Advice on tail light panel
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Advice on tail light panel
I just got my new tail light panel for my 65 convertible (panel on the car was beyond repair in my opinion). My question is - should I attach the bolt plates via rivets before attaching the panel to the car?
#2
Race Director
DUB
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
The clips weren't bonded on the old panel but that doesn't mean anything. I am trying to find the parts on Long Island and Bair's but no success. It would be cool if someone has a picture of the clips to show their location and what they look like. Help please!!
#4
Race Director
DUB
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
I believe the following is the clip from the Long Island Corvette site (it does come in a set of 3):
It would be nice if someone had a picture or two of the actual clips in place
#6
Race Director
The clip you posted a photo of is close to the ones I have seen...but it only has one hole in it...where the bonding adhesives goes to hold it and the other end is just cut off with the black protectant on it. The clip looks like the ones on the firewall that hold the engine harness.....but obviously they are not riveted on.
One goes on the outer LEFT taillight housing on the top. Then the inner right taillight housing on the top also. Bonded flush so the clip does not overhang. And is positioned so the hole is facing towards the rear....so the clip can be bent up and then the wiring harness goes in and then push down on the clip...because it is flexible.
Honestly...you are really worrying about something that is so minute...and it is not like someone is going to climb under your car and measure these clips for proper placement.
DUB
One goes on the outer LEFT taillight housing on the top. Then the inner right taillight housing on the top also. Bonded flush so the clip does not overhang. And is positioned so the hole is facing towards the rear....so the clip can be bent up and then the wiring harness goes in and then push down on the clip...because it is flexible.
Honestly...you are really worrying about something that is so minute...and it is not like someone is going to climb under your car and measure these clips for proper placement.
DUB
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
The clip you posted a photo of is close to the ones I have seen...but it only has one hole in it...where the bonding adhesives goes to hold it and the other end is just cut off with the black protectant on it. The clip looks like the ones on the firewall that hold the engine harness.....but obviously they are not riveted on.
One goes on the outer LEFT taillight housing on the top. Then the inner right taillight housing on the top also. Bonded flush so the clip does not overhang. And is positioned so the hole is facing towards the rear....so the clip can be bent up and then the wiring harness goes in and then push down on the clip...because it is flexible.
Honestly...you are really worrying about something that is so minute...and it is not like someone is going to climb under your car and measure these clips for proper placement.
DUB
One goes on the outer LEFT taillight housing on the top. Then the inner right taillight housing on the top also. Bonded flush so the clip does not overhang. And is positioned so the hole is facing towards the rear....so the clip can be bent up and then the wiring harness goes in and then push down on the clip...because it is flexible.
Honestly...you are really worrying about something that is so minute...and it is not like someone is going to climb under your car and measure these clips for proper placement.
DUB
I did a test fit of the panel (it is from ACI). the right side fits perfectly but the left side does not - uggghhh. I will post pictures tomorrow.
#8
Race Director
I would do a check to make sure your license plate bezel will fit...and you lower exhaust filler fits really good. The area around the license plate area is the KILLER.
DUB
#9
Racer
Thread Starter
I can appreciate that...but hopefully you have found where to put them...correct???
OH BOY...I would have advised you to get press-molded part....and if the lower exhaust panel is needed also...get that press-molded also. They fit together the BEST
I would do a check to make sure your license plate bezel will fit...and you lower exhaust filler fits really good. The area around the license plate area is the KILLER.
DUB
OH BOY...I would have advised you to get press-molded part....and if the lower exhaust panel is needed also...get that press-molded also. They fit together the BEST
I would do a check to make sure your license plate bezel will fit...and you lower exhaust filler fits really good. The area around the license plate area is the KILLER.
DUB
As for the taillight panel - I did another test fit after I had bonded the cracks in the door frames and I bonded the rear passenger quarter panel to its support and it seems a lot better. I think it is going to work out fine. I am going to work on the license plate frame and other items to make sure they fit as well.
#11
Race Director
I agree with the placement from 'egnuol'. I will look to see if I still have the original 1964 taillight panel I replaced...where the adhesive was on it.
DUB
DUB
#12
Racer
Thread Starter
I am going to start attaching all the hardware to the panel this weekend and work on the fit.
#13
Race Director
DUB
#14
Racer
Thread Starter
Obviously don't go just on my account. Again - I know I can speak for everyone on this forum - Thanks!!!
#15
Race Director
This is the outer LEFT taillight housing
With the clip would have been bonded. You can see the nub where the filler went throguh the hole in the clip
Right INNER taillight housing
Right side with clip
I hope this helps.
DUB
#16
Race Director
This is the left side of the license plate area. AND you can see the area where the adhesive was for the clip. I cut this panel for something I must have been needing it for. But the adhesive spot is just back towards the a section I cut out from the square holes for the plastic insert. The dark gray looking partial square at the end of the panel where I cut it is where the clip went.
