03Z06 Time Attack built.
03-12-2012, 05:55 PM
#1
03Z06 Time Attack built, rollbar pics.
Mostly safety and maintenance. I will add more pics as I go along.
New 04 shocks, SKF wheelbearings and a new 2 core rad with some ducting to help airflow a little.
Motor will be stock save for the SLP U/D pully, intake flip mod and the Borla Xpipe. The X pipe was for sound only and my stock harmonic balancer was shot, so I upgraded. I also took out the AC while I was down there.
Rollbar.
A local raceshop supplied the 1.75 x 095 DOM at $7/ft, and bend up my main hoop for $10/bend. I did all the welding and coping myself. Metalgeek.com have a great coping calculator and made things a lot easier. All in was under $350!
Note the extra gussets on the rear bulkhead corners and I also tied into the seatbelt bolts.
New 04 shocks, SKF wheelbearings and a new 2 core rad with some ducting to help airflow a little.
Motor will be stock save for the SLP U/D pully, intake flip mod and the Borla Xpipe. The X pipe was for sound only and my stock harmonic balancer was shot, so I upgraded. I also took out the AC while I was down there.
Rollbar.
A local raceshop supplied the 1.75 x 095 DOM at $7/ft, and bend up my main hoop for $10/bend. I did all the welding and coping myself. Metalgeek.com have a great coping calculator and made things a lot easier. All in was under $350!
Note the extra gussets on the rear bulkhead corners and I also tied into the seatbelt bolts.
Last edited by Z06VENOM; 03-12-2012 at 06:12 PM. Reason: title edit
03-12-2012, 11:34 PM
#6
Tech Contributor
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Great way to mount the roll bar. Welded to the B Pillar it transfers any loading directly to the frame. Not many (even from so called name brand mfgr's) are done as well.
Bill
Bill
03-13-2012, 12:23 AM
#7
Burning Brakes
Lots of issues with SLP balances...a local guy just lunched a LS6 from timing chain failure. Was running an SPL balancer.
03-13-2012, 08:00 AM
#8
Racer
fab work quality looks good but the main hoop has 7 bends (that I see), most CCR's spec a max of 4
03-13-2012, 09:38 AM
#9
Safety Car
03-13-2012, 11:11 AM
#10
Melting Slicks
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You guys are talking about section 15.6 where it spells out how many bends the main hoop can have and that is only for W2W cars.
If you follow the GCR this would be legal and he shouldn't have a problem passing tech. If he decided down the line to make it into a full cage then he would have a problem.
I also agree with the guys above, installing the SLP balancer is risky ATI or stock is the only way to go. We are just trying to save you from a possible timing chain failure.
03-13-2012, 11:50 AM
#11
Safety Car
Your engine is a living and breathing thing and each component should be healthy. Pay careful attention to these 3 components.
03-13-2012, 08:22 PM
#12
1st. Thanks everyone for the advice/tips! I've been running in TA events for over 10 yrs (2 class championships under my belt), but this is my first Corvette. New to the LS powerplant I welcome all the comments, please keep them coming...
I just finished the pulley install last week
What a job, it took me 2 weekends to do...grrrrr
What is the deal with these pulleys? How do they work, and what makes the ATI better than the SLP?
As for the rollbar, I wanted enough room to fit a 6ft passenger and/or driver for ride alongs/show&tell when I instuct, and still be safe.
I realised that it is not ideal for so many bends, but was hoping the extra gussets and seatbelt bolt mounts would make up for it. There is also 3/16 plates welded up into the corners to help spread the load for the gussets.
What do you guys think, is it safe?
), but this is my first Corvette. New to the LS powerplant I welcome all the comments, please keep them coming...I just finished the pulley install last week
What a job, it took me 2 weekends to do...grrrrr What is the deal with these pulleys? How do they work, and what makes the ATI better than the SLP?
As for the rollbar, I wanted enough room to fit a 6ft passenger and/or driver for ride alongs/show&tell when I instuct, and still be safe.
I realised that it is not ideal for so many bends, but was hoping the extra gussets and seatbelt bolt mounts would make up for it. There is also 3/16 plates welded up into the corners to help spread the load for the gussets.
What do you guys think, is it safe?
03-13-2012, 09:49 PM
#13
Race Director
1st. Thanks everyone for the advice/tips! I've been running in TA events for over 10 yrs (2 class championships under my belt), but this is my first Corvette. New to the LS powerplant I welcome all the comments, please keep them coming...
