts. Has anybody found a good way to cool the brakes on these things? Honestly with the cold weather I'm in right now I am predicting possible problems and trying to fix them in advance rather than trying to react once a problem happens. Any previous experience or parts available are much appreciated.

The weather really needs to get warmer quick! I want to drive rather than buy parts that I may or may not even need!

WNDOPDLR

I removed my turn signal assy and had a local heating shop build funnel shaped box that I mounted in the back of the opening. Hi temp tubing from the back of the box directly onto the rotor. Seems to work well.

Sidney004

You need to use spindle ducts, don't just route a hose toward the back of the rotor. I bought my spindle ducts from ZR1 MK, if you do a search you will see photos of this setup. I observed a reduction of rotor surface temperature(infrared pyrometer, not conclusive back to back tests) when I switched from enclosed Sawblades to 18" ZO6 wheels.

Aardwolf

My air dam was damaged when I got my car so I replaced it with a new air dam that had build in ducts. If your air dam is in good shape, add in some NACA ducts. I would like to put on spindle ducts but haven't had time to make some yet. These ducts do help!







You could add NACA ducts to the nose as well, like this:

RedLS1GTO

Thanks for the advice guys I suppose it wouldn't be hard to route the ducting like in your last pic. The problem that I am having is where to actually pull the air from. I would like to avoid cutting on body parts if at all possible. I suppose I could go from each side of the "mouth" and route the hosing from there.

BrianCunningham

Here's a MAD kit routing, not that I'm recommending a MAD kit

Kubs

Is that your car Brian? Do you have a picture from the side? How does the tire not rub the hose when turned?

eogel

redls1gto,

As I recall from earlier posts, your C4 is a dedicated track car. If so, you can replace the front parking lights with intake scoops and you will get all of the air you will need. With the body kit on the car, it is more difficult than just running ducts from the air dam across the bottom.

I used the headlight openings on my race car. In your case, if the headlights are functional, but not required for driving, you can convet them to air intakes. I have done that also. Looks a little funky, but the brakes will definitely stay cool. Can provide pictures if you are serious about going in either of these directions.

As you suggested, you can trap air in the cooling intake opening, but it will not be anywhere near the same volume and may not provide the solution you are looking for.
Ed

RedLS1GTO

I want to keep the headlights functional, but would be interested in seeing what you have done with the parking lights. I was looking at this as well as it seems that it would be pretty simple to go through the parking lights, under the headlights and through the inner fenders. I would have to move my ignition box, but that's no biggie. The problem I was seeing is how to keep the ducting out of the way of the tires when they are turned since I am running 315s on all 4 corners and don't have much room to spare.

the blur

this setup actually works quite well, if you point the hose towards the center of the rotor, and not the inside face of the rotor.
I hardly crack a rotor since I pointed the hose at the center.

BrianCunningham

I helped put it on someone elses.

I've got the same kit, haven't installed it yet.

Kubs

I currently routed mine along the lower a-arm and it rubs when the tire is turned. I was wondering if having it up more it rubs or not.

Aardwolf

Are my pix not working? It doesn't rub like how I have it shown on the LCA.

Kubs

No they are working. I routed mine just like yours, but when I turn the wheel it pinches the hose about where it passes the sway bar link. I am also using 3" hose instead of 2.5", but the wheel come close to the hose. I am using 17x11 ZR1 style wheels, and my street wheels are 17x10.5 so maybe its the wider wheel.

Aardwolf

Oval it just a little bit.

ZBRA

eogel

ZBRA has the same implementation I have, but a much cleaner execution. I did have ducts attached to the side turning light openings, but I was never convinced it produced a lot of air. They are now closed off, as well as the parking light openings. Front brakes are now fully cooled by dual NACA ducts in each of the headlight openings. I now have two 2.5" hoses to each front brake, which makes it a lot easier to route.

Ed

Locke

Brian
What size hose do you plan on running. Would 2.5" do?

Solo2GS

MAD kit is OK, just toss the plastic hosing and get some hi-temp rated hosing.

On my C4 I ran my hosing through the suspension and it works fine. Added some extra duct tape for padding where it touches parts so it doesn't wear any holes in it. Used lots of wire ties to keep it in place. Works fine!

Alternatively you can go to many race shops and get the front air ducts and cut them into an existing air damn. All in all its not that expensive to do and a must if you run high speed events!

BrianCunningham

To be honest I'll have to measure it.

The bigger the better when it comes to cooling.