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Originally Posted by Alan 71
(Post 1593663427)
Hi nix,
I wish I could offer some help but what you're doing is really beyond my abilities. You wrote about your anxiety level and getting the car so far apart. I DID experience that and for a LONG time because my pace was so slow. I realized in the end that pictures, notes and drawings saved my hide… you can't have too many pictures to refer to. You'll likely find that half the pictures you have should of had the camera moved 2" in order to get the detail to answer your question….. so take at least twice as many as you think you should! Regards, Alan It's incredible how nice cars can look and still be rusty! the main difference between his car and yours Alan in regards to the repair needed is his steel floor is spot welded along the edge of his channel. |
Just a small update - I managed to get everything on the front disconnected last weekend. All that's left is the rear bumper cover, tranny connections and parking brake. I think... I'm going to need to get some new front markers as the plastic post broke off while trying to get the quick thread nuts off...ugg.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...a131b3c9c8.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...892c2e06f2.jpg |
Cut out the body mount areas in both A and B pillars. Clean up the old steel. I painted mine with POR15 along with the rest of the birdcage. The front section of the 3 piece rocker channel fits up into the A pillar from the bottom, the rear section of the 3 piece rocker channel fits up into the B pillar, and then install the center channel beneath them and secure it with 2 bolts which there should be 2 removable plugs for the bolt holes in the door threshold. Weld the center channel to the existing old channel cleaning the areas that are to be welded from paint, etc. Do not weld the front or rear sections to the center channel or anywhere else yet. Do 1 side at a time. Now remove the bolts from the center channels and mount the body back onto the frame and shim the mounts to get good door gaps, trial and error to get it right. Once the body is tightened to the frame, weld the front sections through the kick panels and the rear section through the body mount access panel in the rear wheel wells. Remove any flammable materials, carpet, etc. near the kick panels before welding.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/e...s/IMG_0546.jpg http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/e...s/IMG_0545.jpg http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/e...s/IMG_0539.jpg http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/e...s/IMG_0538.jpg |
@MIKE80 Thanks for the write-up on install. Most my thought has been around lift off, but looming is the actual repair and having everything line back up! Even MORE anxiety! LOL! I was wondering if I should weld the inserts on the channel first. I measured everything out and if you line up the mount holes everything dimensionally seems to be right-on. So, I was going to clean everything up (blast, paint, etc) then weld the assembly together then weld the assembly to the car starting with the channel then front and rear pillar inserts - using reference points on the assembly and the car... is there a big difference in welding the pillar inserts after the body is back down vs while it's off prior to re-assembly?
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Originally Posted by nix1981
(Post 1593702948)
@MIKE80 Thanks for the write-up on install. Most my thought has been around lift off, but looming is the actual repair and having everything line back up! Even MORE anxiety! LOL! I was wondering if I should weld the inserts on the channel first. I measured everything out and if you line up the mount holes everything dimensionally seems to be right-on. So, I was going to clean everything up (blast, paint, etc) then weld the assembly together then weld the assembly to the car starting with the channel then front and rear pillar inserts - using reference points on the assembly and the car... is there a big difference in welding the pillar inserts after the body is back down vs while it's off prior to re-assembly?
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Mike, PM'd. Thanks!
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FWIW, I had my lift straps shortened. I have a ratchet set if I need them. Each strap is now 60" from the end of the loop to the end of the hook. Did a quick test fit and all seems to be good. I should get the clearance I need. :thumbs:
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...77257ee661.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...a4b70b266e.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...afe3224264.jpg |
I'm a ways off from worrying about this, but I managed to break one of the tabs on the headlight housing. Should I hunt for a new one or is JB welding this acceptable? All the other bolts (5 on each) came out fine but this one...I didn't have good enough light when doing this so I was going purely on feel...and it was turning - ugg.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...9472190576.jpg |
In case you haven't seen them yet, here is a link to the rocker channel insert instructions: Instructions. It is basically what Mike80 mentioned.
I'm starting to think again about installing mine after letting the project sit for just over 8 years now. Ouch! |
Hi nix,
Well! That's not very nice! The frames are pretty expensive so I think I'd try a repair first before buying another. You'll need to be careful reinstalling it so you don't put too much tension on the repair when you install the bolts in the other corners.. Regards, Alan |
I got (I think) everything unhooked except the rear bumper cover - ugg! Those screws are a beeotch! The two top corners. The heads have stripped and are still tight so can really get a sawsall in there or from the top.... any suggestions?????
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Scheduled lift off is New Years Day!
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Good Luck ,take it slow and steady , don't rush it ! and listen carefully
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Success! :rock: It went really well actually. There were a few things I didn't have unhooked - alt power into the battery box, fuel vapor canister line, etc. Once that was done, pulled it up, moved the chassis out, then pulled the dolly in and set it down. :D
After my nerves calmed down I realize there's a lot of work to do. Frame and everything looks pretty good. The rocker channels actually look pretty good too except for the #2 and #3 mounts - they're destroyed. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...b3239b033f.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...0259710d6b.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...17d877f90c.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...94cafcfd16.jpg |
Cool , The Mrs gave you a hand !
glad it went well for you. looking forward to seeing you tackle the mount areas. |
Yep, she helped!
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Glad to see that the body came off the frame for you.
As for your broken headlight actuator support. They can be welded. I will keep an eye on this thread so if I can add any advice or tricks....I will do so. DUB |
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I posted a new tread with this question but I'll ask on this one as well. The lift went well, no knocking around or anything and special attention was given to the distributor but when looking at the chassis once everything was off I noticed that the distributor is angled a bit. No sign of damage or scape marks on the firewall etc. - the car ran well with zero issues prior to starting the tear down. Is it supposed to be angled????
Attachment 48050050Attachment 48050049 |
If you have any concerns....because I can see what you are 'talking' about.
I would remove the distributor cap...turn the engine until you get to the number 1 firing position...then I would pull the distributor and manually spin it. If it has a bind in it...then it is tweaked. If it is good then put it back in and set the timing when you can get to that point. DUB |
Just a few more photos. You can see how much room I don't have... I also found the build sheet. You can't read much from it but am able to get the dealer number etc. I've got to narrow down the zone...I need a black light. Kind of cool.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...fb5b60d8a9.jpg Pano pic https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...8ea200ad15.jpg build sheet on the fuel tank. |
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