I just finished the pulley install last week What a job, it took me 2 weekends to do...grrrrr
What is the deal with these pulleys? How do they work, and what makes the ATI better than the SLP?
They need the quality & the mass to dampen engine "vibrations" (way over simplified). Only the oem & the ATI seem to pass the test. If you take it to 80% & stop you'd probably be ok for a while.
As for the rollbar, I wanted enough room to fit a 6ft passenger and/or driver for ride alongs/show&tell when I instuct, and still be safe.
I realised that it is not ideal for so many bends, but was hoping the extra gussets and seatbelt bolt mounts would make up for it. There is also 3/16 plates welded up into the corners to help spread the load for the gussets.
What do you guys think, is it safe?
), but this is my first Corvette. New to the LS powerplant I welcome all the comments, please keep them coming...I just finished the pulley install last week
What a job, it took me 2 weekends to do...grrrrr What is the deal with these pulleys? How do they work, and what makes the ATI better than the SLP?
They need the quality & the mass to dampen engine "vibrations" (way over simplified). Only the oem & the ATI seem to pass the test. If you take it to 80% & stop you'd probably be ok for a while.
As for the rollbar, I wanted enough room to fit a 6ft passenger and/or driver for ride alongs/show&tell when I instuct, and still be safe.
I realised that it is not ideal for so many bends, but was hoping the extra gussets and seatbelt bolt mounts would make up for it. There is also 3/16 plates welded up into the corners to help spread the load for the gussets.
What do you guys think, is it safe?
Embedded comments
03-14-2012, 11:10 AM
#15
NASA has changed the wording in the HPDE section of the GCR (which applies to TT) for 2012. If you look under section 11.4.7 it doesn't specify how many bends a roll bar should have - or direct you to the race car section (15.6) as it did in previous years. So for HPDE / TT he shouldn't have a problem passing tech.
You guys are talking about section 15.6 where it spells out how many bends the main hoop can have and that is only for W2W cars.
If you follow the GCR this would be legal and he shouldn't have a problem passing tech. If he decided down the line to make it into a full cage then he would have a problem.
I also agree with the guys above, installing the SLP balancer is risky ATI or stock is the only way to go. We are just trying to save you from a possible timing chain failure.
You guys are talking about section 15.6 where it spells out how many bends the main hoop can have and that is only for W2W cars.
If you follow the GCR this would be legal and he shouldn't have a problem passing tech. If he decided down the line to make it into a full cage then he would have a problem.
I also agree with the guys above, installing the SLP balancer is risky ATI or stock is the only way to go. We are just trying to save you from a possible timing chain failure.
Reading our rule book I should be fine.
2012 OTA Regulations (Ontario Time Attack)
main hoop read, no mention of the number of bends.
"1.3.13 One continuous length of tubing shall be used for the main hoop member with
smooth, continuous bends and no evidence of crimping or wall failure."
But in the road racing section they do.
03-14-2012, 02:05 PM
#17
Supporting Vendor
If you're considering a brake upgrade, the Hardbar/AP Racing T1 setup is on sale right now. More info on the Essex Site (we co-developed with Hardbar).
The main reason I'm posting is because I actually consider this upgrade aligned perfectly with your current "safety and maintenance" modifications. When you consider the spares pricing, the amount of discs and pads you'll consume, and the hassle of constantly bleeding and fiddling with your brakes, the kit is a tremendous bargain. Most of our customers tell us the kit is already paying for itself in pad and disc savings after a year and a half on the car. That doesn't even include the added confidence you'll have in the car during repeated lapping. Since the discs are similar size to the OEM, they also may not even bump you up in class in many TT or racing organizations (for example they SCCA T1 legal, which was the specific development goal).
The main reason I'm posting is because I actually consider this upgrade aligned perfectly with your current "safety and maintenance" modifications. When you consider the spares pricing, the amount of discs and pads you'll consume, and the hassle of constantly bleeding and fiddling with your brakes, the kit is a tremendous bargain. Most of our customers tell us the kit is already paying for itself in pad and disc savings after a year and a half on the car. That doesn't even include the added confidence you'll have in the car during repeated lapping. Since the discs are similar size to the OEM, they also may not even bump you up in class in many TT or racing organizations (for example they SCCA T1 legal, which was the specific development goal).
03-14-2012, 04:55 PM
#18
If you're considering a brake upgrade, the Hardbar/AP Racing T1 setup is on sale right now. More info on the Essex Site (we co-developed with Hardbar).
