74 front bumper fit - fiberglass
08-31-2015, 04:56 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
74 front bumper fit - fiberglass UPDATE
Good afternoon,
I have installed the replacement front bumper on my 74, but I am concerned with the fit. The car has never been hit in the front and is original. When I aligned the top of the bumper with the hood surround, the ends of the bumper were very high.
When mounted low and flush with the bottom of the fenders and valance, the flange on the bumper is below the flange on the car's hood surround and a couple of the retainer holes can be seen.
When mid mounted, I was able to get it to fit, but it took some force to align things enough so that filler can be used to bring the bumper up to the car contour. This is the position that I drilled holes in the bumper and installed the retainers. The ends of the bumper have to be pushed down and the retainers snugged up on the sides to hold it in position.
I am concerned the force used to get it to fit might be too much and when I remove it for paint, I will crack the filler (it will be 1/8" thick at the thickest spot). How much is too much? I know that is a bit of a loaded question.
I have pictures in my album, and that might be easier than posting with my limited skills. If they can't be seen, I'll try and post them here.
There is no interference with the steel bumper and backup structure. I removed it for fitting, then re-installed it with minor adjustments to make sure there was no interference.
Thanks in advance to all.
Warmest regards,
Rob
I have installed the replacement front bumper on my 74, but I am concerned with the fit. The car has never been hit in the front and is original. When I aligned the top of the bumper with the hood surround, the ends of the bumper were very high.
When mounted low and flush with the bottom of the fenders and valance, the flange on the bumper is below the flange on the car's hood surround and a couple of the retainer holes can be seen.
When mid mounted, I was able to get it to fit, but it took some force to align things enough so that filler can be used to bring the bumper up to the car contour. This is the position that I drilled holes in the bumper and installed the retainers. The ends of the bumper have to be pushed down and the retainers snugged up on the sides to hold it in position.
I am concerned the force used to get it to fit might be too much and when I remove it for paint, I will crack the filler (it will be 1/8" thick at the thickest spot). How much is too much? I know that is a bit of a loaded question.
I have pictures in my album, and that might be easier than posting with my limited skills. If they can't be seen, I'll try and post them here.
There is no interference with the steel bumper and backup structure. I removed it for fitting, then re-installed it with minor adjustments to make sure there was no interference.
Thanks in advance to all.
Warmest regards,
Rob
Last edited by RobfromME; 09-17-2015 at 03:30 PM.
08-31-2015, 06:21 PM
#2
Race Director
I looked at your photos.
QUESTION: At the outer corners (on each side)....when you position the bumper so it is flush at the top...is the bumper wide enough to make it all the way down the side of the fender where it will meet up with the lower valance panel????
QUESTION: When to center the bumper...is the bumper sticking out on each side....thus being to WIDE side to side????
QUESTION: Are you planning on JUST painting the bumper and NOT the body????
Using Vette Panel Adhesive to fill in gaps is what I use and it can be rather thick...much more than 1/8". BUT when I do bumpers...the majority of the time I am painting the car entire so I can get the bumper to perfectly fit the car. When putting a bumper on a a car and NOT painting the front end.....then it is what it is...because the odds that the paint will perfectly match is unlikely.
DUB
QUESTION: At the outer corners (on each side)....when you position the bumper so it is flush at the top...is the bumper wide enough to make it all the way down the side of the fender where it will meet up with the lower valance panel????
QUESTION: When to center the bumper...is the bumper sticking out on each side....thus being to WIDE side to side????
QUESTION: Are you planning on JUST painting the bumper and NOT the body????
Using Vette Panel Adhesive to fill in gaps is what I use and it can be rather thick...much more than 1/8". BUT when I do bumpers...the majority of the time I am painting the car entire so I can get the bumper to perfectly fit the car. When putting a bumper on a a car and NOT painting the front end.....then it is what it is...because the odds that the paint will perfectly match is unlikely.
DUB
09-01-2015, 10:58 AM
#3
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Thread Starter
Good morning, Dub,
Thanks so much for the quick response! I'll try and get full answers for you this evening or tomorrow depending on when I get out of work, but here's what I can answer so far:
#1 When I align the bumper as flush with the hood surround as possible, the ends are up in the air, well above the fenders. It is not deep enough in this position to reach the valance. It is about as wide as the car from left to right.
