Reshaping headlight openings
10-22-2014, 09:27 AM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Reshaping headlight openings
I am getting close to sealing and priming the body and still have the headlight openings that need a little work. I am not sure why the size/shape is off so bad, they could have been this bad to start with but I just did not notice (I had a lot of other problems that were way more noticeable...LOL).
Question: What would be the best way to resize the openings? I have fiberglass short strand filler, resin w/fiberglass mat, and VPA. Would it be best to use fiberglass resin with mat on the backside and VPA on top? I have used the VPA for several repairs on the car, but his area seems like it will leave a rather thin piece hanging over and with the panel only being 1/4" thick there will not be much for the VPA to stick to. I suppose I could taper the panel giving more surface area for the VPA to bond with.
Any suggestions???
Question: What would be the best way to resize the openings? I have fiberglass short strand filler, resin w/fiberglass mat, and VPA. Would it be best to use fiberglass resin with mat on the backside and VPA on top? I have used the VPA for several repairs on the car, but his area seems like it will leave a rather thin piece hanging over and with the panel only being 1/4" thick there will not be much for the VPA to stick to. I suppose I could taper the panel giving more surface area for the VPA to bond with.
Any suggestions???
10-22-2014, 05:36 PM
#2
Race Director
Your second photo is deceiving. Is the front gap actually that bad..and are the door level with the top hood surround???
QUESTION: How does the headlight bezel fit in the right housing. And by this I mean does the front edge of the headlight bezel fit under the door...or does it stick out. It looks (due to your photo) that someone in the past actually ground on the door parameter in the front.
This is something that I run into almost all the time to some degree when working on a 68-82. On your car...that narrow section of top hood surround in front of the headlight door is a visual area...and I try not to build inwards on the headlight opening enough that you can actually see it getting OBVIOUSLY wider. It is easier to hide bad gap ( if possible) by moving the door forward and correct the rear gap area.
In many cases..I have to do work on the front and the rear and find that 'happy spot' that the door looks good and will not effect any of the factory looks visually.
To answer you question....actually hard to say with out knowing how much you have to move a line in. So having very good measurements would be helpful.
IF you have to go over 3/16" of build out....I would get a base of matt and resin and then finish it out in the VPA.
Anything 3/16" and under I would do with the VPA.
REMEMBER the prep is the most important part. I have had to apply matt and resin in this area before and just remember you may need to filet your matt so it won't be so starchy and actually be able to mold and form without wanting to pop back off due to being so stiff because you are using the matt in its total thickness. I have also applied single strands that I can lay every which way...and make my own 'matt' by doing this...and get the fiber to stay put. ALSO...remember excessive resin is pointless...it is getting the ratios correct for strength.....and when you are doing this if you are building inwards...all you are looking for is a good solid base that the VPA can stick to.
And even though you did not ask..I can have numerous hours in getting the door gaps perfect. AND...I use gelcoat...so when I am getting my widths set. I AM figuring in the amount of gelcoat, primer, paint and clear that will be applied to the body edges and the product used on the doors...SO when I am done and putting the headlight doors back in...I do not scrub clear because I got it so tight when it was in raw fiberglass. REALLY KEEP AN EYE on the rear area!!!!! I even due sanding on the underside rear area of the headlight door when it is out to clean up any casting flash and help in the 'sweep' of the door when it is going up and down.
DUB
QUESTION: How does the headlight bezel fit in the right housing. And by this I mean does the front edge of the headlight bezel fit under the door...or does it stick out. It looks (due to your photo) that someone in the past actually ground on the door parameter in the front.
This is something that I run into almost all the time to some degree when working on a 68-82. On your car...that narrow section of top hood surround in front of the headlight door is a visual area...and I try not to build inwards on the headlight opening enough that you can actually see it getting OBVIOUSLY wider. It is easier to hide bad gap ( if possible) by moving the door forward and correct the rear gap area.
In many cases..I have to do work on the front and the rear and find that 'happy spot' that the door looks good and will not effect any of the factory looks visually.
To answer you question....actually hard to say with out knowing how much you have to move a line in. So having very good measurements would be helpful.
IF you have to go over 3/16" of build out....I would get a base of matt and resin and then finish it out in the VPA.
Anything 3/16" and under I would do with the VPA.
REMEMBER the prep is the most important part. I have had to apply matt and resin in this area before and just remember you may need to filet your matt so it won't be so starchy and actually be able to mold and form without wanting to pop back off due to being so stiff because you are using the matt in its total thickness. I have also applied single strands that I can lay every which way...and make my own 'matt' by doing this...and get the fiber to stay put. ALSO...remember excessive resin is pointless...it is getting the ratios correct for strength.....and when you are doing this if you are building inwards...all you are looking for is a good solid base that the VPA can stick to.
And even though you did not ask..I can have numerous hours in getting the door gaps perfect. AND...I use gelcoat...so when I am getting my widths set. I AM figuring in the amount of gelcoat, primer, paint and clear that will be applied to the body edges and the product used on the doors...SO when I am done and putting the headlight doors back in...I do not scrub clear because I got it so tight when it was in raw fiberglass. REALLY KEEP AN EYE on the rear area!!!!! I even due sanding on the underside rear area of the headlight door when it is out to clean up any casting flash and help in the 'sweep' of the door when it is going up and down.
DUB
10-22-2014, 06:44 PM
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thanks DUB. To answer you first question: yes the gap is really that bad. The door is level with the surround.
I will go take some measurements of the door and opening to see which one is out of spec. You made a good point about the front leading edge of the surround being a visual, I will keep that in mind if I have to do any work.
This car will never be anywhere near perfect, but I cannot live with the gaps pushing 1/2"+.
I will go take some measurements of the door and opening to see which one is out of spec. You made a good point about the front leading edge of the surround being a visual, I will keep that in mind if I have to do any work.
This car will never be anywhere near perfect, but I cannot live with the gaps pushing 1/2"+.
10-22-2014, 06:55 PM
#4
Race Director
Thanks DUB. To answer you first question: yes the gap is really that bad. The door is level with the surround.
I will go take some measurements of the door and opening to see which one is out of spec. You made a good point about the front leading edge of the surround being a visual, I will keep that in mind if I have to do any work.
This car will never be anywhere near perfect, but I cannot live with the gaps pushing 1/2"+.
I will go take some measurements of the door and opening to see which one is out of spec. You made a good point about the front leading edge of the surround being a visual, I will keep that in mind if I have to do any work.
This car will never be anywhere near perfect, but I cannot live with the gaps pushing 1/2"+.
DUB