BobG74

Im new to forum and could use some advise concerning mapping/photographing of repaired areas and how to prevent it. Im prepping a 74 t top for paint, the car was painted 15 years ago after I replaced a front fender and door skin. The bond seam on the new fender

repair work came out fine with VPA, however the original factory bond seams mapped thru new paint (didn't know enough to refresh with with VPA then probably still don't know enough ). There was also a crack in the upper hood surround, I Ved out the crack and repaired with evercoat epoxy and chopped up mat, the repair is smooth as a babys @$$ but it mapped too. Im getting the car ready for new paint by using an orbital sander to break the clear and some of the color coat then hand sanding down to primer with 16" file and 4" block. I'm exposing the map areas and plan on grinding 1/4 " deep and refreshing with VPA. Is that good enough to prevent the map? Thanks in advance for any advise. Did i mention that hand sanding this car is a ****.

Rear fender showing original factory bond seam this mapped big time. Also I glassed in the the side view mirror holes and will redrill new hols that fit 74s small mirror footprint.






Bond seam of replaced fender and left side crack repair. This bond showed a little around the brown paint area but otherwise was go to go.





Mapping of original bond seams.

DUB

Replying from what I can see in the photos.

I still see what looks like the factory red primer at eh rear of the right quarter panel. it should be removed. Take the panel all the way down to bare material.

Are you applying body filler of some type...or is that what was used in the past???


You do not have to go down a 1/4" when grinding the seams...the main thing is to get down and taper the top and bottom lines where the two panels came together. You want to prep it out about 2+" from the seam so when you fill it in the seam is covered. When grinding down in the seam and tapering it...all you need to do is go down far enough to get to the bottom of the edge where the two panels met. So 1/8"+ is fine. AND tapering it out away from the seam will make it so that there is not two distinct lines any longer.

Best of luck with the Evercoat SMC resin....I have tried with it for years and it always came back to haunt me....and that is also following the tech departments instructions. Seems that I could always pop what I laminated right off the panel with little effort.

DUB

BobG74

DUB

Everything u see is from say 16 years ago, I haven't applied any thing yet ( I did use west system and mat to cover up side view mirror holes on pass door ). I have VPA for the bond seams and west system 105/206 and fiber mat for any glass work.

The evercoat epoxy I used 16 years ago to repair a 6" crack in the surround, as i recall i beveled the crack to 1" and filled with chopped up fiberglass and evercoat epoxy The repair was ok but mapped thru the paint (even though it felt smooth). Do u think if I feather out the 1" to say 3" and then fill in with VPA it will eliminate the mapping?

BG

Thanks for ur advise, I think there is more sanding in my future if it red I'll remove it.

DUB

Yes...I would grind down the exposed resin and mat you had applied and skim coat over it with the VPA.

Obviously...you can prep it and paint ti how you see fit...but all I know is that I remove everything that is on the body. I want it bare. Regardless if any filler or primer has been on it for 20 years and is still holding up...I take it all the way down and start fresh. Keep in mind...I have yet to have to repaint a car I had done 30 years ago....so all the jobs I get in are cars t that I have never touched before. Which is why I strip it all the way down to bare fiberglass/SMC.

DUB

BobG74

Cant argue with success going to bare SMC. Thanks again you are a big help to me and the forum.

BG Will be sanding for a while ....