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We need this to inspire others and help other improve their line/braking/etc at particular tracks, so please, ALL members, if you do a track day, PLEASE SUBMIT HERE. Have your PDR information/video available if possible.
If you have another road car that you wish to add feel free to post.
RULES:
- Time must be actually timed (PDR/Aftermarket datalogger/transponder/digital timer/etc), no guesses or estimates.
- Driver must submit their own time (exceptions will be made at my discretion)
- If it is untimed and only video, feel free to submit it as well. However a Lap Time will not be listed beside your name.
-Your Username -- XX:XX.XX -- C7/Z07/M7/Tire
-Track:
-Layout (PLEASE TRY TO BE AS SPECIFIC AS POSSIBLE.):
-Transmission Type:
-Driving Mode/Settings:
-Aero Package/Option Package/Setup:
-Tires:
-Conditions/Temp:
-Best Time of the day/Session achieved:
-Modifications, if any:
-Notes (issues experienced, failures, overheat, passenger, anything pertinent that you feel affected your time, etc):
Youtube Vid link if available
Pics if you choose to add
Example:
ElCid79 -- 0:59.63 -- C7/Z07/M7/CECDW
-Track: Charlotte Motor Speedway Infield Road Course
-Layout: Standard
-Transmission Type: M7
-Driving Mode/Settings: Track/Sport 1
-Aero Package/Option Package/Setup: Stage 3, Street Alignment
-Tires: Continental Extreme Contact DW
-Conditions/Temp: Upper 90's... High of the day 97*
-Overheat warning/failure if any:
-Best Time of the day/Session achieved: 0.59.63
-Modifications, if any: None
-Notes (issues experienced, failures, overheat, passenger, anything pertinent that you feel affected your time, etc):
What you will find here is a time at a given track, with a brief description of the car showing the transmission type/RPO and aero stage type/Tire type/Ambient Temperature. After that there is a link that says "details". Clicking this will automatically take you to where the person originally posted their data/video, or what ever other information is pertinent. Information such as alignment, setup, overall performance of the car, passengers, track experience there, etc.
Attention to PDR Timer Anomaly
The PDR timing has been revealed to have a flaw, in that it randomly jumps back 2 seconds. PLEASE watch your fast lap PDR video and count each second on the timer view. We are finding videos that the timer jumps backward and the data reflects the flawed time as well. All videos below found with timing issues will have an indication of "PDR" in bold at the beginning. That means the lap time appears to be 2 seconds slower than indicated
Legend:
** -- Means car received cooling system attention as part of track day prep, see details
**** -- Means car received aftermarket cooling system upgrades
The CH-47960-10 tool that mounts to the rear upright to allow an angle gauge to determine angle of upright, in relation to the vehicle surface.
This is an actual tool used, as specified by GM that dealerships should have. One part of the tool mounts to the upright bracket, the other sits on the tire surface (lift ramp).
You could likely use a simple angle gauge on the above linked bracket, and then measure the angle of the surface the car is on. The difference would be your caster angle.
The C7 has adjustable rear caster. What does rear caster do?
In easiest lingo, I'll simply quote one of the best books I own, "How to make your car handle".
To understand the issue with improper caster in the rear, you must understand how a rear toe change impacts the car itself.
"Cars with independent rear suspension also have a toe setting at the rear. Because the driving forces tend to cause toe-in, the rear wheels are usually set at zero toe. The effect of toe-in, or toe-out on the rear is much like the front, toe out causing instability and oversteer. You should set the rear toe at the car manufacturers specs and do final adjustments at the track. Usually zero or a slight toe in will be the final setting, with high powered cars having the greatest need for a toe in setting."
With the addition of rear caster adjustment to the C7, the main reason was to eliminate dynamic bump steer if the cars suspension settings were altered (i.e. most track capable Corvette ever). Bump steer being when the suspension compresses or unloads, the toe angle changes with it, creating an inadvertent steering or deviation of the tires.
