Halltech Stinger-RZ Dyno just in-WOW!
#1
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St. Jude Donor '09
Halltech Stinger-RZ Dyno just in-WOW!
No blather needed: +52 @ 6000 rpm
Halltech Stinger-RZ- Stock tune. Only mod.
Halltech Stinger-RZ- Stock tune. Only mod.
__________________
"World Class Performance for your Corvette"
Intake Design and Engineering since 1999
Halltech Systems, LLC
262-510-7600
For service email:
orders@halltechsystems.com
www.halltechsystems.com
"World Class Performance for your Corvette"
Intake Design and Engineering since 1999
Halltech Systems, LLC
262-510-7600
For service email:
orders@halltechsystems.com
www.halltechsystems.com
Last edited by Halltech; 07-24-2016 at 06:54 AM.
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Bad Dad (07-24-2016)
#2
Excellent work !! I'm very happy with mine. It really roars and can hear the supercharger whine !!
Can't wait for your ram air setup !
Can't wait for your ram air setup !
Last edited by Steve Garrett; 07-24-2016 at 01:27 PM. Reason: No need to re-quote the OP, especially if you're the next person posting.
#6
Drifting
Congrats - you do great work.
Last edited by Newton06; 07-24-2016 at 11:33 AM.
#7
I put mine on yesterday. Going to the track next weekend (road course) and I'm hoping it gets me back some of the power lost in the high heat.
Can someone please post a pic of how the coolant lines are supposed to look when complete? I'm really not convinced mine are correct and it's making me nervous.
Can someone please post a pic of how the coolant lines are supposed to look when complete? I'm really not convinced mine are correct and it's making me nervous.
#8
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St. Jude Donor '09
I put mine on yesterday. Going to the track next weekend (road course) and I'm hoping it gets me back some of the power lost in the high heat.
Can someone please post a pic of how the coolant lines are supposed to look when complete? I'm really not convinced mine are correct and it's making me nervous.
Can someone please post a pic of how the coolant lines are supposed to look when complete? I'm really not convinced mine are correct and it's making me nervous.
Under the intake tube:
#10
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St. Jude Donor '09
I put mine on yesterday. Going to the track next weekend (road course) and I'm hoping it gets me back some of the power lost in the high heat.
Can someone please post a pic of how the coolant lines are supposed to look when complete? I'm really not convinced mine are correct and it's making me nervous.
Can someone please post a pic of how the coolant lines are supposed to look when complete? I'm really not convinced mine are correct and it's making me nervous.
jim@halltechsystems.com
#11
This is how I have mine. The videos didn't give a good top down view.
#12
Drifting
#13
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St. Jude Donor '09
The bypass should have been long enough to route over the top of the intake tube (14"), It may cause an issue with closing the hood the way it is sandwiched between the radiator duct and the airbox.
If you can push it downward so that it does not crimp, it would be safer.
The most important part of the install by far is the radiator bottom hose positioning. It does not need to be moved much, but you cannot have that hose touching the airbox bottom. That will heat soak your air, and lose major hp. You need to put the aluminum shielding on it and then after slightly turning it counterclockwise, zip tie it to the other radiator hose. Make sure neither hose is crimped.
Watch the one video that shows how to easily loosen the hose clap.
If you can push it downward so that it does not crimp, it would be safer.
The most important part of the install by far is the radiator bottom hose positioning. It does not need to be moved much, but you cannot have that hose touching the airbox bottom. That will heat soak your air, and lose major hp. You need to put the aluminum shielding on it and then after slightly turning it counterclockwise, zip tie it to the other radiator hose. Make sure neither hose is crimped.
Watch the one video that shows how to easily loosen the hose clap.
Last edited by Halltech; 07-25-2016 at 01:04 PM.
#14
The bypass should have been long enough to route over the top of the intake tube (14"), It may cause an issue with closing the hood the way it is sandwiched between the radiator duct and the airbox.
If you can push it downward so that it does not crimp, it would be safer.
The most important part of the install by far is the radiator bottom hose positioning. It does not need to be moved much, but you cannot have that hose touching the airbox bottom. That will heat soak your air, and lose major hp. You need to put the aluminum shielding on it and then after slightly turning it counterclockwise, zip tie it to the other radiator hose. Make sure neither hose is crimped.
Watch the one video that shows how to easily loosen the hose clap.
If you can push it downward so that it does not crimp, it would be safer.
The most important part of the install by far is the radiator bottom hose positioning. It does not need to be moved much, but you cannot have that hose touching the airbox bottom. That will heat soak your air, and lose major hp. You need to put the aluminum shielding on it and then after slightly turning it counterclockwise, zip tie it to the other radiator hose. Make sure neither hose is crimped.
Watch the one video that shows how to easily loosen the hose clap.
thanks.