Hollywood41

Dub,
What is your take on this statement from another forum? I know you feel differently about wet sanding.


Rub, it has to be dry sanded only. Since it is a polyester filler, basically spray bondo of sorts, it CANNOT be wet sanded and must be sealed. We often use 120 to 150 gold to kill the high spots, then move up to 180 to 220 for final blocking, then a quick pass with 320 to level the 180 scratches before 2K primer. If by chance there are some low spots that require reapplication, we usually find those areas with the 120 / 150 and hit it again.
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Thanks,

Skip

DUB

Skip,

The polyester primer I use CAN be wet sanded ...and I have been doing it for decades with NO problems. NONE what so ever!

Here is Evercoats tech bulletin...and you might want to call them and verify IF it can be wet sanded....BECAUSE it seems ODD to me that their 'Slicksand' can NOT be wet sanded. But it may not be able to and THAT is where it might be due to needing to air dry BEFORE paint is applied...and NOT for a production environment where a shop is pumping out cars.

You have to understand that many companies have to cover their rear ends due to idiots in the industry who try to push a products designed capabilities and speed them up....where 'these companies' have to write 'things' on the label to cover themselves from warranty a product where it was not CLEARLY outlined.

BUT...also understand that OFTEN times these SAME products CAN be prepped a different way as long as another procedure is followed. MUCH LIKE how Evercoat WROTE to wipe the fiberglass panel with ACETONE.....and you wonder HOW MANY people do that step...and wonder why something went wrong.....GO FIGURE!

http://www.evercoat.com/images/ePIM/..._2_2015_EN.pdf

When I sand my polyester primer...I go right to 400 wet and don't look back.

Here is what I use...the tech bulletin and it states...'wet or dry sanded'.

http://www.martinsenour-autopaint.co...rimer-surfacer.

Many people have their own thoughts and opinions on the subject....just like I do....and MAYBE they also have decades of successful results which is why they won't consider 'something else'.....JUST LIKE I DO.

Draw your own conclusions on what you want to do.... but from what 'they' are saying....the polyester primer I use basically does not fall into their views....CLEARLY.

DUB

Ken Sungela

Dub,
Do you seal the polyester primer you use before applying color coat? If so, what do you seal with? Thanks.

DUB

YES and NO. It depends on what I am doing. The polyester primer I use does not require the use of a sealer but it is a good idea to apply it on the polyester primer. I have never had my NEXA paint peel off of the sanded polyester primer I use.

I use a NEXA sealer that most times is really hard to obtain. part number ( P565-3015)

Go to the 565-3015 and click on English so you can read about it.

DUB

Hollywood41

Hope this helps. Right from the source.

Good Morning Gary,

Thank you for contacting ITW Evercoat. We do not suggest wet sanding Slick Sand. There is a possibility of moisture getting into the primer. Dry sand with 400 – 600 grit after drying. Following the paint companies recommendations as far as any type of sealer they call for. I have attached the tech sheet for Slick Sand. Hope this helps. Thank you again for choosing ITW Evercoat products for your project.



Thanks!



Donna Cassidy

ITW Evercoat

Auto Wax

Customer Service

Wishing you & your family a very joyful & blessed holiday season

DUB

NOT CONTRADICTING THIS...Just explaining how 'things' work sometimes with product manufacturers. A phone call could yield a completely different response when some key questions are asked....so this is a corporate approved response.

KEY WORD: 'possibility'

Knowing that I generally err on the side of caution. When I am wetsanding the polyester primer I use I generally DO NOT put it right in the booth and paint it. It may take a few days to get it into the booth and masked off....and during that time....the primer is able to dry out. AND often times the car is outside in direct sunlight getting HOT.

KNOWING that some production paint shops are in a hurry...Evercoat states this so IF a person DOES wetsand and have a problem because they wipe it dry after wet sanding it and paint it right away....they can refuse a warranty claim.

AND this is also TRUE with the Vette Panel Adhesive ...where Evercoat states that it is NOT for structural...BUT IT IS...and they write that the VPA is NOT structural because there are a few idiots out there that try to bond a fiberglass ground effects kit to a steel frame and expect it to bond.

Knowing how to use a product and how to treat products can change how these products can be used.

OBVIOUSLY....a person can do as they wish and I hope I am NOT coming across in a manner that seems like I am being defiant and a renegade....and trying to make a person change their decision. I AM NOT....BUT.... Truthfully...I have discussions with many companies tech reps and sometimes can actually get patched into the lab where the chemists who make and test the stuff are and really find out what can be done with a product...and it is CLEARLY understood during our discussion that ANY actions I take that are NOT in the outlined reference material is all on me. And so for...to date....when I 'push' a product past what has been outlined in writing...I have had no failures due to KNOWING from the chemists actually how far I can 'push it' and still be OK....even though CORPORATE DECISIONS were made to keep the product in more of a comfortable zone for usage. Kinda like you car. You have a gas pedal tat can take to to 100+mph if you press down and hold ti long enough...but you don't use it all the time....BUT your car will operate fine ...under the right conditions when you drive it at 100+ mph.

Best of luck in you next stage of repair of your Corvette. The priming gates is a great time. All of the bodywork is done....and NOW it is time to sit down and carefully sand out the primer to get the finish to what you want when completed.

DUB