Hoosier R6 Help
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Hoosier R6 Help
Had a question. I have a rub mark along the outer edge of my front right Hoosier R6 295/30/18 (same size as the Michelins Cups I had on which ran w/o issue). There are no cords showing---(tires only had 3 track days on them with wear dimple still very visible). I showed tire to Henry Gilbert he said that I was probably getting a rub going up the hill from T-12 or coming off the elevated back straight T-10. (All this is from Homestead only-went to Sebring last weekend and no problems). what do we need to do? raise car? I was thinking of remounting the tire so that the outside is now inside and switching right for left. what's the answer here. tires are mounted on ccw corsairs 18x 10.5".
Last edited by urslooow; 04-13-2009 at 09:05 AM. Reason: spelling
#3
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yes sounds like your doing a little fender rubbing.
If your car is lowered, put it back to stock ride height and re corner balance.
plus you may need stiffer springs or shocks.
But re mounting that tire is a good idea
It is quite common for one tire to ware out quicker then the others. Many ciruites are harder on one corner then the other.
If your car is lowered, put it back to stock ride height and re corner balance.
plus you may need stiffer springs or shocks.
But re mounting that tire is a good idea
It is quite common for one tire to ware out quicker then the others. Many ciruites are harder on one corner then the other.
#4
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
thanks I knew you would come up with a good answer. The event coordinater at Homestead said that it was common to see that because of the hills that the right side sees and not the left
Last edited by urslooow; 04-13-2009 at 09:05 AM. Reason: spell
#5
I have brand new springs for sale on this forum if you choose to go this route. I have the same problem with rub on my car at Watkins Glen. I decided to go with coil-overs after I purchased the springs...oops.
#6
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
got in touch with my suspension man. He reminded me that I didn't have a problem the first 2 days I ran Homestead with these tires and this setup and that b4 changing the ride height we should check the spring and Moton cannister pressurem on that side. going to the shop tomorrow will update
Last edited by urslooow; 04-13-2009 at 01:16 PM.
#7
Race Director
Hi Steve
What were you running at Daytona - the Cups?
I'm surprised you wouldn't have the same problem at Daytona if you're having it at Homestead.
What's your camber and what tire pressure were you running?
I think the Hoosiers can get a mark like that just from rolling over on the shoulder if the camber isn't cranked way in or if the pressure is low.
Bob
What were you running at Daytona - the Cups?
I'm surprised you wouldn't have the same problem at Daytona if you're having it at Homestead.
What's your camber and what tire pressure were you running?
I think the Hoosiers can get a mark like that just from rolling over on the shoulder if the camber isn't cranked way in or if the pressure is low.
Bob
#8
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
but I ran b4 at HMS same pressures and no mark. camber is -1.7 to -1.8. cold front pressure 28 gets up to 34 quickly. Brent thinks it could be the R frt spring or shock cannister. ran w/ Cups at Daytona no rubs same size fr4ont tire. what did Ron do for that rub he had? this is clearly a rub. the wear mark was rolling over a little onto the outer lettering so I increased the pressure a little. the rear wear mark is perfectly on the outer tread line.
#9
Race Director
but I ran b4 at HMS same pressures and no mark. camber is -1.7 to -1.8. cold front pressure 28 gets up to 34 quickly. Brent thinks it could be the R frt spring or shock cannister. ran w/ Cups at Daytona no rubs same size fr4ont tire. what did Ron do for that rub he had? this is clearly a rub. the wear mark was rolling over a little onto the outer lettering so I increased the pressure a little. the rear wear mark is perfectly on the outer tread line.
At Daytona I was on 325 Hoosiers and didn't have any rubbing from the edge of the fender, but the right rear did rub the inside and wore a hole in the liner. I have the stock suspension and ride height. With the Hoosier R6's, I run -2.5 camber in the front and about -1.5 in the rear, and hot pressures of about 40-42 psi:
You definitely load up the suspension when running on a banked track!
Bob
#10
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
OK here's the end of the problem. turns out it wasn't a rub at all since there was no rubber anywhere on the fender or wheel well. despite just 4 sessions it was just excessive wear on the outside of the tire causing the cords to be nearly visible. Solution ---go for the camber! -2.8. tire was rolling over too much. made the frt toe 0 to help reduce wear on the street tires
#11
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At Daytona Ron had some rubbing in the rear with 345 Hoosiers on CCW's. He switched to 325's on stock wheels, I believe.
At Daytona I was on 325 Hoosiers and didn't have any rubbing from the edge of the fender, but the right rear did rub the inside and wore a hole in the liner. I have the stock suspension and ride height. With the Hoosier R6's, I run -2.5 camber in the front and about -1.5 in the rear, and hot pressures of about 40-42 psi:
You definitely load up the suspension when running on a banked track!
Bob
At Daytona I was on 325 Hoosiers and didn't have any rubbing from the edge of the fender, but the right rear did rub the inside and wore a hole in the liner. I have the stock suspension and ride height. With the Hoosier R6's, I run -2.5 camber in the front and about -1.5 in the rear, and hot pressures of about 40-42 psi:
You definitely load up the suspension when running on a banked track!
Bob
Bob
a few years ago I meet LG at Lowe's motorspeedway in Concord NC for a night time SWGT race.
On the info sheet the Tech inspectors strongly suggested that for running on the Lowe's banking that a maximum of -1* of camber be used to prevent excessive tire ware.
Tom