VIR good to bed new pads??
06-25-2010, 04:34 PM
#1
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VIR good to bed new pads??
Got new rotors and new pads. Carbotech says track only for bedding. Anyone successfully bed new pads at VIR?
06-25-2010, 06:04 PM
#2
Burning Brakes
The bedding procedure is the same whether you're on a track or a road. I think Carbotech is just offering advice since bedding brakes on public roads may confuse other drivers or pedestrians.
I've seen people bed their brakes on the road at VIR betw the gate and the paddock. I don't know how VIR feels about this; it could lead to a discussion w/ officials.
I no longer sweat it w/ bedding pads. I'll go out in a normal session and bed the brakes. Come in early, stay out of traffic. There have been times I've gone from new pads to the grid to race w/o bedding and not had any trouble.
I've seen people bed their brakes on the road at VIR betw the gate and the paddock. I don't know how VIR feels about this; it could lead to a discussion w/ officials.
I no longer sweat it w/ bedding pads. I'll go out in a normal session and bed the brakes. Come in early, stay out of traffic. There have been times I've gone from new pads to the grid to race w/o bedding and not had any trouble.
06-25-2010, 06:15 PM
#3
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I've had different results with different pads and just can't seem to find the ideal situation. I have roilled smoke out from Hawk, crumbled wilwoods into dust, smeared EBC and glazed a dozen rotors or more. I guess I'll have to run a few laps and see what happens, let them cool and see if the rotors are glazed. Of course, after the first fade I get to come in and listen for the new rotor to crack. 
06-25-2010, 08:17 PM
#7
Burning Brakes
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I've been racing on Carbs for 5 years now. What I have found is that all you really need to do with them is transfer a bit of pad material onto the rotor. This can easily be done on the first lap or 2. Just work the brake on and off for the lap to put some heat and material on them, then run the next lap or 2 without touching the brake for some cooling. You will be fine after that. More often than not I have actually gone out on new rotors and pads and the bedding process was the race, or pad transfer was done with 15-0 stops in the paddock ( away from everyone ) and still no issues.
Joe
06-25-2010, 11:38 PM
#8
Safety Car
Bedding pads? I just put them on and haul ***.
Tim
Tim
Art,
I've been racing on Carbs for 5 years now. What I have found is that all you really need to do with them is transfer a bit of pad material onto the rotor. This can easily be done on the first lap or 2. Just work the brake on and off for the lap to put some heat and material on them, then run the next lap or 2 without touching the brake for some cooling. You will be fine after that. More often than not I have actually gone out on new rotors and pads and the bedding process was the race, or pad transfer was done with 15-0 stops in the paddock ( away from everyone ) and still no issues.
Joe
I've been racing on Carbs for 5 years now. What I have found is that all you really need to do with them is transfer a bit of pad material onto the rotor. This can easily be done on the first lap or 2. Just work the brake on and off for the lap to put some heat and material on them, then run the next lap or 2 without touching the brake for some cooling. You will be fine after that. More often than not I have actually gone out on new rotors and pads and the bedding process was the race, or pad transfer was done with 15-0 stops in the paddock ( away from everyone ) and still no issues.
Joe
06-26-2010, 02:27 AM
#11
Le Mans Master
06-26-2010, 07:11 AM
#12
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Oakie Dokie! I am gonna run 'em hot for a few laps and then come in to let them cool and if they glaze over, smolder and crumble I will blame it on all my friends! 
06-26-2010, 08:50 AM
#14
Team Owner
rotors / pads will not last as long if you just go to the track and hammer them no matter how expensive they are. They need bedded the day before pads and rotors. Have I taken stuff out and hammered it yes but it cost you in the long run.
06-26-2010, 08:50 AM
#15
Team Owner
I've had different results with different pads and just can't seem to find the ideal situation. I have roilled smoke out from Hawk, crumbled wilwoods into dust, smeared EBC and glazed a dozen rotors or more. I guess I'll have to run a few laps and see what happens, let them cool and see if the rotors are glazed. Of course, after the first fade I get to come in and listen for the new rotor to crack.
06-26-2010, 03:19 PM
#16
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A's ? I forget. Actually, my pad experience has not really been that consistent no matter the brand. I try to bed correctly. I have followed Hawk's recommendation of taping up the ducts and progressively slow from higher speeds. I have gone to fade with most pads and cooled at least 30, etc... Of course, cycling and down time between events might also contribute to the problem. yeah? and my rotors are from here and there, also. Well, I now see my problem; I need to be more consistent with procedure and discriminate with all equipment and keep records of experience better. 
06-26-2010, 04:20 PM
#17
Team Owner
A's ? I forget. Actually, my pad experience has not really been that consistent no matter the brand. I try to bed correctly. I have followed Hawk's recommendation of taping up the ducts and progressively slow from higher speeds. I have gone to fade with most pads and cooled at least 30, etc... Of course, cycling and down time between events might also contribute to the problem. yeah? and my rotors are from here and there, also. Well, I now see my problem; I need to be more consistent with procedure and discriminate with all equipment and keep records of experience better.
06-26-2010, 06:10 PM
#18
Le Mans Master
They'll sometimes have a good bit of vibration under hard braking the first lap or 2, but that goes away or maybe I don't notice it after that.
06-26-2010, 06:42 PM
#19
Racer
"A" pad is still their highest temp/highest bite pad
things eat rotors like made, like a lathe
they work awesome though
one of those "these teams used X pad/caliper" posts that Gary H. posted last year still had a ton of Cup teams using the "A" pad.
things eat rotors like made, like a lathe
they work awesome though
one of those "these teams used X pad/caliper" posts that Gary H. posted last year still had a ton of Cup teams using the "A" pad.