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C6 Intake Design

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Old 07-23-2016, 02:33 PM
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ST10
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Default C6 Intake Design

I was looking to add horsepower to my 08 Coupe. I see that the Z06 has a scoop at the front of the hood to draw ambient air into the engine. Why in the world did the manufacturer not do that for all C6?

By drawing in ambient air, you get a better air/fuel mixture for combustion than hot air underneath the hood. This makes for a better burn in the engine. I am a mechanical engineer and knows all too well about thermodynamics.

So the simplest modification I can do to the car is to install a CAI system. Looks like the Vararam is the best choice except the material may be "flimsy". As for all the stuff about water getting into the scoop, that is almost impossible unless you submerge the intake into water and the water level get as high as the hood. It would take a pump to pump any significant water into the engine otherwise (static pressure from air intake is not that strong). The static pressure from the air being pull is not strong enough to pull any significant water into the engine.

The Vararam has a vortex design which helps increase the air static pressure. This only occurs when the car is moving and air is being "force" into the intake. The vortex design increase the static pressure gain and therefore "add" static pressure for combustion. But all that is negligible compare to "fresh" air for combustion. That is where the real gain occurs. Better burning means more HP!
Old 07-23-2016, 08:59 PM
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CMY SIX
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your an engineer and you don't see how GM has separated the intake from the hot engine compartment
Old 07-23-2016, 11:49 PM
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Default C6 Intake Design

I agree on the "cold" air. Also like the increased static pressure. Tried a Vararam on my 2007 Z06, and it had major fitment issues. Returned it and built my own equivalent. Look into a Halltech with Beehive combined with a Vette-Air scoop. I went with K&N with a Beehive cut to fit the K&N instead of Halltech intake. But then added the Vette-Air scoop. Immediate results. So much so that I threw code for banks 1 & 2 too lean. Had to tune to get A/F ratio fixed. I used a Predator with a DiabLew custom email tune. Very happy with my setup, and the tune.

Last edited by long_tall_texan; 07-23-2016 at 11:51 PM.
Old 07-24-2016, 09:38 AM
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the intakes on our cars are very optimized and nobody I'm aware of can show power gains with an intake. That said you can do the toggle bolt mod to get some more cool air with the only downside being the intake will get dirtier and possible be more susceptible to hydrolock.

Bottom line is if you want to optimize anything, you go after what is bad, not what is good.

Headers are where all the easy power gains are. then about 10 other things before intake can't flow whatever is needed.
Old 07-24-2016, 04:47 PM
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Yes. Toggle bolt mod is similar to the Vette-Air scoop. See here: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...gle-bolts.html

I added the Beehive for additional help in aiding keeping the engine bay heat away from the air intake.
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Old 07-24-2016, 05:26 PM
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After reading all the positive posts on the Vararam I installed one a couple of years ago. Short story was a bad experience with quality of product. I could not in good conscience pass this product on for money so it ended up in my garbage can. I will never buy another product from this company.
Old 07-25-2016, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by CMY SIX
your an engineer and you don't see how GM has separated the intake from the hot engine compartment
I guess they thought it out pretty good huh? Place the intake right next to the radiator discharge (hottest part of discharge from the engine) and provide a flimsy piece of plastic to SEPARATE the hottest air from the intake chamber. It doesn't take a genius to figure out that the thermal conductivity of the 1/4 inch plastic piece is zilch. Not to mention the fact that all this is happening under a hood that is at least 15 degree above ambient temperature.

So would taking air from the front fender or the top of the hood make more sense?
Old 07-25-2016, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by long_tall_texan
I agree on the "cold" air. Also like the increased static pressure. Tried a Vararam on my 2007 Z06, and it had major fitment issues. Returned it and built my own equivalent. Look into a Halltech with Beehive combined with a Vette-Air scoop. I went with K&N with a Beehive cut to fit the K&N instead of Halltech intake. But then added the Vette-Air scoop. Immediate results. So much so that I threw code for banks 1 & 2 too lean. Had to tune to get A/F ratio fixed. I used a Predator with a DiabLew custom email tune. Very happy with my setup, and the tune.
After reading here, I came up with the same conclusion as what you recommended but it was too late. I ordered the Vararam system in my haste.

