dmcb

Newby here. Just bought a 1979 that has been sitting. Not running.
Can't get it out of park. Shift lever is working and it moves the lever at the tranny.
Is there some secret to this?
It is a project car that needs paint and a carb. It has less than 30,000 actual miles.
Hope there is a simple solution to this so I can get it home.
I should mention this. Removed the wheel on passenger side which is the one locked. It moves back and forth a fraction of an inch so the brake is not locked up. It has a metal on metal sound when it stops.
Thanks.
Doug

ShefmonC3

Doug.
You need to explain what is happening. Does the shifter move from park to drive, neutral and reverse or is it stuck in the park position? Do you mean that once in drive or reverse that it just will not move? Trying to figure out if you are explaining a linkage problem, transmission problem or drive line issue.

dmcb

Car will not start.
Car shifts with the shifter and it moves at the transmission.
However it doesn't seem to go out of park.
I just want to tow it home but of course can't if it won't come out of park.
I got under it and when someone shifts the cable moves the lever attached to the tranny.
It was driven in the garage with no problem.
Now has a carb problem that has to be fixed before it will start.
Doug

SwampeastMike

I presume you mean that the passenger rear wheel is locked. Correct?

If so there's a great chance that the transmission is moving out of park but the parking brake mechanism in that wheel is totally shot. The "metal-on-metal" noise you report definitely makes me think "parking brake".

You'll need to remove the brake caliper (two bolts hold it into place) from the rotor (no need to disconnect the hydraulic fluid line).

If untouched the rotor will be held on by a number of rivets. You have to drill off the caps you see and then punch the bodies through to the rear. The rotor will then pull off and you'll most likely see a terrible mess of brake shoes and other parts inside*. If the rotor has been removed/replaced before it will just pull off after removing the brake caliper.

* I say "inside" but you'll see how the parking brake mechanism is still enclosed in the spindle and why repairs to it are called akin to building a ship in a bottle.

dmcb

Yes the right rear wheel is locked.
What you say makes sense;
Thank you.
Doug

DUB

If you find that the parking brake is the issue...hopefully you can free it up.

I thought I read that you stated the the wheel will turn a fraction of an inch on both directions...but actually what are you calling a fraction of an inch??????

If the park brake handle was pulled at any time and then released...the lever in your park brake or cable on that side can now be frozen in position that one side.

It has only happened to me ONCE in 30+ years...but I had a Corvette come into the shop where the pinion gear broke a tooth off of it and lodged itself in the ring gear and did not allow the car to roll.

DUB

DUB

I will say that getting the rotor off with the wheel LOCKED...is not going to be an easy job ( or may not be easy). All you can hope for is that the inner park brake shoe surface area has not been worn down...and thus causing it to have a lip that the brake shoes can hang up on.

Be cautious of how aggressive you are with trying to pull the rotor off...because if you get way too harsh with it....there is a chance that you can actually damage your spindle in the process and thus....make it so when you put the rotor back on.....your brake rotor is now out of specification to aid in keeping your brakes on that side from failing.

Excessive rotor run-out can cause the pistons in your brake calipers to fluctuate too much in and out and either suck in air or begin to leak fluid.

DUB

SwampeastMike

Dub is FAR, FAR, FAR more experienced than me!

Should my diagnosis of parking brake problem prove true pay great heed to his advice.

If you can't remove the rotor with reasonable ease and lack the experience/tools/knowledge to proceed find a shop familiar with C3 Corvettes and have it moved on a flat bed. This won't be cheap but it will cost FAR less then if you damage the spindle.

dmcb

The movement would be about 1/16 of an inch.
Shouldn't be warn much as it has less than 30,000 miles on it.
And it was owned by an older guy.

SwampeastMike

Mileage in our cars is of less consequence than age and maintenance.

If that "older guy" just let the car sit for a decade or so such is the WORST thing he could do to the classic he once loved!

dmcb

He never drove it much but I think it only sat for about 3 years.
I wouldn't have got it if he drove it.

DUB

Honestly..I would climb under the car and remove the four half shaft bolts and french locks if they are still installed and then see if I can turn the spindle. Then I would do the other side.

