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Just glued the hood surround on with Ecklers restoration formula. Thought the same stuff might do as body filler, but no, so will sand that off and use the VPA or Ecklers body filler.
Plan to use the same plan as E.Murray, except hope to avoid chemical strip, maybe sand the primer off too.
Thanks to E.Murray and DUB for the info below.
Few questions please,
1. I tried using a hair dryer ahead of the scraper and the heat definitely helps. How hot is too hot for the fiberglass??? I only got it about as hot as hot water out of the faucet. I am thinking fiberglass is ok up to boiling 212F??? or more likely 300F or so.
2. I can see the blue paint coming off, there is a dark gray under that which I think is primer and a lighter gray under that which is the fiberglass. Correct??
Thanks and all advice is welcome!
Originally Posted by E.Murray View Post
Strip as far as I can with heat and razor blade. Chemical strip anything that's left.
YES...that is what I do.
Glass mat and fabric (fabric on back side, mat in resin on front, correct?) for repairs.
Yes and NO, Not all repairs require this though process. It depends on the repair. And laminating matt and resin ...if you want the repair strong requires your attention...and not just slapping stuff on a panel. NOT writing that is what you would do...but knowing you have not done fiberglass work.,..I am letting you know that it is not hard to do...just takes a person paying attention to what they are doing.
Rework the seams with mat and resin (grind shallow "v" and fill).
You can if you choose...I never have and will never do it that way. I have been doing it another way for decades that works perfectly and has never failed....and is not so labor intensive. I use VPA instead of matt and resin
Put front clip on with Evercoat VPA.
YES...but you better test to make sure you get your harder to VPA ratio correct so it does not rock up on you too quickly. The other option is use Evercoat's SMC Panel Adhesive ( part number 994) YES...it works perfectly also.....but...once again....you need to get the mixing ratio to work for you. I use both when i am bonding clips on.
Sand with 80 grit, then fill lows with VPA
Yes..that will work.
Evercoat glazing filler to fill pinholes and get everything smooth
I use the VPA for everything....but that is just me
Sand with 180
YES
2 coats sealer epoxy
2-3 coats of 2K
Sand (220 to 600?)
Base and clear (professionally applied).
This means the products I need are VPA, mat, fabric, resin, glazing putty. Do I need a fiberglass filler or Rage-type product (used Rage Gold before, but it's metal only?)?
Does this sound like reasonable plan? What am I missing?
I know I'm going to have a couple fiberglass-repair-specific questions as I go. I'm very patient and in no hurry. Also, don't be afraid to thump me for something wrong. I have rhino hide and am only interested in the best results I can get. Thanks for the great forum!
Eric
AS for what you wan to apply on the fiberglass when it is stripped all the way down is your choice. I prefer gelcoat. Many members have used other products with success. So I am NOT saying how I do Corvettes is the ONLY way...it is just the way I know works BEST for ME...because I have to warranty my work.
I your concern is dealing with using a heat gun...you do not have to get it that hot. I use a single edge razor blade tool that will take the paint off. But you do NOT want to get it super hot.....or your can actually damage the fiberglass internally.
Yes the lighter gray is the fiberglass.....and do not try to remove the primer with excessive heat.....once again...if you get it too hot...you might REGRET it later.
AS for the lower copied text...some parts of that I agree with...but other areas i have a difference of opinion. So I know the copied text is not all from what I have written in other posts.
Just to clarify...and NOT writing it can not be performed as written...I just do it another way.
I never use resin and mat for filling in seams...only VPA.
I do not use any glazing filers or putty. I use entirely VPA for everything.
And as for spray-able products....you can use what you choose....I prefer to use gelcoat and a polyester primer.
The lower text is hard to read....which is why I wrote what I did above.
I just copied the whole plan with your responses, agree a little hard to read as the font was all alike, oh well.
Anyway I can tell this is going to take awhile and dividing it up into manageable portions is the way to go.
There is no easy way to scrape on this one that I have found yet. Using a walking motion like engravers make those zig zag lines seems to work best for me. Also I am making nicks here and there in the fiberglass but I am thinking VPA as a filler will level that out.
You are correct...the VPA can be used to fill in the nicks.
You are using single edge razor blades....correct??
DUB
Thanks for the feedback.
Yes, single edge razor blades used in 3 or 4 different scrapers, the one similar to your K&D scraper works well and I have got another one with a screwdriver handle that works well also. And ground off the razor blade corners which seems to lessen gouges too.
I lifted some paint at the bottom of the fender with lacquer thinner, so must be lacquer or maybe single stage enamel? I left it out in the sun all day (100F) and scraped late in the afternoon. Paint is coming off in very small chips. Also right rear fender has a reddish brown something under the paint which looks like bondo, but hopefully a body filler of some kind. On the back side of the same fender there is evidence of body repair. I am thinking it is best to razor blade as much as possible, then clean up sand all to bare fiberglass, then use VPA to fill nicks and low spots, smooth all out and then off to gel coat??
07-24-2015, 03:51 PM
Paint the 72 project
