DIY Question front alignment
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Member Since: Aug 2006
Location: Royal Oaks Ca
Posts: 116
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
DIY Question front alignment
I'm going to do my own front camber & toe adjustments after adding coilovers & control arm bearings. I'm going to use a lift, but know that the suspension must "settle" ( rolling car back & forth) when placed back on gound before remeasuring adjustments.
Question is has anyone had experience using the Longacre Side Slip Plate/Rollers for settling the suspension instead of rolling?
http://www.longacreracing.com/catalo...id=183&catid=2
They advise to use them when corner weighting with scales, but I think they might eliminate having to roll to settle the positive camber produced by lifting the car.
Any comments or experience would be appreciated.
Question is has anyone had experience using the Longacre Side Slip Plate/Rollers for settling the suspension instead of rolling?
http://www.longacreracing.com/catalo...id=183&catid=2
They advise to use them when corner weighting with scales, but I think they might eliminate having to roll to settle the positive camber produced by lifting the car.
Any comments or experience would be appreciated.
#2
I'm going to do my own front camber & toe adjustments after adding coilovers & control arm bearings. I'm going to use a lift, but know that the suspension must "settle" ( rolling car back & forth) when placed back on gound before remeasuring adjustments.
Question is has anyone had experience using the Longacre Side Slip Plate/Rollers for settling the suspension instead of rolling?
http://www.longacreracing.com/catalo...id=183&catid=2
They advise to use them when corner weighting with scales, but I think they might eliminate having to roll to settle the positive camber produced by lifting the car.
Any comments or experience would be appreciated.
Question is has anyone had experience using the Longacre Side Slip Plate/Rollers for settling the suspension instead of rolling?
http://www.longacreracing.com/catalo...id=183&catid=2
They advise to use them when corner weighting with scales, but I think they might eliminate having to roll to settle the positive camber produced by lifting the car.
Any comments or experience would be appreciated.
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
Member Since: Aug 2006
Location: Royal Oaks Ca
Posts: 116
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have used slip plates and a lift as you suggest for years on coil over cars with no problem. With vettes it is impossible!!! You got to roll it alot like even drive around the block. It is an all day process with a vette. The problem is huge stichion in the rubber bushings especially in the connection of the springs to the LCA platform. .
I hate driving around, so time consuming.
#4
Drifting
What I've done (poor man's method) works well, but can be kind of nerve racking the first time or two. I jack the car up, then place 2 cinder blocks side by side under each tire. I then put two ceramic smooth-faced tiles face to face with grease between them to act as cheap slip plates. Then lower the car down on the assembly (NOTE: MUST LEVEL THE BLOCKS AND TILES WITH SHIMS - if you don't the car will start to slide on it's own). Then I bounce each corner of the car to get it to settle. It's not 100% perfect, but I've managed to get nearly perfect tire wear and contact patch temps with my Aggie alignment.
FWIW, on most race cars with a proper track-side alignment rig with slip plates, etc, they still roll the car and bounce the corners to ensure it's settled.
FWIW, on most race cars with a proper track-side alignment rig with slip plates, etc, they still roll the car and bounce the corners to ensure it's settled.
#5
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Oct 1999
Location: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
Posts: 40,094
Received 8,928 Likes
on
5,333 Posts
What I've done (poor man's method) works well, but can be kind of nerve racking the first time or two. I jack the car up, then place 2 cinder blocks side by side under each tire. I then put two ceramic smooth-faced tiles face to face with grease between them to act as cheap slip plates. Then lower the car down on the assembly (NOTE: MUST LEVEL THE BLOCKS AND TILES WITH SHIMS - if you don't the car will start to slide on it's own). Then I bounce each corner of the car to get it to settle. It's not 100% perfect, but I've managed to get nearly perfect tire wear and contact patch temps with my Aggie alignment.
FWIW, on most race cars with a proper track-side alignment rig with slip plates, etc, they still roll the car and bounce the corners to ensure it's settled.
FWIW, on most race cars with a proper track-side alignment rig with slip plates, etc, they still roll the car and bounce the corners to ensure it's settled.
Bill
#7
Instructor
Thread Starter
Member Since: Aug 2006
Location: Royal Oaks Ca
Posts: 116
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts