Innovators West 18% pulley swap DIY
09-25-2016, 09:19 AM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Innovators West 18% pulley swap DIY
Hey guys. Just did some mods to the car Friday and Saturday. Figured I'd help some of my C7 brothers out with a detailed DIY.
I have read other posts of doing this swap and feel like important things were left out.
Friday after work, I put the car on jack stands. I used the jack pucks on all 4 side locations. I took the front wheels off to help.
I started by removing the bottom shield so I could gain access to the steering rack.
Then I went up top and removed the radiator duct and intake tube/box
Then I removed sway bar, by taking off the mounts that hold it to the frame and sub-frame. Others hadn't done it this way, but it made things a lot easier. There are 2 little plastic sheilds below that are held on with 4 torx screws. They'll need to come off too.
Then you can pull the sway bar out and put it to the side
Then I removed the tie rod ends and unbolted the 4 bolts holding the steering rack in. The swaybar and tie rod ends are a little tricky/annoying. You need to hold the top with an 8mm and turn the nut with an 18mm wrench. It's a pain, but the come off.
Then I removed the fan/shroud assy. It's 2 bolts and a harness connection.
This needs to come off or you won't have room to get the steering rack out.
Busted out the impact and the stock bolt quickly came out. 125psi is what I had my tank set to.
Then you'll need a pulley puller. I rented one that's used for Chrysler. The pins that come with it are not going to work for this motor so I had to improvise. I used a socket with a 3/8" drive. The socket needs to be bigger than the bolt hole in the crank, and not too big so it doesn't fit inside the pulley.
The reason you need to use a 3/8 drive, is so the puller bolt won't start threading into your socket.
Once the old pulley is out, you'll see that there's no way the new 18% is going on. You'll need to raise the motor about 3/4". If you go under the car, you'll see 2 bolts each side, that go to the motor mounts. Take them off
Place a jack under the motor, at the bell housing, and put a 2x4 between the jack and bell housing. Then jack it up till you can get the new pulley on.
Now comes the tricky part.
You'll need an install tool of some kind. I got one off eBay for $18. It's just a piece of allthread with a welded nut and some washers under another adjustable nut. Thread the allthread in till it stops. Then start using the other nut/washers to start seating the pulley. You'll only get it to within a 1/2" and then that tool will not work. To get the final 1/2" this is what we did.
Take out the adjustable nut and 2 washers. Use just the allthread and 1 washer. Put the stock pulley up to the new one, and use it as a spacer. Use a beaker bar and finish the job. I did have to stop and add the other 2 washers once I got within a 1/8" of full seating it.
We used a straight edge and placed it on the top driver side pulley. We ran down the new crank pulley till the straight edge wash flush from one pulley to the next. This leg us know if we were aligned or not.
Take your time and it'll work out. We spent an hour taking it all apart and about 3 hours going back together.
As for the belts:
The stock ones come off easy. Take pics so you know how they're routed.
The AC belt comes off by pulling to the driver side with a 15mm on the pulley just above the piston looking tensioner.
To get it back on, you'll need to remove the T50 bolt in the top of the tensioner as well as the 15mm bolt just above it. This will give the pulley enough room to allow slipping the belt back on.
I have read other posts of doing this swap and feel like important things were left out.
Friday after work, I put the car on jack stands. I used the jack pucks on all 4 side locations. I took the front wheels off to help.
I started by removing the bottom shield so I could gain access to the steering rack.
Then I went up top and removed the radiator duct and intake tube/box
Then I removed sway bar, by taking off the mounts that hold it to the frame and sub-frame. Others hadn't done it this way, but it made things a lot easier. There are 2 little plastic sheilds below that are held on with 4 torx screws. They'll need to come off too.
Then you can pull the sway bar out and put it to the side
Then I removed the tie rod ends and unbolted the 4 bolts holding the steering rack in. The swaybar and tie rod ends are a little tricky/annoying. You need to hold the top with an 8mm and turn the nut with an 18mm wrench. It's a pain, but the come off.
Then I removed the fan/shroud assy. It's 2 bolts and a harness connection.
This needs to come off or you won't have room to get the steering rack out.
Busted out the impact and the stock bolt quickly came out. 125psi is what I had my tank set to.
Then you'll need a pulley puller. I rented one that's used for Chrysler. The pins that come with it are not going to work for this motor so I had to improvise. I used a socket with a 3/8" drive. The socket needs to be bigger than the bolt hole in the crank, and not too big so it doesn't fit inside the pulley.
The reason you need to use a 3/8 drive, is so the puller bolt won't start threading into your socket.
Once the old pulley is out, you'll see that there's no way the new 18% is going on. You'll need to raise the motor about 3/4". If you go under the car, you'll see 2 bolts each side, that go to the motor mounts. Take them off
Place a jack under the motor, at the bell housing, and put a 2x4 between the jack and bell housing. Then jack it up till you can get the new pulley on.
Now comes the tricky part.
You'll need an install tool of some kind. I got one off eBay for $18. It's just a piece of allthread with a welded nut and some washers under another adjustable nut. Thread the allthread in till it stops. Then start using the other nut/washers to start seating the pulley. You'll only get it to within a 1/2" and then that tool will not work. To get the final 1/2" this is what we did.
Take out the adjustable nut and 2 washers. Use just the allthread and 1 washer. Put the stock pulley up to the new one, and use it as a spacer. Use a beaker bar and finish the job. I did have to stop and add the other 2 washers once I got within a 1/8" of full seating it.
We used a straight edge and placed it on the top driver side pulley. We ran down the new crank pulley till the straight edge wash flush from one pulley to the next. This leg us know if we were aligned or not.
Take your time and it'll work out. We spent an hour taking it all apart and about 3 hours going back together.
As for the belts:
The stock ones come off easy. Take pics so you know how they're routed.
The AC belt comes off by pulling to the driver side with a 15mm on the pulley just above the piston looking tensioner.
To get it back on, you'll need to remove the T50 bolt in the top of the tensioner as well as the 15mm bolt just above it. This will give the pulley enough room to allow slipping the belt back on.
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GSpeed (09-25-2016)
09-25-2016, 09:22 AM
#4
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Oh, and there is one bolt holding the steering column to the rack. Just unbolt it and pull back on the column shaft. It slides right off
The following users liked this post:
GSpeed (09-25-2016)
09-25-2016, 09:24 AM
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I did this so others would know. I wished I took more pics, but that was the last thing on my mind. Lol
If you try this without removing the rack, shroud, swaybar, then it's a major *** whooping.
Just remove it all and get it done. I bet I could do it in 3 hours next time.
If you try this without removing the rack, shroud, swaybar, then it's a major *** whooping.
Just remove it all and get it done. I bet I could do it in 3 hours next time.
The following users liked this post:
GSpeed (09-25-2016)
09-26-2016, 12:39 AM
#6
wow
that's a lot of work.was it really worth it to take your new car apart and having to jack up the motor to put on a pulley?not breaking your *****,just wanting to know why you went this route?did you have to have the front end lined up after the install?
that's a lot of work.was it really worth it to take your new car apart and having to jack up the motor to put on a pulley?not breaking your *****,just wanting to know why you went this route?did you have to have the front end lined up after the install?
09-26-2016, 06:12 AM
#7
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Worth it? That's a matter of opinion I guess. To me, it was. I like wrenching on my cars. Anyone can drop their car off and write a check to a shop. I wish I knew to tune. Then I wouldn't even need a shop.
I also did the halltech intake and fasterproms expansion tank. Plus a DMS e85 setup and dual nozzle alky control kit. Plus corsa X pipe.
The pulley was the hardest part. And it was more time consuming then it was hard.
I also did the halltech intake and fasterproms expansion tank. Plus a DMS e85 setup and dual nozzle alky control kit. Plus corsa X pipe.
The pulley was the hardest part. And it was more time consuming then it was hard.
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c6txvette (01-15-2023)
09-26-2016, 06:14 AM
#8
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
According to GM, the alignment should still be good. The front end is pinned in place, so unless you swap out parts, or undo the lock nut on the tie Rod ends, then you're good.
Last edited by Dfwz06; 09-26-2016 at 10:18 PM.
09-26-2016, 09:44 PM
#9
11-21-2016, 07:43 AM
#10
Does steering rack need to come OUT or just move over?
11-21-2016, 07:47 AM
#12
Agree. Mine is unbolted and ready to come out but can't seem to clear all obstacles, like the ABS stuff, etc. What's the secret?
Another topic kinda related: good time to do swap/upgrade on accessory pulleys. Anyone seen availability?
Another topic kinda related: good time to do swap/upgrade on accessory pulleys. Anyone seen availability?
Last edited by MindBend; 11-21-2016 at 07:48 AM.
11-21-2016, 08:33 AM
#14
Fan out, yes. now sure what you mean by "seat bar"?
11-21-2016, 08:46 AM
#16
Yep. All are removed...things are tight. May be due to being on a 4 post lift to wheels are still on. Getting the part of the rack that attaches to the column past is the issue...has to exit driver side.
03-13-2019, 12:42 PM
#19
Safety Car
I did this job on my 99 auto c5. I did not need to touch my exhaust or starter. I simply bought the tool that I show below.....Works awesome and well worth the 40 bucks....In addition, i did not need to buy any installer tool. I simply heated the balancer hub up to 250 with a heat gun and slid it on a good deal of the way then used the arp bolt(without washer) to get it started. Yes, there were plenty of threads. Removed the arp bolt which was not really necessary and drove it home with the stock bolt....then reinstalled arp bolt and torqued it down to arp bolt specs........
Last edited by tabbruzz; 03-13-2019 at 04:14 PM. Reason: it would not post