Cracks in decklid repair question
#1
Racer
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Member Since: Oct 2006
Location: Australia Victoria
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Cracks in decklid repair question
Would you:
a) Grind it right out and reglass the whole section
b) Sand it back and fill the cracks with resin
c) simply fill with body filler and then paint
I have several of these cracks all over my 1970 deck lid and I'm not sure what is the best way to appraoch the repair. I'm thinking to fill with resin but I'll throw it out there and see what the general opinion is.
a) Grind it right out and reglass the whole section
b) Sand it back and fill the cracks with resin
c) simply fill with body filler and then paint
I have several of these cracks all over my 1970 deck lid and I'm not sure what is the best way to appraoch the repair. I'm thinking to fill with resin but I'll throw it out there and see what the general opinion is.
#2
Melting Slicks
Shattered glass will always crack again unless it is ground out and repaired correctly. Don't waste your time trying anything else unless you enjoy redoing things monthly.
#3
Race Director
I have seen this same type of "cracking" numerous times in the past. I have even gone as far as installing a much longer bolt...and using its length as leverage to see if the fiberglass is actually stressed. In many cases it was not...and for some odd reason...these corners crack. The underside of the hoods do it alo at the hinge areas and latch areas. It is your choice on repair method. I use a product that I know that you can not get in Australia...like I tried to get to you in the past. So carefully grinding these cracks out and checking to see if there is actually stress cracks going all the way though the panel. Then apply matt and resin carefully and go from there. It may just be an outer layer of the fiberglass that is stressed enough to crack...and I have many times "popped" it off with a screwdriver...and the fiberglass underneath was fine. You may find that it is a major saturation of resin in this area...and not so much fiberglass material that caused these cracks. Too much resin and NO fiberglass material will cause this issue.
"DUB"
"DUB"
#5
I know there are some other Porsche guys in here...attached is a little eye candy on the flares. When the car was set to a 'drivable' ride height, the rear tire opening looked like it was ready to go off roading. The front fenders are steel, so they should be a bit easier to weld on. Car now sits on 345 section tires, and is 82 inches wide at the rear. All in took about 8 hours to make both sides. When it is done, we may scan it and make some proper fenders and convert a second car.
But for now, we need to get through this fiberglass-to-steel thing and I hope someone here can tell me either 'don't do it' or 'do it like this and pray to the Gods of Refinishing.
But for now, we need to get through this fiberglass-to-steel thing and I hope someone here can tell me either 'don't do it' or 'do it like this and pray to the Gods of Refinishing.