#2 It does not appear too wide from left to right. With the current installed fit, I start in the center, put those retainers in, and then go to the four outboard holes (two each fender) and then squeeze (with fingers, not clamps) the flange on the outboard edge of the bumper toward the flange of the car's fender and down and wind the nuts on by hand. I do the other side the same, then repeat to get it a bit closer. Then I put the other retainers in place. When it's like this, the sides fit very well side to side, but are still high at the corners. If I tighten the fender retainers more, the sides come in even closer. If I pull down in the center of the bumper below the grill openings, it helps bring the ends of the bumper down. I could use Evercoat 870 to fill all around the perimeter as installed for a nice fit, with two exceptions on the upper outboard edges (which I'll show with pictures). But, I'm afraid when I remove it, the spring back with cause the 870 to break or crack....maybe it won't, but I have no feel for how much is too much. I'm a darn amateur.
I'll try and get some pictures with descriptions tonight or tomorrow, since the picture is worth a thousand words.
#3 I intend to only paint the bumpers right now. The car paint is original and very good (for a 70's GM paint job) so I accept that I'll never get a perfect match of color. I was hoping to modify only the bumper at this point.
I'll try and get you some better pictures this evening or tomorrow with the bumper fitted as you asked. I had considered sending the bumper back to ACI for an exchange and see if the next would fit any better, but without any experienced local Vette body men to judge the fit, I assumed bad fit was pretty good from what I read on the forums.
As a side, If I take the bumper and line it up on one fender or the other, the fit top to bottom is excellent. In other words, the depth at the ends is OK. My bumper appears to be "smile" shaped...low middle high ends.
Once again, thank you, Dub. I appreciate your time and patience with my questions.
Best regards,
Rob
Thanks so much for the quick response! I'll try and get full answers for you this evening or tomorrow depending on when I get out of work, but here's what I can answer so far:
#1 When I align the bumper as flush with the hood surround as possible, the ends are up in the air, well above the fenders. It is not deep enough in this position to reach the valance. It is about as wide as the car from left to right.
#2 It does not appear too wide from left to right. With the current installed fit, I start in the center, put those retainers in, and then go to the four outboard holes (two each fender) and then squeeze (with fingers, not clamps) the flange on the outboard edge of the bumper toward the flange of the car's fender and down and wind the nuts on by hand. I do the other side the same, then repeat to get it a bit closer. Then I put the other retainers in place. When it's like this, the sides fit very well side to side, but are still high at the corners. If I tighten the fender retainers more, the sides come in even closer. If I pull down in the center of the bumper below the grill openings, it helps bring the ends of the bumper down. I could use Evercoat 870 to fill all around the perimeter as installed for a nice fit, with two exceptions on the upper outboard edges (which I'll show with pictures). But, I'm afraid when I remove it, the spring back with cause the 870 to break or crack....maybe it won't, but I have no feel for how much is too much. I'm a darn amateur.
I'll try and get some pictures with descriptions tonight or tomorrow, since the picture is worth a thousand words.
#3 I intend to only paint the bumpers right now. The car paint is original and very good (for a 70's GM paint job) so I accept that I'll never get a perfect match of color. I was hoping to modify only the bumper at this point.
I'll try and get you some better pictures this evening or tomorrow with the bumper fitted as you asked. I had considered sending the bumper back to ACI for an exchange and see if the next would fit any better, but without any experienced local Vette body men to judge the fit, I assumed bad fit was pretty good from what I read on the forums.
As a side, If I take the bumper and line it up on one fender or the other, the fit top to bottom is excellent. In other words, the depth at the ends is OK. My bumper appears to be "smile" shaped...low middle high ends.
Once again, thank you, Dub. I appreciate your time and patience with my questions.
Best regards,
Rob
I looked at your photos.
QUESTION: At the outer corners (on each side)....when you position the bumper so it is flush at the top...is the bumper wide enough to make it all the way down the side of the fender where it will meet up with the lower valance panel????
QUESTION: When to center the bumper...is the bumper sticking out on each side....thus being to WIDE side to side????
QUESTION: Are you planning on JUST painting the bumper and NOT the body????
Using Vette Panel Adhesive to fill in gaps is what I use and it can be rather thick...much more than 1/8". BUT when I do bumpers...the majority of the time I am painting the car entire so I can get the bumper to perfectly fit the car. When putting a bumper on a a car and NOT painting the front end.....then it is what it is...because the odds that the paint will perfectly match is unlikely.
