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Is valvoline 80W-90 good for BW transmission

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Old 12-06-2016, 11:37 AM
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MOXIE62
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Default Is valvoline 80W-90 good for BW transmission

I've read on here that GL4 is what is required for 1963 borg warner transmission. The only GL4 is a Valvoline but it has limited slip on the label. Limited slip sounds more for the rear end. Will that work in a transmission.
Old 12-06-2016, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by MOXIE62
I've read on here that GL4 is what is required for 1963 borg warner transmission. The only GL4 is a Valvoline but it has limited slip on the label. Limited slip sounds more for the rear end. Will that work in a transmission.
It should be fine. But why not provide the exact Part Number and other product info so we can BE SURE of our answer.

Larry
Old 12-06-2016, 12:05 PM
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Old 12-06-2016, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Powershift
It should be fine. But why not provide the exact Part Number and other product info so we can BE SURE of our answer.

Larry
No. 831 valevoline
Old 12-06-2016, 01:12 PM
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Don't use LSD gear lube in your transmission. The friction modifiers can cause your synchros to slip. Valvoline, Sta-lube, Kendall, and many others make straight multi-vis 85w90. I've had great results over the years with both Sta-lube and Kendall.
Old 12-06-2016, 01:39 PM
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Pennzoil Synchromesh, or quality GL4 oil
Old 12-06-2016, 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by MOXIE62
I've read on here that GL4 is what is required for 1963 borg warner transmission. The only GL4 is a Valvoline but it has limited slip on the label. Limited slip sounds more for the rear end. Will that work in a transmission.
Where ever you read that it's WRONG!!!

Look at the owner's and service manual. The original spec was Mil-L-2105D, which was cancelled about 15 years ago and replaced by 80W-90 GL-5.

GL-5s often say on the label "suitable for limited slip differentials", however, most don't have the additive. It has to be added for LSDs, but don't add the LSD additive to the transmission.

Duke

Last edited by SWCDuke; 12-06-2016 at 03:41 PM.
Old 12-06-2016, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by hedgehead
This is what I purchased. More then likely, oil is oil as long as it's the right weight with no slip added to it. thanks everyone
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Old 12-06-2016, 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by SWCDuke
Where ever you read that it's WRONG!!!

Look at the owner's and service manual. The original spec was Mil-L-2105D, which was cancelled about 15 years ago and replaced by 80W-90 GL-5.

GL-5s often say on the label "suitable for limited slip differentials", however, most don't have the additive. It has to be added for LSDs, but don't add the LSD additive to the transmission.

Duke
don't use GL-5, some formulations may cause problems with brass parts.

Bill
Old 12-06-2016, 06:40 PM
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Brad Penn 80W90 is what I was told to use when i got my BW rebuild
Old 12-07-2016, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by wmf62
don't use GL-5, some formulations may cause problems with brass parts.

Bill
That's a myth promulgated by at least one oil vendor that I can think of. Repeat a myth often enough and people begin to believe it.

Millions of manual transmissions designed up to about 1970 and OE well into the eighties were factory filled with Mil-L-2105D/80W-90 GL-5, and many covered well over 100K miles without issue. Most transmission designs after the early seventies called for lower viscosity oil and usually the GL-4 service spec, but that doesn't mean those oils should be used for older designs.

The EP additive in GL-5 can corrode brass, but it only occurs at temperatures well above the operating temperature of typical installations and use.

I've seen worn synchronizers, but I have never seen or even heard of brass transmission parts that showed any evidence of corrosion, and neither has anyone else I've queried including members of this forum.

Duke
Old 12-07-2016, 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by SWCDuke
That's a myth promulgated by at least one oil vendor that I can think of. Repeat a myth often enough and people begin to believe it.

Millions of manual transmissions designed up to about 1970 and OE well into the eighties were factory filled with Mil-L-2105D/80W-90 GL-5, and many covered well over 100K miles without issue. Most transmission designs after the early seventies called for lower viscosity oil and usually the GL-4 service spec, but that doesn't mean those oils should be used for older designs.

The EP additive in GL-5 can corrode brass, but it only occurs at temperatures well above the operating temperature of typical installations and use.

I've seen worn synchronizers, but I have never seen or even heard of brass transmission parts that showed any evidence of corrosion, and neither has anyone else I've queried including members of this forum.

Duke

I respectfully disagree, when confronted with a synchro clash problem with my MY6, I contacted a number of refiners and some agreed that THEIR formulations COULD have an adverse affect on 'yellow' parts..

at this point I don't remember who said what, but Plasticman can verify the 'search'..

as to transmission heat, there have been threads on this forum where people have mentioned heat 'bluing' of shafts and gears. while not commonplace, it apparently does happens....

so, I still do not recommend using GL5 without contacting the refiner...; so, why risk it???




Bill
Old 12-08-2016, 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by SWCDuke
That's a myth promulgated by at least one oil vendor that I can think of. Repeat a myth often enough and people begin to believe it.

Millions of manual transmissions designed up to about 1970 and OE well into the eighties were factory filled with Mil-L-2105D/80W-90 GL-5, and many covered well over 100K miles without issue. Most transmission designs after the early seventies called for lower viscosity oil and usually the GL-4 service spec, but that doesn't mean those oils should be used for older designs.

The EP additive in GL-5 can corrode brass, but it only occurs at temperatures well above the operating temperature of typical installations and use.

I've seen worn synchronizers, but I have never seen or even heard of brass transmission parts that showed any evidence of corrosion, and neither has anyone else I've queried including members of this forum.

Duke
I agree with Duke 100% and then some. In 40 years of tearing into gearboxes and rear ends, I have never, ever seen gear oil cause deterioration of brass or bronze parts in any case. Only if water got in and sat for decades...(junkyard parts). I'm talking cars from the 'teens up through the 21st century. Synchros and thrust washers and bushings that have been immersed in gear oil for 50-70 years. No issues at all, ever. And I couldn't find a real human that has, either, on ANY automotive forum, at ANY automotive class, or in ANY automotive repair situation. I've been ASE certified for over 30 years, too. The only thing our OP had to be concerned about was fluid that was too thin or too slippery due to synthetic base or LSD additives. He chose a solid Dino oil and will have zero issues. Lots of well-meaning but ignorant folks are using the modern synchromesh fluid, which is super thin like ATF and engineered for modern transmissions. Not our primitive old 4 speeds. My opinion, and I'm sticking to it!
Old 12-08-2016, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by GTOguy
I agree with Duke 100% and then some. In 40 years of tearing into gearboxes and rear ends, I have never, ever seen gear oil cause deterioration of brass or bronze parts in any case. Only if water got in and sat for decades...(junkyard parts). I'm talking cars from the 'teens up through the 21st century. Synchros and thrust washers and bushings that have been immersed in gear oil for 50-70 years. No issues at all, ever. And I couldn't find a real human that has, either, on ANY automotive forum, at ANY automotive class, or in ANY automotive repair situation. I've been ASE certified for over 30 years, too. The only thing our OP had to be concerned about was fluid that was too thin or too slippery due to synthetic base or LSD additives. He chose a solid Dino oil and will have zero issues. Lots of well-meaning but ignorant folks are using the modern synchromesh fluid, which is super thin like ATF and engineered for modern transmissions. Not our primitive old 4 speeds. My opinion, and I'm sticking to it!
I disagree with duke on other things too, but all I know FOR SURE is that some formulations were not recommended by their makers for the reason I stated.

AND, I was not about to risk screwing up a relatively rare and expensive transmission.


Bill

Last edited by wmf62; 12-08-2016 at 11:08 AM.

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