I suspect with the C7, the rear caster is set specifically upon assembly, then the car is aligned to a factory spec. Caster won't likely vary much (until bushing and joint wear set in), but if you immediately make large changes to camber in the rear for track use, this will likely not be the case.
To avoid changes in intended handling characteristics at, or approaching the limit, be sure to verify your rear caster setting, as this is a traditionally non-typical adjustment for a mass production vehicle. Most alignment shops will not be aware of its existence.
Understanding Heat/Cooling and design challenges
This is a recently released video on a channel I follow. I think it's content would be positive for some people in this community or for general knowledge. It would create a better understanding of what is faced creating a car of this caliber, giving it a warranty, then selling it to the masses. Enjoy.
Coolant Preparations and Summary: READ BEFORE you track your Z06
It should be noted that running the car with the highest octane fuel available, non leaded of course, is the best course of action to prevent knock induced timing retard, and subsequent rising temperatures. Also, proper bleeding of the cooling system is also essential.
Using the A8:
Suggested Cooling System Modifications THAT WORK
None with conclusive/proven results. Removing strips, ducts and altering vents, may have an obvious impact how and where air goes, but it is very likely to have a negative impact on aerodynamic functions, and potentially have passively negative results in the effectiveness of the systems designed around those ducts, strips and vents. If it makes you feel good, so be it, but nothing has been proven effective with good solid before and after data. Proceed to disassemble your Z06, with the intent of improving it, at your own risk
It is a given that some modifications to increase cooling system effectiveness, such as a larger/higher capacity radiator, will have some degree of improvement. How much of a true resulting improvement remains to be seen, until more people install them and can truly vouch for the obvious change in performance. Preliminary review of some upgraded radiators suggest that the manufacturer claims are somewhat greater than the true customer experience. With these cars, air is very directed through the core, and extracted out the hood. While larger capacity radiators, and use of more aluminum can have some impact, you are still dictated by surface area and available volume/temp of the air moving across the core.
Understand PTM Modes and When to Use Them Alex Macdonald, lead Corvette development engineer and expert in chassis controls, describes below how they are designed and how he utilizes them
Glossary:
TCS - Traction Control System
ESC - Electronic Stability Control
PTM - Performance Traction Management
MR - Magnetic Ride
ELSD - Electronic Limited Slip Differential
ABS - Anti Lock Braking System
Mode uses: WET: This mode is intended for any driver who is on a wet track. The track should be wet enough to be glossy, not just damp. A damp or drying track will require the driver to decide between WET and DRY modes to get the best performance. Standing water is not recommended as hydroplaning is possible and no TCS system can accurately control a tire that is hydroplaning.
The slip targets are very low, lower than in standard TCS. The MR is in tour mode to maximize mechanical grip since the lower cornering forces don’t require the extra control offered in Sport or Track. ESC is on and uses the normal calibration, not the competitive calibration.
DRY: This mode is for a novice driver on any track or an experienced driver learning a brand new track. I also use it to warm up the tires or run the mold release off of new tires, especially if it’s cold out.
Slip targets here are very similar to normal TCS but will feel very different due to the entry prediction. MR is in Sport to compliment the usage we expect in this mode. ESC is on but uses the competitive calibration.
SPORT 1: This mode is for any driver who is ready to run very competitive lap times while still having stability control on in the background. I use this mode whenever I have a passenger, possible distractions such as data collection, or as I am continuing to become more familiar with a new track.
Slip targets are higher here than in normal TCS. MR is in track mode and ESC is on using the competitive calibration.
SPORT 2: This mode uses the exact same traction control settings as SPORT 1 but turns off ESC completely. This mode is designed as a way to turn off ESC while maintaining a fairly stable TCS calibration. I use it very often. Basically any time where tenths of a second are not critical to my testing or when the tires are getting too hot or wearing out. After 10 to 15 consecutive laps it is likely that your fastest times will be achieved in SPORT 2 rather than RACE.
Slip targets here are the same as SPORT 1. MR is still in track mode and ESC is turned OFF.