DUB
QUESTION: At the outer corners (on each side)....when you position the bumper so it is flush at the top...is the bumper wide enough to make it all the way down the side of the fender where it will meet up with the lower valance panel????
QUESTION: When to center the bumper...is the bumper sticking out on each side....thus being to WIDE side to side????
QUESTION: Are you planning on JUST painting the bumper and NOT the body????
Using Vette Panel Adhesive to fill in gaps is what I use and it can be rather thick...much more than 1/8". BUT when I do bumpers...the majority of the time I am painting the car entire so I can get the bumper to perfectly fit the car. When putting a bumper on a a car and NOT painting the front end.....then it is what it is...because the odds that the paint will perfectly match is unlikely.
DUB
09-01-2015, 06:10 PM
#4
Race Director
Rob,
What could ahve happened is that when the bumper was taken out ofteh mold...it cured some more and the center at the top sunk down.
In most cases...this drop is not that bad. And when I get the retainers installed in the bumper...I can get the studs of the retainers to go into the front end and then press down and get the outer corner to come down....and then clamp the bumper at the bottom carefully.
BUT...I have had rigid fiberglass bumper that were screwed up and nothing could fix them other than getting another bumper due to the bumper obviously curing out further and NOT being in the mold to hold its shape. Welcome to production part manufacturing.
If you feel it is under too much stress to get it to fit...get a new one. BUT before you do...contact who you got it from and let them know what is going on even if you ahve to e-mail photos.....because if you start drilling on it....they may not warranty it....even though it seems logical that the bumper may need to be installed and checked to see out how much out of whack it actually is.
DUB
What could ahve happened is that when the bumper was taken out ofteh mold...it cured some more and the center at the top sunk down.
In most cases...this drop is not that bad. And when I get the retainers installed in the bumper...I can get the studs of the retainers to go into the front end and then press down and get the outer corner to come down....and then clamp the bumper at the bottom carefully.
BUT...I have had rigid fiberglass bumper that were screwed up and nothing could fix them other than getting another bumper due to the bumper obviously curing out further and NOT being in the mold to hold its shape. Welcome to production part manufacturing.
If you feel it is under too much stress to get it to fit...get a new one. BUT before you do...contact who you got it from and let them know what is going on even if you ahve to e-mail photos.....because if you start drilling on it....they may not warranty it....even though it seems logical that the bumper may need to be installed and checked to see out how much out of whack it actually is.
DUB
09-03-2015, 04:19 PM
#5
Advanced
Thread Starter
Good afternoon, Dub,
Sorry for the delay. I’ve now got a bunch of pictures up to hopefully show a bit more. I broke them into albums with your username added to the end for convenience. Note that the green tape in the images shows installed retainers (the one tape in an “X” was one I couldn’t get in…I need to open up the hole in the bumper a bit more). Here’s what I’ve got:
Album: Bumper Centered, All Fasteners, Sides Pulled into Place – Dub
This album has pictures of the bumper in place, all retainers having the nuts hand tight as much as possible. I started in the center and worked outboard. For each of the sides, I pulled the bumper aft and down as much as I could then tightened the outboard three nuts by hand as tight as I could. The results are shown. If I could use Evercoat 870 to fill the gaps and bring the center of the bumper up to the level of the hood surround and the lower sides even with the fenders, this would leave only the two upper sides of the bumper high compared to the car…There’s too much to block sand down to get them level, though. It would break through the fiberglass.
Album: Bumper Centered, Equal Gap More Fasteners, No Stress – Dub
This is the same as the album called “Bumper Centered, Equal Gap each side (4 retainers) – Dub” but with more retainers, with tape showing the installed retainers with nuts spun on until they touched the car side of the joint (the metal reinforcement behind the hood surround / fender)
Album: Bumper Centered, Equal Gap each side (4 retainers) – Dub
Bumper held in place with 4 retainers shown at tape locations, no stresses. Nuts are only spun on until they touch structure.
Album: LH Top Side of Bumper Flush with Hood Surround-Dub
Here, the top LH side of the bumper is aligned as best as possible and as level as possible with the LH side of the hood surround and two fasteners installed: the first one left of center, and the lowest one on the LH side of the fender.
