Painting my hood and need serious help?
03-10-2017, 11:51 PM
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Painting my hood and need serious help?
So I started painting my hood today and didn't get quite finished. I got the primer and base coat down an the sides but I am painting the center a different color. So I started laryngitis down my tape and noticed the paint was coming up a little when trying to adjust the tape so of course I stopped. I got all the tape off without any problems. So my problem is the weather is supposed to turn to crap overnight so what am p supposed to do? Tomorrow the high will be rainy and 60* but then Sunday it's supposed to be clear but only in the 50s. I read I need to have it cleared within 24 hours to get proper adhesion. What do I do?
03-11-2017, 05:24 PM
#2
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This is where you either take a chance by applying tape on fresh basecoat....and have it lift due to the adhesion of the tape you are using....OR....you shoot the car at the end of the day and allow the base to dry over night but YET still in your 24 hour window. So...when you come in the next morning...and apply tape...the tape is less likely to lift the base coat paint that is drier. Keep in mind...that the colder it is BELOW ambient air temperature (70-85 degrees) the longer the paint can take to dry.
Also....the worst weather condition for basecoat is for it to be allowed to stay OPEN...thus no clear on it...and allow it to get moisture in it. SO...really humid conditions or rain can effect it on a microscopic adhesion level. The basecoat CAN absorb this moisture. I do sometimes allow the basecoat to stay OPEN....but I am doing it when I know my weather is somewhat consistent and watch the weather...and IF I get caught by freak rainstorm, etc. I use my infra red heaters to heat up the basecoat before I go to the next step.
OR....you apply the color and then clear it. IF only one panel is having the stripe added to it. clear the other panels as you normally would...BUT...only apply ONE good coat of clear on the hood ( for example). Then the next day...you sand and prep the hood so you can apply your tape as long as you allowed the clear to dry long enough to do so.
Common sense would apply for those steps I left out....such as masking off the panels that you already cleared and do not need any more clear...and making sure the clear on the panel you need to apply the paint for the stripe is also properly prepped.
DUB
Also....the worst weather condition for basecoat is for it to be allowed to stay OPEN...thus no clear on it...and allow it to get moisture in it. SO...really humid conditions or rain can effect it on a microscopic adhesion level. The basecoat CAN absorb this moisture. I do sometimes allow the basecoat to stay OPEN....but I am doing it when I know my weather is somewhat consistent and watch the weather...and IF I get caught by freak rainstorm, etc. I use my infra red heaters to heat up the basecoat before I go to the next step.
OR....you apply the color and then clear it. IF only one panel is having the stripe added to it. clear the other panels as you normally would...BUT...only apply ONE good coat of clear on the hood ( for example). Then the next day...you sand and prep the hood so you can apply your tape as long as you allowed the clear to dry long enough to do so.
Common sense would apply for those steps I left out....such as masking off the panels that you already cleared and do not need any more clear...and making sure the clear on the panel you need to apply the paint for the stripe is also properly prepped.
DUB
03-11-2017, 05:44 PM
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So I got it finished this morning. Everything was good but when I was laying down the clear I somehow got a few big deluded bronze drops on the white. Smh don't know where it came from. So waiting on it to dry then sand and redo it
03-11-2017, 05:58 PM
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That is when I walk away from it and get a fresh start and do not lose any sleep over that stuff any more. God knows I have had my fair share of paint job mishaps during a paint job.DUB
03-11-2017, 07:48 PM
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Yea it was a 100% chance of rain starting around 3am ended up sprinkling for a total of 3 min luckily after I painted
Last edited by Danny.reamer; 03-11-2017 at 07:49 PM.
03-12-2017, 11:16 PM
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So I screwed up today! My OCD kick in and after I fixed the spots that got messed up I thought to myself "well I'm just going to repainted this whole side so it will look perfect" Well that was the wrong thing to do let me tell you. The whole side wrinkled up and looked like horrible. So now this is my dilemma I have it all sanded down now but I can still see little traces of where it wrinkled but it is perfectly smooth. Should I be ok now to respray it tomorrow or what should I do?
03-13-2017, 05:57 PM
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Not knowing what you are actually using for product....and the procedure you are using(flash times. etc)...and the reducer/thinners you are using and so on. I can say that the effect that is still in the finish need sot be taken out.
Sometimes clear coats that have a reducer/thinner in them can actually attack the previously applied SAME EXACT CLEAR. This can be due to the previously applied clear was not dry enough to allow it to lay on top of the clear...but instead....the reducer/thinner has enough penetrating properties that it can bite into the previously applied clear coat and cause it to wrinkle. I have had this happen to me before.
If you want to try and spray a very small area and SEE what happens.....go ahead. You might find that it may be OK...or get even worse due to the viscosity of the clear can not get into the cracks and fill them in.....or the clear may be thin enough to fill in the cracks t but penetrates further down and gets it to wrinkle worse.
Knowing that this may be too late to ask..but did you obtain the product information bulletin on the products you are using so you could see what the manufacturer recommends on how they must be used and what would need to be done it they had to be recoated???
DUB
Sometimes clear coats that have a reducer/thinner in them can actually attack the previously applied SAME EXACT CLEAR. This can be due to the previously applied clear was not dry enough to allow it to lay on top of the clear...but instead....the reducer/thinner has enough penetrating properties that it can bite into the previously applied clear coat and cause it to wrinkle. I have had this happen to me before.
If you want to try and spray a very small area and SEE what happens.....go ahead. You might find that it may be OK...or get even worse due to the viscosity of the clear can not get into the cracks and fill them in.....or the clear may be thin enough to fill in the cracks t but penetrates further down and gets it to wrinkle worse.
Knowing that this may be too late to ask..but did you obtain the product information bulletin on the products you are using so you could see what the manufacturer recommends on how they must be used and what would need to be done it they had to be recoated???
DUB