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Removing paint in hard places

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Old 09-03-2014, 05:08 PM
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PierreOlivier
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Default Removing paint in hard places

I have a 1965 Convertible that I am doing a body off restoration on (as a driver). How do you strip the paint off of and out of the front door pillars; where the door hinges are located. So far I have had to use paint remover, razor blades, lacquer thinner and a lot of cursing to some of the paint so far. Will I need to use some form of media blasting?
Old 09-03-2014, 05:45 PM
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DUB
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Are you talking about the inner area that you can see...that the hinge folds back into??? Like where your door jamb switch is located???

I prefer NOT to use any media if at all possible. Mainly due to ...it does not mater how much you blow and vacuum this area out...my luck...that when it was primed and sealed, etc,...when I went to shoot paint....the media would come out....or wait for the clear to be applied.

I do use media in 'hard to get' areas....especially when I have already removed some of the paint with chemical stripper.

DUB
Old 09-04-2014, 01:33 AM
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PierreOlivier
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Originally Posted by DUB
Are you talking about the inner area that you can see...that the hinge folds back into??? Like where your door jamb switch is located???

I prefer NOT to use any media if at all possible. Mainly due to ...it does not mater how much you blow and vacuum this area out...my luck...that when it was primed and sealed, etc,...when I went to shoot paint....the media would come out....or wait for the clear to be applied.

I do use media in 'hard to get' areas....especially when I have already removed some of the paint with chemical stripper.

DUB
Hey Dub,

I am talking about area where the hinges, jamb switch, and electrical for the electric windows go. Any advice?
Old 09-04-2014, 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by PierreOlivier
Hey Dub,

I am talking about area where the hinges, jamb switch, and electrical for the electric windows go. Any advice?
So you are talking about the inner 'pocket areas'...that you can see when the door is OPEN...obviously....and see the jamb switch.

I use chemical VERY CAREFULLY. Like I wrote...using any media ...for me...seems to be more of a pain in the backside than spending the time using chemical and NOT having to worry about media coming out and getting in my primer paint and clear.

DUB
Old 09-04-2014, 09:19 PM
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PUNISHER VETTE
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I'd try DUBs suggestion first as I'm sure I'll be cursing myself when I go to paint for the very reasons he states.

BUT... using media has been by far the best thing EVER!!!!

not only on paint but on my stock undercoating on my '69 that I would have spent months sanding before I could get into the nooks and crannies it was in.

I used Captain Lee's on the outside panels but it did nothing on undercoating or the factor red primmer and I had to compromise and would do it again unless painting is as much of a pain as DUB says it could be.

I also found chemical was very hard to deal with in tight areas.





Old 09-05-2014, 04:19 PM
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PierreOlivier
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I do have to agree with Punisher primarily on hard to get to places like the one I originally started this thread with. I will start with remover and go from there - uggghhh

My other issue is that I have only been able to find one place in the San Fernando Valley, CA (or close) that does media blasting and has experience with Corvettes - Ajax Blasting. The problem is that Ajax won't do smaller individual pieces like a door or hood; they want to do big jobs because they have to switch over their equipment from sandblasting.

Does anyone know of another place near me (West Hills, CA - 91304)?
Old 09-05-2014, 06:36 PM
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I AGREE that media blasting is GREAT...because I use it like I wrote...BUT...in my opinion...there are some areas that I WILL NOT media blast due to the previous problems that I had mentioned. The hinge posts on a C2 and a C3 can not be remotely considered the same.

TRUST ME ...media blasting a pre-1968 Corvette is COMPLETELY DIFFERENT...and can not be grouped in with a C3. Pluses and minuses in both eras.

PierreOliver...Best of luck...and you can not say that you were not warned.

DUB
Old 09-05-2014, 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by DUB
I AGREE that media blasting is GREAT...because I use it like I wrote...BUT...in my opinion...there are some areas that I WILL NOT media blast due to the previous problems that I had mentioned. The hinge posts on a C2 and a C3 can not be remotely considered the same.

TRUST ME ...media blasting a pre-1968 Corvette is COMPLETELY DIFFERENT...and can not be grouped in with a C3. Pluses and minuses in both eras.

PierreOliver...Best of luck...and you can not say that you were not warned.

DUB
Thanks DUB. Would you feel differently if the media was plastic or glass or dry ice or walnuts?
Old 09-06-2014, 05:59 PM
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I have not used the 'dry ice' method. I would prefer it over any other form of media in this area. Media that is actually a solid material (sand, plastic, etc) will stay behind and collect up. The dry ice will go away..so the only thing left would be the residue of the blasting...paint flakes , etc. WHICH can also blow out when painting is talking place.

I have blown out 'pocket areas' with a vacuum cleaner there also. Under high pressure and low pressure. And the funny thing is that the vortex of the air during painting will often disturb 'stuff' that would not get removed during the clean-up....and show up when paint is being applied.

DUB
Old 09-09-2014, 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by DUB
I have not used the 'dry ice' method. I would prefer it over any other form of media in this area. Media that is actually a solid material (sand, plastic, etc) will stay behind and collect up. The dry ice will go away..so the only thing left would be the residue of the blasting...paint flakes , etc. WHICH can also blow out when painting is talking place.

I have blown out 'pocket areas' with a vacuum cleaner there also. Under high pressure and low pressure. And the funny thing is that the vortex of the air during painting will often disturb 'stuff' that would not get removed during the clean-up....and show up when paint is being applied.

DUB
Problem is that I can't find anyone who does dry ice in my area; it is tough enough finding someone who does media with corvette experience in my area - ugggghhhhh
Old 09-10-2014, 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by PierreOlivier
Problem is that I can't find anyone who does dry ice in my area; it is tough enough finding someone who does media with corvette experience in my area - ugggghhhhh
Welcome to 'my world'. This is why I do it all in house.

I do not know how important this is to you. But I have seen 'Rick's Restorations' out in Vegas use the dry ice method on TV. Call them and they may have a friend in the business close to you that can do it.

DUB
Old 10-12-2014, 02:22 AM
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Originally Posted by DUB
Welcome to 'my world'. This is why I do it all in house.

I do not know how important this is to you. But I have seen 'Rick's Restorations' out in Vegas use the dry ice method on TV. Call them and they may have a friend in the business close to you that can do it.

DUB
Well I ended up going with using walnut shells. It appeared to come out very well. I know it wasn't too harsh because the blaster had trouble getting off some undercoating. One thing for sure - Bubba had a field day on my car. Here are a few pictures:





Old 10-12-2014, 08:57 AM
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i use type6 acrylic and corn cob to blast fiberglass . works really well.
Old 10-12-2014, 05:38 PM
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OH BOY....it looks like the 'PARTY' is getting ready to get started here. Other than that...it looks good and ready to begin.

DUB
Old 10-12-2014, 05:55 PM
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damn , i'd be ordering some new pieces. that looks like some of the ins jobs from hell done back in the 70's .

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