80-Vette

I thought I had a plan on fixing my door/fender gaps but then I read a thread here that got me thinking that my original plan may not be the best. I have a problem with door/fender gap problems along with hood/surround gap issues. Porchdog, on another forum, has suggested that the hood may be an aftermarket hood which isn’t going to be a problem because I am sort of leaning to an L-88 type hood anyway.
After doing measuring and comparing the left top upper fender to the right side it appears as if the left fender may have been replaced or repaired at one time and the fiberglass was filed down. Whoever did the repair took too much material off of the top fender which caused the gap problems. The back and bottom door gaps are almost perfect. The bottom of the fender and the door are almost touching the top of the gaps are so bad I can actually put my finger in between the door and fender. I also have pictures of the measurements I took.
My plan to fix this was going to be was to cut the fender a couple 2 – 3 inches and bond a new fender portion to it and file to get the exact gaps I wanted. Then after reading this thread https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...of-pics-3.html and see that West System 404 High Density filler and 105 Epoxy Resin was used to fix this problem. Is this the best route to go? It would be a lot less intrusive which with my limited experience with fiberglass repair would be a huge plus but at the same time I only want to do this repair once so I want to do it correctly the first time.

80-Vette

Not sure if it matters but I am sure you can guess by my user name this is an 80.

DUB

Left side top hood surround appears to not be bonded....hard to tell by the photo. Can not see how flush the top hood surround is in relation to the door when closed.....and it also looks like the door is too low...and needs to be raised

Your photos are not giving me a real picture of what is wrong...because it is hard to tell how the fender looks on the left side down by your rocker panel and at the bottom edge of the door.

I do not know how your door works....because getting gaps set on a set of worn out hinges is also a waste of time.

I see the tape measurements...and it would seem that the top hood surround was ground on...but that is NOT a definitive conclusion on why the gap it off.

Depending on how much material need to be added ...for me...makes all the difference in what I use.

And as for you hood issue....the end on the left side that is UP is NOT uncommon. I can get that back down. And if you are going to sue an aftermarket hood....just get ready for fitting issues. Especially if you are going to be picky about gaps and it being flush. In that area of panel fitting/body work...I am SUPER PICKY.

DUB

80-Vette

I have made a lot of progress with hood adjustment by removing some shims that were underneath the latches and adding them between the hood hinges and hood.

The door hinges seem to be good when I lift up on the back of the door the door does not budge. I have not done body work on a corvette before but I did work in a body shop many years ago and that was how I would test the hinges. I assume this would be the same but maybe there is a better way. When I open the doors they do not seem to drop down or sag.

Here are some more pictures. The top of the door lines up perfectly with the top of the quarter panel. The gap between the door and quarter is near perfect. The bottom rear of he door is down lower than the front. The square I am using here is 1/8th" of an inch thick with the base of it being 1/4". If you would like different angles let me know.

The top front of the door is about 1/8 - 1/4" lower than the surround.

80-Vette

A couple more pictures. Just so you know the hood is not latched in these last pictures. The bottom of the door is actually out a little further than the fender and it is almost touching the fender. To me it really looks like at some point the front fender was replaced with an after market panel and the fender was filed to make the gap correct bit then again why would the bottom be so close and the top have the huge gap? I can provide any pictures or measurements you need to help determine the best method to fix it.

80-Vette

Even though my hinges do not seem to be wore out I am going to go ahead and order pins and bushings to ensure everything is good there.

80-Vette

Dub, I just noticed you are in Charlotte. What part of Charlotte are you at. I am in Concord near the race track. Maybe with you being so close you could take a look at this in person. I would meet you someplace but I have to replace the pwer steering control valve so it isn't exactly road worthy at this time.

I don't know if you are a race fan but being in Charlotte there is a good chance you are. If you are going to be in the area tomorrow let me know and I can give you my address. I am about 5 miles from the track.

DUB

I will be more than glad to look at it for you...and that would be best....and looking at it is at no charge to you. Just let me know when you can come by. So no more photo's are required.

Hold off on getting pins and bushing for the hinges at this time. If you plan on stopping by...I will advise you in what you may or may not need...and obviously....you can take that advice anyway you choose.

Even though the hinges are tight....the door can be picked up at the front and not greatly effect the rear body line. So...you stopping by would make it completely clear what it needs.

DUB

80-Vette

I do have the hoses on my control valve loose because I was planning on pulling it this weekend. I will tighten them up and bleed the power steering and let you take a look at it. You can send me a private message if you want.

erieaddict

Hey guys, have almost the same issue, and am following along on this post. Please make sure to check back in and let us know what the prescribed fix for this issue was. Thank you.

DUB

Posting photo's would be better for you. I am sure it is different.

DUB