I think the best option would have been to order the hood with the scoop in front and modified my intake to get air above the hood. It's the path of least resistance as the Vararam has a "Z" shape which will cut down on the static pressure.
Old 07-25-2016, 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by ST10
1/4 inch plastic piece is zilch.
Heck. It would be nice if it was 1/4" thick. I'd be surprised if it was 1/8 thick. I cut the hole for my Vette-Air scoop with a single box cutter blade.

And from OBD2 readings, with my setup, IAT and ambient are only about 2 degrees different while moving. Less than 10 at idle on a hot Texas afternoon.
Old 07-25-2016, 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by long_tall_texan
Heck. It would be nice if it was 1/4" thick. I'd be surprised if it was 1/8 thick. I cut the hole for my Vette-Air scoop with a single box cutter blade.

And from OBD2 readings, with my setup, IAT and ambient are only about 2 degrees different while moving. Less than 10 at idle on a hot Texas afternoon.
That is the best option! In my haste, I ordered the Vararam system. Then realized taking air from the scoop is the best way about it. It's the path of least static pressure resistance...the Vararam is a "Z" shape and the pressure loss is significant when compare to the scoop.

Last edited by ST10; 07-25-2016 at 07:36 PM.
Old 07-25-2016, 09:34 PM
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FYI, the naca duct on the front has zero to do with the intake and cold air intake.
Old 07-26-2016, 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by ST10
That is the best option! In my haste, I ordered the Vararam system. Then realized taking air from the scoop is the best way about it. It's the path of least static pressure resistance...the Vararam is a "Z" shape and the pressure loss is significant when compare to the scoop.
I'm gonna leave the grammar alone...but seriously, do you really think there's going to be much, if any, concern with friction loss after its already gone through the filter?
Old 07-26-2016, 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by ST10
After reading here, I came up with the same conclusion as what you recommended but it was too late. I ordered the Vararam system in my haste.

I think the best option would have been to order the hood with the scoop in front and modified my intake to get air above the hood. It's the path of least resistance as the Vararam has a "Z" shape which will cut down on the static pressure.
try it first.there is nothing wrong with the quality of the Vararam with its gentle S bend and scoop.my car picked up 4/10's with it
Old 07-26-2016, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by let er eat
I'm gonna leave the grammar alone...but seriously, do you really think there's going to be much, if any, concern with friction loss after its already gone through the filter?
The "S" is equivalent to about 4 times the straight run in term of static pressure loss for air. If it was fluid, it would not be bad because the pump usually pump high static pressure. But for air, static pressure means everything because the density of air is a lot different then the density of fluid. It's harder for air direction to change direction.

I don't race so 1/10th of a second doesn't mean much to me but for some else, that may be all he or she needs.

And like someone said here, all the air coming in doesn't do much unless you have the exhaust system to exhaust it. "What comes in must go out." So if the exhaust is restricted, you probably won't see much gain. Luckily I have the upgraded exhaust system from the factory. Again, I don't know why the factory doesn't give you the upgraded exhaust system.
Old 07-26-2016, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by ST10

The "S" is equivalent to about 4 times the straight run in term of static pressure loss for air. If it was fluid, it would not be bad because the pump usually pump high static pressure. But for air, static pressure means everything because the density of air is a lot different then the density of fluid. It's harder for air direction to change direction.

I don't race so 1/10th of a second doesn't mean much to me but for some else, that may be all he or she needs.

And like someone said here, all the air coming in doesn't do much unless you have the exhaust system to exhaust it. "What comes in must go out." So if the exhaust is restricted, you probably won't see much gain. Luckily I have the upgraded exhaust system from the factory. Again, I don't know why the factory doesn't give you the upgraded exhaust system.
I said 4/10's not a 1/10.that is quite a difference.I will take as many mods that anyone cares to sell me that will pick up 4/10's at same price of the Vararam.