If your have disconnected the half shafts from the spindles and they do not turn that I doubt it has to do with your rear differential. BUT...if you can turn each wheel...and not be able to turn the driveshaft. Then I would highly suspect a broken ring gear.

The only reason I am writing this method first is that trying to ****** off a rotor sometime can be a pain in the backside and I would rather confirm that I have a problem there. BUT also keep in mind that removing the four bolts on each side is not going to be a picnic either. You will need to get the trailing arm up so the half shaft is about level so your can get to the top two bolts a due to the half shaft can not spin.

I would do it this way because if I snatched on the rotors so much to get them to come off that I tweaked the spindle...NOW I have to take it apart and service it....which is why what I wrote above 'kinda' may help this not happening if the spindles turn when you get the half shafts removed.

Your time...your choice in what you want to do.

DUB

dmcb

Thanks Dub.
I personally know the previous owner. When he says he drove it in with no problems but when he tried to start it again the carb flooded the cylinders and he never drove it again I believe him.
The odds are pretty slim anything could happen to the rear dif just sitting there.
Is there any chance I can get some WD40 in there and attempt to free it without removing the rotor?
I am going to try to get it moving in his driveway. He says I can leave it as long as necessary.
Doug

DUB

Spraying WD-40 I feel would be a waste of time and product. Simply because you can not get your hands on the suspected frozen parts and get them to move so the WD-40 can do its job.

DUB

NewbVetteGuy

Ha! Welcome to my terrible, terrible club! -EXACTLY what my car with frozen up (rusted) parking brake does. Drilling out and then separating the rotor from the hub was just too much for me.

-Stainless parking brake set is on sale at Ecklers right now and should get here Friday- then I'm dropping the car off to make this someone else's problem. Just more than I could / was willing to handle.


Adam

dmcb

First I would like to thank you all for your response.
I believe Dub was correct In the rear end thoughts. I went back and removed the wheel. Using a long screw driver with the lug nuts back on the hub, I was able to turn the hub about 1 inch. Each time I got to the end I got heavy metal to metal clunk. But it moved freely back and forth. To me this eliminated the brake being froze. Something I think Dub saw and I should have seen.
At that point I felt with all the known problems this was beyond my abilities and decided to cut my losses.
I offered the guy $500 to return my money and cancel the deal.
He took it.
I think it was $500 well spent.
Aside from the money this is what bothers me.
I have a bulldozer. Just for my own use and have never charged anyone for any work. He had 2 lots that were a jungle. I spent 2 days clearing them. Never charged him anything. He was in the neighborhood and I did know him a bit.
When he sold the car he said get the carb fixed and you can drive it away.
Well of course that didn't happen and if it is the rear end it didn't happen sitting there.
He said it sat 2 years. I found out it was 5.
He said he bought it new. He didn't look at the title which shows it was 2 years old and 9400 miles on it when he bought.
A stranger wouldn't have got me so easily but I tend to trust those I know until it proves I can't
In this case it wasn't a good idea. I am good at body work and paint. This car needed it bad and I really wanted to make it like new.
I was comfortable with what he told me was wrong.
I know what I would have done if the situation was reversed but I just consider this guy can be bought for $500. I should have offered $100 as I think he is cheap.
Btw I paid $5,000 for the car which I think was pretty much top dollar for a car not running and needing paint and some body work.
Sorry for the rand and again thanks for the responses.
Doug

ShefmonC3

Doug,
Sorry this purchase went so wrong but thanks for keeping us all posted as a learning lesson both in repair and dealing with people.

DUB

It is sad that it went the way it did...but you are OK with it...that is all that matters.

It is also sad when some people just can not tell it like it is anymore.

I was hoping for you that it was NOT the differential..I honestly was...and I am shocked that what I mentioned came out to be what it was. What are the odds. I felt it was a 'stretch' when I wrote it because it has only happened to me once. But in my way of thinking...that is all it has to do is happen one time to be a possible cause.

DUB

dmcb

Thanks Dub. Things happen for a reason. Likely got off easy.
My big loss is there isn't much reason to hang out on this site. Looks like a great bunch ready to help when they can.
Doug

DUB

Well...if you get another one...we are here for you if needed.

DUB