RACE: This one is pretty self-explanatory, it’s as fast as we know how to make the car go. This mode is for a well prepared car on relatively new tires with an advanced driver that is completely familiar with the track. The track should be somewhat warm and the tires should be up to temperature.
Slip targets are 100% optimized for forward acceleration, any small variances in the track or tires can result in momentary overslip that will have to be managed by the driver.
A few notes about RACE mode: I approach this mode as a tool to go faster meaning that I think specifically about it when I go to WOT and I try to change or optimize my throttle application point and steering to help the computer do its job. It can do the job better than me but only if I give it good information. A specific example is how I unwind the steering wheel mid corner and as the corner opens up. When learning to drive on track it is good practice to automatically unwind the steering wheel as you apply throttle regardless of the vehicle response (a string tied from throttle toe to steering wheel is the analogy used by some instructors). The problem in RACE PTM is that by doing that you are telling the car you are ready to go straight. It will add power and drive you to a wider line. The best results are found by holding the wheel as steady as you can and pointing the car to corner exit only when it’s time. Obviously you have to be ready to correct for overslip but as you gain trust you will find this is required less often than it feels at first. It is very useful to practice using PTM in the lower modes where you can focus on letting the car go where you point it and not correcting your steering too early.
We find that the calibration settings that achieve the fastest lap times often result in expert drivers feeling like they are being held back slightly on corner exit. Most of the time that extra little bit of slip that an expert driver wants is over the traction peak of the tire and may feel good but is wasting forward acceleration. The restrictive feeling is not there as a safety net, rather, it’s as close as we can operate to the peak capability of the tire in a robust way.
Other notes: The eLSD “PTM mode” is only a slight alteration of its normal track mode. This alteration is required since it is likely to see engine torque values that would not occur without PTM. However, the philosophy of what it’s trying to do and how it’s controlling vehicle dynamics does not change between PTM and TCS/ESC OFF mode.
As for the nannies, that term is a big gray area. I would personally call TCS, PTM, ESC and active rev match nannies but would not call the eLSD or MR dampers nannies. ABS is very gray. ABS, TCS, PTM, ESC and active rev match are trying to do a better job of something you normally do as a driver, steering, throttle, brake or shifting. However, no driver ever controls a differential directly or a shock absorber directly. They are part of the base chassis tuning and can be thought of as a calibration component like a spring or anti roll bar.
ABS is more of a gray area but it is not allowed to be shut off because the capability of the vehicle is so limited without it. You may need 200 bar of brake pressure to get max decel from a wheel that’s on the outside of a corner but the inside wheel would be totally locked at 50 bar. Unless you want a lot of flat spotted tires you need ABS in that situation. Also, somewhat like eLSD and MR, individual wheel brake pressure is something even the best driver can’t physically control without the electronics.
That’s a long way of saying you can shut off TCS, PTM, ESC and active rev match but you can’t shut off MR, eLSD or ABS.
Z51 Specific Information
Transmission cooler using C7 Z06 parts:
------------------------------------------------------------------------------- AliZ51 asked:
Is it possible to install the C7 Z06 A8 secondary transmission cooler on a 2015 C7 Z51 A8? If yes, what would it take to get this done? If no, what can be done to bring extra cooling capacity to The Z51 A8 transmission?
Many 2015 C7 Z51 owners are dealing with transmission overheating issues on the track even in low ambient temperatures. The dealers are not able to help or address this issue. We know now that the 2016 Z51 will come with a secondary transmission cooler but what about us (2015 Z51 A8 owners). We do need a retrofit kit and instructions for the dealers for us who purchased the 2015 Z51 package in order to run on the track or spirited canyons drives.
Tadge answered:
One really good thing about the "Ask Tadge" section of the forum is that it focuses attention on issues where we can help customers. This question is a good example. The short answer is yes, the 2016 A8 cooling content can be retrofit on both the 2014 (A6) and '15 cars. You can use most of the production parts for 2016 with a few minor tweaks. Through our Performance Parts organization, we are putting together a kit with the needed material and instructions. It is not a super easy installation, but will be doable by the serious enthusiast. It should be available by the end of this year.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Why do all the PDR videos published to date have a distinct green cast and overall washed-out look? The camera hardware/firmware must allow for better calibration of color balance and white balance. How about a firmware update to fix the problem?