Album: RH Top of Bumper Flush with RH Side of Hood Surround-Dub
Here, the top RH side of the bumper is aligned as best as possible and as level as possible with the RH side of the hood surround and two fasteners installed: the first one right of center, and the lowest one on the RH side of the fender.
I'd sure appreciate your thoughts, Dub, and how you'd approach this.
Also, what do you suggest for a resin/hardener to use with the Corvettes when you have to add glass mat?
Thanks again, Dub.
All my best,
Rob
Sorry for the delay. I’ve now got a bunch of pictures up to hopefully show a bit more. I broke them into albums with your username added to the end for convenience. Note that the green tape in the images shows installed retainers (the one tape in an “X” was one I couldn’t get in…I need to open up the hole in the bumper a bit more). Here’s what I’ve got:
Album: Bumper Centered, All Fasteners, Sides Pulled into Place – Dub
This album has pictures of the bumper in place, all retainers having the nuts hand tight as much as possible. I started in the center and worked outboard. For each of the sides, I pulled the bumper aft and down as much as I could then tightened the outboard three nuts by hand as tight as I could. The results are shown. If I could use Evercoat 870 to fill the gaps and bring the center of the bumper up to the level of the hood surround and the lower sides even with the fenders, this would leave only the two upper sides of the bumper high compared to the car…There’s too much to block sand down to get them level, though. It would break through the fiberglass.
Album: Bumper Centered, Equal Gap More Fasteners, No Stress – Dub
This is the same as the album called “Bumper Centered, Equal Gap each side (4 retainers) – Dub” but with more retainers, with tape showing the installed retainers with nuts spun on until they touched the car side of the joint (the metal reinforcement behind the hood surround / fender)
Album: Bumper Centered, Equal Gap each side (4 retainers) – Dub
Bumper held in place with 4 retainers shown at tape locations, no stresses. Nuts are only spun on until they touch structure.
Album: LH Top Side of Bumper Flush with Hood Surround-Dub
Here, the top LH side of the bumper is aligned as best as possible and as level as possible with the LH side of the hood surround and two fasteners installed: the first one left of center, and the lowest one on the LH side of the fender.
Album: RH Top of Bumper Flush with RH Side of Hood Surround-Dub
Here, the top RH side of the bumper is aligned as best as possible and as level as possible with the RH side of the hood surround and two fasteners installed: the first one right of center, and the lowest one on the RH side of the fender.
I'd sure appreciate your thoughts, Dub, and how you'd approach this.
Also, what do you suggest for a resin/hardener to use with the Corvettes when you have to add glass mat?
Thanks again, Dub.
All my best,
Rob
09-03-2015, 06:30 PM
#6
Race Director
Rob,
If I am getting this....when you have the RH side secured...the LH side is NOT able to be pulled to the body. CORRECT???
IF when you remove the nuts and try to get the bumper to fit flush across the top....will it do that. From one side to the other side. I am not so much worried at this time about how the bumper fits to the vertical areas on the fenders...I am concerned about the top mounting flange area where it gets bolted to.
OR...regardless in what you do....due to the angle of the factory front clip...and the bumper cover....the angles are off across the top and there is NO WAY for the outer corners in the bumper to be pulled to the body.
The second photo of what you posted in your album. That gap on the fender. I am not so much concerned about that. I have dealt with this issue before and it is a relatively easy fix.
MY main concern again is how the top edge fits and if you can get it down flush with the front edge of the top hood surround.
I am suspect that you have bogus bumper cover. The amount of effort to get the top edge to touch all the way across should NOT be remotely excessive.
DUB
If I am getting this....when you have the RH side secured...the LH side is NOT able to be pulled to the body. CORRECT???
IF when you remove the nuts and try to get the bumper to fit flush across the top....will it do that. From one side to the other side. I am not so much worried at this time about how the bumper fits to the vertical areas on the fenders...I am concerned about the top mounting flange area where it gets bolted to.
OR...regardless in what you do....due to the angle of the factory front clip...and the bumper cover....the angles are off across the top and there is NO WAY for the outer corners in the bumper to be pulled to the body.
The second photo of what you posted in your album. That gap on the fender. I am not so much concerned about that. I have dealt with this issue before and it is a relatively easy fix.
MY main concern again is how the top edge fits and if you can get it down flush with the front edge of the top hood surround.