The main reason I'm posting is because I actually consider this upgrade aligned perfectly with your current "safety and maintenance" modifications. When you consider the spares pricing, the amount of discs and pads you'll consume, and the hassle of constantly bleeding and fiddling with your brakes, the kit is a tremendous bargain. Most of our customers tell us the kit is already paying for itself in pad and disc savings after a year and a half on the car. That doesn't even include the added confidence you'll have in the car during repeated lapping. Since the discs are similar size to the OEM, they also may not even bump you up in class in many TT or racing organizations (for example they SCCA T1 legal, which was the specific development goal).
The main reason I'm posting is because I actually consider this upgrade aligned perfectly with your current "safety and maintenance" modifications. When you consider the spares pricing, the amount of discs and pads you'll consume, and the hassle of constantly bleeding and fiddling with your brakes, the kit is a tremendous bargain. Most of our customers tell us the kit is already paying for itself in pad and disc savings after a year and a half on the car. That doesn't even include the added confidence you'll have in the car during repeated lapping. Since the discs are similar size to the OEM, they also may not even bump you up in class in many TT or racing organizations (for example they SCCA T1 legal, which was the specific development goal).
This year I plan to run Project U Club Racer pads with disposable rotors for competition and HP+ with DBA's for street and light track duty.
I won the pads and fluids at an event last year and one of our fastest drivers are running these. Just hope they are as good as the DTC70's I've been running for the last couple years.
Last edited by Z06VENOM; 03-14-2012 at 04:58 PM. Reason: added pictures
03-15-2012, 07:51 AM
#19
Supporting Vendor
Those are very nice indeed, but I am already setup for this season thanks.
This year I plan to run Project U Club Racer pads with disposable rotors for competition and HP+ with DBA's for street and light track duty.
I won the pads and fluids at an event last year and one of our fastest drivers are running these. Just hope they are as good as the DTC70's I've been running for the last couple years.
This year I plan to run Project U Club Racer pads with disposable rotors for competition and HP+ with DBA's for street and light track duty.
I won the pads and fluids at an event last year and one of our fastest drivers are running these. Just hope they are as good as the DTC70's I've been running for the last couple years.
While I'm not sure of the specs on those particular pads, I will say that Project Mu makes excellent, high quality pads as a general rule. Quite a few cars in NASCAR Sprint Cup run their compounds. The fact that you got the parts for free...bonus!
Just let me know if you get tired of disposing your disposable rotors! It never seems like much of a hassle at the beginning, but when you're bleeding brakes between sessions (or missing sessions to work on your car), it can become a real headache. As I said though, only do what you need for you. Good luck with finishing the build, and have a fun and safe time out in the new car.
ps I didn't see anything in your thread about brake ducting. You should definitely put some good brake ducts on the car regardless of if you plan on staying with stock components or moving to a BBK.
Last edited by JRitt@essex; 03-15-2012 at 07:53 AM. Reason: added duct info
03-22-2012, 07:54 PM
#20
Understood Venom. I always recommend going with the minimum you need for you. That means if you don't believe you'll need a big brake kit, then don't waste your money on one! I just wasn't sure if that was one of the mods in your plans.
While I'm not sure of the specs on those particular pads, I will say that Project Mu makes excellent, high quality pads as a general rule. Quite a few cars in NASCAR Sprint Cup run their compounds. The fact that you got the parts for free...bonus!
Just let me know if you get tired of disposing your disposable rotors! It never seems like much of a hassle at the beginning, but when you're bleeding brakes between sessions (or missing sessions to work on your car), it can become a real headache. As I said though, only do what you need for you. Good luck with finishing the build, and have a fun and safe time out in the new car.
ps I didn't see anything in your thread about brake ducting. You should definitely put some good brake ducts on the car regardless of if you plan on staying with stock components or moving to a BBK.
While I'm not sure of the specs on those particular pads, I will say that Project Mu makes excellent, high quality pads as a general rule. Quite a few cars in NASCAR Sprint Cup run their compounds. The fact that you got the parts for free...bonus!
Just let me know if you get tired of disposing your disposable rotors! It never seems like much of a hassle at the beginning, but when you're bleeding brakes between sessions (or missing sessions to work on your car), it can become a real headache. As I said though, only do what you need for you. Good luck with finishing the build, and have a fun and safe time out in the new car.
ps I didn't see anything in your thread about brake ducting. You should definitely put some good brake ducts on the car regardless of if you plan on staying with stock components or moving to a BBK.
Thank you, I am going to look into getting better ducting soon.