Tadge answered:
This is a perfect example of continuous improvement and backwards compatibility that I was asked about a couple weeks ago. GM engineering and our partner Cosworth have been working hard to improve the PDR and the user experience. One area of investigation has been the image quality. Coincidentally, a software change was just released for Bowling Green production at the end of March and we will be making it available to customers who already have their cars in the next few weeks. The software includes several changes including improvements in color balance and sharpness of the image on the video.
His explanation from another thread, due to people inquiring is quoted below
Here's the TDLR (too long didn't read version):
Buy an AIM solo unit and run it in conjunction with a Smarty Cam.
Dump the data in Race Render, using one of the standard templates
This will get you potentially better data than I have, but at the expense of higher upfront cost.
Now here's the story behind my setup:
First you have to understand that my videos are a true labor of love. I've refined my videos & data logging over the last year with each event I participated in. I started very simple and every now and then I use my commute to work to experiment with camera angles, mic positions, file syncing, and data overlay (no laps of course, that's what subdivision are for ). My car looks very silly when I do this but I feel the finished product is worth it. Now on to the fun stuff…
What I'm using:
Android App: Torque App
Samsung S4 w/ 64GB microSD card
Front Camera: DriftHD w/ external mic mounted above license plate -->Link to Drift Website
In-car Camera: Kodak v570 (really old discontinued point & shoot)
OBDii Bluetooth reader: OBDLink MX Bluetooth Scan Tool --> Link to OBDii Scan Tools website
Qstarz BT-Q818XT 10Hz 66 Channel Bluetooth GPS Receiver --> Link to Amazon Link to Amazon
Overly Software: RaceRender 3 --> Link to RaceRender Website
X-factor: Patience and Testing, This is KEY
In the beginning, I used my phone’s internal GPS but it has as a resolution of about 1Hz (1 update/second). For laptimes I wanted a greater resolution so I purchased the 10Hz unit (10 updaes/second ala 0.1s level of accuracy) listed above. Originally I was using the ELM27 Bluetooth OBDii reader which worked fine but it had a limited refresh speed and the more channels of data I added the worse it performed. With the MX Bluetooth Scanner I’m running about 17 channels of data (OBDii & GPS speed, rpm, various temp sensors, knock retard, etc.) at a refresh rate of about 2.5Hz (2.5 updates/ second, ala 0.4s level of accuracy). If I ran a smaller number of channels I could run at almost 10Hz and match my GPS unit but that level of accuracy isn't really important to me right now. The screen shot of my video below displays most of the channels but there are a handful that I use for analysis and video syncing.
Final Thoughts:
I’m 30 and I’ve had my car for almost 3 years so I use the videos of my outings as kind of a digital scrap book and training materials. I think of them as a cross between an old school VHS video album and a poor man’s PDR. Know that my cameras are 3 generations behind the new stuff but they work great and I had them around. If I were to recreate my system today the only change I would make is to use 2 drift cameras because I would be able to start them simultaneously through 1 remote. Other than that my setup has been rock solid with no hardware/functionality issues.
If you made it this far through my ramblings I commend you. Don't hesitate to ask any questions about my setup or anything I've experience with my car. Good or bad. I picked my car up from the museum with 3 miles on it in Dec 2012 with a plan to drive it alot. I'm currently at 56K miles and so far I've tried Auto-X, Drag Racing, Skid-Pads, long Mountain Trips (900+ miles in 2 days), and of course track days. I'm a big believer in sharing good information and that is why I wrote this long thesis. Going to a racing school will probably be the best return on investment in becoming a better driver. The second is to simply increase your seat time and pay attention every opportunity you have to learn something no matter how insignificant. Lastly, manual Grand Sports are amazing cars and I would wager that they are probably more capable than 85% of the street cars that show up at track days. In the lower run groups where most drives are on street tires I tend to keep up with everything but Z06/ZR1's, GT3, Vipers level cars. Just my 0.02 cent
Also, does anyone find the third post relevant or would you like for me to remove it entirely, to focus the thread a bit more. Perhaps a basic tracking thread would be in order.