DUB
#17
Racer
Thread Starter
This is the left side of the license plate area. AND you can see the area where the adhesive was for the clip. I cut this panel for something I must have been needing it for. But the adhesive spot is just back towards the a section I cut out from the square holes for the plastic insert. The dark gray looking partial square at the end of the panel where I cut it is where the clip went.
DUB
#18
Race Director
Thanks a lot DUB. This will help a lot. I am now struggling with the taillights. I drilled out the bolt holes and I had to enlarge the central hole but I can only get lights on one side to fit. Uggghhh. This may be the revenge for not paying for a press molded piece.
IF you still have a fit issue (which I have happen many times)....that is when I prep/sand/grind the outer area of the taillight hole and apply Vette Panel Adhesive and install the taillight housing after applying some wax on the areas that may come in contact with the VPA or carefully apply masking tape. The when the VPA begins to set up and is slightly spongy. I pull out the taillight housing and let the VPA cure. Sand the area and re-check the taillight and it now fits perfectly to the VPA.....BUT KEEP THIS IN MIND.....Because you have just 'dialed-in' this taillight housing to being perfectly flush and fitting. WHEN you prime, paint and clear the car you are adding more film thickness....which when you go and put this taillight back in and TIGHTEN it in place. There is a HIGH PROBABILITY that the compression of the taillights outer bezel can possible cut into or cause your paint to bulge when it gets hot and is curing out. You will NEED to compensate for this when the time comes and you are installing these taillight housing you 'dialed-in'. Either by using super thin shims and getting it to the point that when the nuts are tight...you can slide a piece of cellophane between the taillight housing bezel and your paint. OR..at the time of doing this...you actually add enough tape to make it thick at the point of contact and not tighten the taillight to DEATH...SO when it goes in and the tape is removed...you have already 'built-in' this dimension and may not have to worry...but always be aware of ti when installing these taillights.
DUB
#19
Racer
Thread Starter
YEP...I have encountered this also. In some cases I remove the thick flexible seal at the vary back contact surface of the taillight housing itself...and see how the light housing fits. If it fits...then I replace this seal with one that is thinner and or not as dense.
IF you still have a fit issue (which I have happen many times)....that is when I prep/sand/grind the outer area of the taillight hole and apply Vette Panel Adhesive and install the taillight housing after applying some wax on the areas that may come in contact with the VPA or carefully apply masking tape. The when the VPA begins to set up and is slightly spongy. I pull out the taillight housing and let the VPA cure. Sand the area and re-check the taillight and it now fits perfectly to the VPA.....BUT KEEP THIS IN MIND.....Because you have just 'dialed-in' this taillight housing to being perfectly flush and fitting. WHEN you prime, paint and clear the car you are adding more film thickness....which when you go and put this taillight back in and TIGHTEN it in place. There is a HIGH PROBABILITY that the compression of the taillights outer bezel can possible cut into or cause your paint to bulge when it gets hot and is curing out. You will NEED to compensate for this when the time comes and you are installing these taillight housing you 'dialed-in'. Either by using super thin shims and getting it to the point that when the nuts are tight...you can slide a piece of cellophane between the taillight housing bezel and your paint. OR..at the time of doing this...you actually add enough tape to make it thick at the point of contact and not tighten the taillight to DEATH...SO when it goes in and the tape is removed...you have already 'built-in' this dimension and may not have to worry...but always be aware of ti when installing these taillights.
DUB
IF you still have a fit issue (which I have happen many times)....that is when I prep/sand/grind the outer area of the taillight hole and apply Vette Panel Adhesive and install the taillight housing after applying some wax on the areas that may come in contact with the VPA or carefully apply masking tape. The when the VPA begins to set up and is slightly spongy. I pull out the taillight housing and let the VPA cure. Sand the area and re-check the taillight and it now fits perfectly to the VPA.....BUT KEEP THIS IN MIND.....Because you have just 'dialed-in' this taillight housing to being perfectly flush and fitting. WHEN you prime, paint and clear the car you are adding more film thickness....which when you go and put this taillight back in and TIGHTEN it in place. There is a HIGH PROBABILITY that the compression of the taillights outer bezel can possible cut into or cause your paint to bulge when it gets hot and is curing out. You will NEED to compensate for this when the time comes and you are installing these taillight housing you 'dialed-in'. Either by using super thin shims and getting it to the point that when the nuts are tight...you can slide a piece of cellophane between the taillight housing bezel and your paint. OR..at the time of doing this...you actually add enough tape to make it thick at the point of contact and not tighten the taillight to DEATH...SO when it goes in and the tape is removed...you have already 'built-in' this dimension and may not have to worry...but always be aware of ti when installing these taillights.
DUB
#20
Race Director
I do know that a press-molded taillight panel long with a press-molded lower exhaust filler panel mate up very well....especially at the license plate area...like I have mentioned before.
DUB