Last edited by irok; 07-26-2016 at 11:11 AM.
Old 07-26-2016, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by long_tall_texan
I agree on the "cold" air. Also like the increased static pressure. Tried a Vararam on my 2007 Z06, and it had major fitment issues. Returned it and built my own equivalent. Look into a Halltech with Beehive combined with a Vette-Air scoop. I went with K&N with a Beehive cut to fit the K&N instead of Halltech intake. But then added the Vette-Air scoop. Immediate results. So much so that I threw code for banks 1 & 2 too lean. Had to tune to get A/F ratio fixed. I used a Predator with a DiabLew custom email tune. Very happy with my setup, and the tune.
The Halltech with the Beehive Shroud worked great for me. When I opened the middle bottom shroud (like Vette Air) it caused surging issues on the highway. Instead, I cut the ends of the radiator shroud, Halltech describes procedure, allowing more cold air indirectly without any surge. Yes, the LS3/7 MAF is sensitive to turbulent air which will cause surging or codes. Some cars experience this while others do not.

Last edited by Mike's LS3; 07-26-2016 at 11:31 AM.
Old 07-26-2016, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by ST10

The "S" is equivalent to about 4 times the straight run in term of static pressure loss for air. If it was fluid, it would not be bad because the pump usually pump high static pressure. But for air, static pressure means everything because the density of air is a lot different then the density of fluid. It's harder for air direction to change direction.

I don't race so 1/10th of a second doesn't mean much to me but for some else, that may be all he or she needs.

And like someone said here, all the air coming in doesn't do much unless you have the exhaust system to exhaust it. "What comes in must go out." So if the exhaust is restricted, you probably won't see much gain. Luckily I have the upgraded exhaust system from the factory. Again, I don't know why the factory doesn't give you the upgraded exhaust system.
The stock 2 1/2" exhaust will be plenty for just an air intake mod. You need to go triple digit speeds to get any sort of "ram effect". The NPP exhaust option is nice and picks up 6 HP, however the exhaust manifolds are the main restriction. Up grading to headers will help or even the Z06/ZR1 exhaust system to stay legal.

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Old 07-26-2016, 11:35 AM
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I had the Vararam and fitment was sketchy but it felt fast and eager when driving. On a dyno we swapped over to a Halltech and gained about 5 rwhp, tuned for both with 60 mph fan on both. But idling in TX summer traffic the Halltech has notably higher IATs than the Vararam did.

I decided to keep the Halltech because of better fitment and looks, and full exposure of my radiator.

The Halltech did dyno better but honestly the Vararam felt more eager on the car but that could just be a poorly calibrated butt dyno.

Last edited by Suns_PSD; 07-26-2016 at 11:35 AM.
Old 07-26-2016, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Suns_PSD
I had the Vararam and fitment was sketchy but it felt fast and eager when driving. On a dyno we swapped over to a Halltech and gained about 5 rwhp, tuned for both with 60 mph fan on both. But idling in TX summer traffic the Halltech has notably higher IATs than the Vararam did.

I decided to keep the Halltech because of better fitment and looks, and full exposure of my radiator.

The Halltech did dyno better but honestly the Vararam felt more eager on the car but that could just be a poorly calibrated butt dyno.
Which Halltech intake did you have?
Old 07-26-2016, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike's LS3
The Halltech with the Beehive Shroud worked great for me. When I opened the middle bottom shroud (like Vette Air) it caused surging issues on the highway. Instead, I cut the ends of the radiator shroud, Halltech describes procedure, allowing more cold air indirectly without any surge. Yes, the LS3/7 MAF is sensitive to turbulent air which will cause surging or codes. Some cars experience this while others do not.
I'm one of the lucky ones that does not experience any surging with the Vette-Air scoop. Then again, I had mine tuned after install, with data logging on street and highway use, so that may be why I don't see any surging.


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