gelcoat or not??
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
gelcoat or not??
I see lots of opinions on whether a gelcoat is needed or not.
For a 72, after you get the old paint and primer off, is it best to gelcoat, then epoxy prime, then base then clear??
Or
does the epoxy primer serve the same purpose as the gelcoat would serve and so gelcoat is really old school before modern epoxy primers came along?
Thanks.
For a 72, after you get the old paint and primer off, is it best to gelcoat, then epoxy prime, then base then clear??
Or
does the epoxy primer serve the same purpose as the gelcoat would serve and so gelcoat is really old school before modern epoxy primers came along?
Thanks.
#2
Race Director
I see lots of opinions on whether a gelcoat is needed or not.
For a 72, after you get the old paint and primer off, is it best to gelcoat, then epoxy prime, then base then clear??
Or
does the epoxy primer serve the same purpose as the gelcoat would serve and so gelcoat is really old school before modern epoxy primers came along?
Thanks.
For a 72, after you get the old paint and primer off, is it best to gelcoat, then epoxy prime, then base then clear??
Or
does the epoxy primer serve the same purpose as the gelcoat would serve and so gelcoat is really old school before modern epoxy primers came along?
Thanks.
Many ways of doing 'things'...you answers and more are below.
First off the car was never gelcoated from the factory. It would have been too costly.
Basically...unless you already know this.....gelcoat is basically a 'turtle shell' for the body. So with the porosity of your body panels...if it/they get contaminated and neglected....this containment can migrate/wick to the surface and effect your paint. Gelcoat will aid in stopping this potential paint problem. UNLESS it is a serious problem...such as A/C compressor oil staying on the underside of the hood for a LONG time and not being cleaned off. ( which is why I gelcoat the underside of hoods also) IF the area of contamination is large enough...the gelcoat can pop or blister...BUT ANYTHING else would have more than likely done it faster. SO spraying grease and lubricant all '*****-nilly' on the inside of your door to lube stuff and getting it all over the place and on your fiberglass/SMC...the gelcoat will aid in not having your paint blister due to the oil/lubricant migrated into the fibers of the body and are now surfacing...but once again...if the contaminated area is large enough..it can still be a problem. Excessive tire shine also can cause your paint to begin to blister..due to the tiers are so wet and the stuff slinging all over the place....there are trick to stop this. But once the body has been effected...it is damaged and NOTHING will stick unless repaired correctly.
This is why you need to have at least 20 mils of gelcoat AFTER your sanding so the gelcoat has the thickness it needs to do its job. SO just applying a light coat of gelcoat to say that your car is gelcoated means NOTHING if not thick enough.
NOTHING compares to gelcoat. Epoxy does not come close...even though it is good and has its uses. Polyester primer is very close to gelcoat...but it is still NOT gelcoat. BUT VERY CLOSE. Polyester primer is what I use on SMc panels.
Due to the spray tip needed to apply gelcoat and or polyester primer...many people choose to use another primer. Because the gun is used only for that. You should not use it for paint and clear. Gelcoating is not hard to do...but the effort to prep it for the next stage is what many people choose not to do. Your choice.
AFTER ALL body work has been done....I apply my gelcoat....sand and prep it THOROUGHLY and then I apply a polyester primer on top of the gelcoat and prep it for my sealer and then paint.
Like most things in life...Practice makes perfect...and most people just want to jump right in because it looks so easy and think that 'it can't be that hard'. (NOT saying that you are that way) WELL...the tricks on knowing how to apply and reduce materials to make them flow out.....even if it takes a few more coats.....aids the process of sanding is what breaks the MEN from the BOYS. And that is usually learned from PRACTICE and EXPERIENCE.
I have told many members who have called me to TEST it FIRST. If you are in uncharted territory...and still getting all the guidance needed...I am NOT thee with you...so you need to spend some time and MONEY and do test panels UNTIL you have it mastered and are CONFIDENT and COMFORTABLE with the process that you plan on using. THEN and ONLY THEN is when you employ the SAME EXACT PROCESS and put it on your car that you have worked hours on to get right....and don't your feel it is deserving of this added effort?????
There are times to be CHEAP and try to squeeze a dime out of a nickle....but then are times when it is BEST to use some product to LEARN with....and chalk those costs to LEARNING. REMEMBER...there is NO AWARD for the one who does a full paint job the cheapest. I am always amazed when DIY'ers come by showing me what they are doing and get advice and STILL choose to do it their own way.... and then come by to show me a MAJOR PROBLEM....and then want me to pull out my MAGIC WAND and fix their 'FUSTER CLUCK'. Then they get a heart attack on what it will take to fix what should have been DONE initially.
DUB
#4
Race Director
I have a NEXA paint mixing system in my shop so I use the NEXA sealer 3015...and that can change depending on what color of gray sealers some colors require for ease of coverage when i am painting new Corvettes and having to match the color exactly.
DUB
DUB
#6
Race Director