I am suspect that you have bogus bumper cover. The amount of effort to get the top edge to touch all the way across should NOT be remotely excessive.
DUB
09-17-2015, 03:38 PM
#8
Advanced
Thread Starter
Good afternoon, Dub & others,
I received a new bumper from ACI and it fits so well, it's unbelievable. Only minor work will be required to make it perfect.
Thanks so much to everyone for their help, and thank you, Dub, for your input since I'd have suffered through trying to get the old bumper to fit had it not been for your input and experience. If we get a chance to meet, I owe you a dinner!
One additional note regarding ACI; they set a new standard for customer service! I was extremely pleased with their help, understanding, and patience. They were interested in solving the problem, and making sure that it was resolved promptly. I was treated with the utmost of courtesy and kindness, and they were professional through and through.
I purchased my front bumper from them after my experience with a rear bumper I bought several years ago that was excellent, and fit so well. This time, I not only got a great product, but I was also able to experience their customer service first hand when the chips were down. I would suggest them without hesitation.
Once again, thanks, Dub!
(Pictures of the new bumper fit are in my album if anyone is interested. The album is called "New Front Bumper Fit")
Warmest regards,
Rob
I received a new bumper from ACI and it fits so well, it's unbelievable. Only minor work will be required to make it perfect.
Thanks so much to everyone for their help, and thank you, Dub, for your input since I'd have suffered through trying to get the old bumper to fit had it not been for your input and experience. If we get a chance to meet, I owe you a dinner!
One additional note regarding ACI; they set a new standard for customer service! I was extremely pleased with their help, understanding, and patience. They were interested in solving the problem, and making sure that it was resolved promptly. I was treated with the utmost of courtesy and kindness, and they were professional through and through.
I purchased my front bumper from them after my experience with a rear bumper I bought several years ago that was excellent, and fit so well. This time, I not only got a great product, but I was also able to experience their customer service first hand when the chips were down. I would suggest them without hesitation.
Once again, thanks, Dub!
(Pictures of the new bumper fit are in my album if anyone is interested. The album is called "New Front Bumper Fit")
Warmest regards,
Rob
Last edited by RobfromME; 09-17-2015 at 03:51 PM. Reason: added note about pictures in album
09-17-2015, 06:02 PM
#9
Race Director
Rob,
I am truly glad that all turned out well.
Not only you taking the time to express your concerns with ACI.....and NOT trying to get the 'other one' to work..... and ACI 'takin' care of business'...and not forgetting that CUSTOMER SATISFACTION is so important.
Owning a business....what many people do not understand or maybe forget....is that...if you have a problem ...and do not let the company KNOW about it...then how can they FIX the problem. AND...what often times can happen...is that if a customer has a problem with something that is being manufactured and lets them know about a problem...the company can then go look into WHY the problem is occurring and correct it. Because I can pretty much GUARANTEE that the 'Mission Statement' for any company that manufactures products does NOT read. 'Manufacture products poorly so we can make them twice'.
DUB
I am truly glad that all turned out well.
Not only you taking the time to express your concerns with ACI.....and NOT trying to get the 'other one' to work..... and ACI 'takin' care of business'...and not forgetting that CUSTOMER SATISFACTION is so important.Owning a business....what many people do not understand or maybe forget....is that...if you have a problem ...and do not let the company KNOW about it...then how can they FIX the problem. AND...what often times can happen...is that if a customer has a problem with something that is being manufactured and lets them know about a problem...the company can then go look into WHY the problem is occurring and correct it. Because I can pretty much GUARANTEE that the 'Mission Statement' for any company that manufactures products does NOT read. 'Manufacture products poorly so we can make them twice'.
DUB
09-20-2015, 11:44 AM
#11
Advanced
Thread Starter
Hi Croaker,
They are in my album, and I believe the permissions are set so anyone can see them. Let me know if you still have trouble and I'll try and figure out what I did wrong. The earlier pictures were viewable as Dub was able to view them and see what I had described.
All my best,
Rob
They are in my album, and I believe the permissions are set so anyone can see them. Let me know if you still have trouble and I'll try and figure out what I did wrong. The earlier pictures were viewable as Dub was able to view them and see what I had described.
All my best,
Rob
09-20-2015, 06:37 PM
#12
Race Director