Also, does anyone find the third post relevant or would you like for me to remove it entirely, to focus the thread a bit more. Perhaps a basic tracking thread would be in order.
I vote for leaving post #3 in place. I think it may help some people out and it is handy to have it all in one spot.
Track: Watkins Glen
Layout: Full
Transmission Type: M7
Driving Mode/Settings: Track/Sport 2
Aero Package/Option Package/Setup: Stage 2, Track alignment
Tires: MPSS
Conditions/Temp: 93°
Overheat warning/failure if any: 1 Overheat warning but not on fast lap
Best Time of the day/Session achieved: 2:12:56 / 2nd session Lap 3
Notes: Brake failure and overheat on previous sessions kept me a little hesitant on this one. Brakes faded after hot lap.
This will be a submission for a new Track and a C6 ZR1. The new track is the Dominion Raceway Road Course in VA. This is a 2 mi. road course just off 95 near Fredericksburg. This was a NASA weekend and the first races they held at the track. So, this was obviously my first time at the track and first time on a new wheel and tire combo.
Vehicle - 2009 C6 ZR1
Track - Dominion Raceway
Layout - 2.0 mi (only current layout)
Transmission Type - M6
Driving Mode/Settings - Everything Off and shocks in sport setting
Aero Package/Option Package/Setup - Stock with PDE full width rear spoiler
Tires - 305/325 Conti race scrubs on CCW C14 18" Wheels
Conditions/Temp - Mid 80s in the early morning to +100 in the afternoon. Very Humid. Best lap mid 90s
Overheat warning/failure if any - None, highest coolant temp observed 245 deg
Best Time of the day/Session achieved - 1:31.74, 2nd Session Sunday
Modifications- Drivers Sparco race seat, harness bar, and 5 pt harness
Notes- Run in HPDE 4 group. Was kind of surprised this was my fastest lap as I had faster sector times on other laps, just more traffic. Front straight speed was low as I was usually over 140mph. I think I backed off too early coming up on the slower traffic. I see lots of room for improvement as I get more familiar with the track and get more confident in the new found grip of my new tire setup.
-Track Sonoma (aka Infineon)
-Layout (PLEASE TRY TO BE AS SPECIFIC AS POSSIBLE, SOME TRACKS HAVE 4 OR MORE LAYOUTS) standard full auto CW layout without bypass
-Transmission Type M7
-Driving Mode/Settings no TC no AH in Track mode
-Aero Package/Option Package/Setup Z07 set at max downforce
-Tires Toyo R888
-Conditions/Temp 63* dry
-Overheat warning/failure if any none
-Best Time of the day/Session achieved 1:53.08
-Modifications, if any C&R racing radiator
GMPP secondary radiator
80/20 water mix
Power steering GM cooling scoop
18" CCW wheels
Girodisc iron rotors with Raybestos ST43 pads
Toyo R888 tires
-Notes (issues experienced, failures, passenger, anything pertinent that you feel affected your time, etc) +50lb weight in car Toyo's scrubs heat-cycled and on the wear bars
Last edited by SBC_and_a_stick; 08-29-2016 at 06:54 PM.
(Can you upload a video I would like to see this track.)
I have a video but it's not nice to look at. The camera shakes so much you can't see a damn thing and the dash takes up half the viewing area. My GoPro 4 is toast and the phone can't stabilize.
I have a video but it's not nice to look at. The camera shakes so much you can't see a damn thing and the dash takes up half the viewing area. My GoPro 4 is toast and the phone can't stabilize.
-Track - M1 Concourse
-Layout - Full
-Transmission Type - M7
-Driving Mode/Settings - Track/PTM S1
-Aero Package/Option Package/Setup - Stage 3 Z07
-Tires - MPSC
-Conditions/Temp - 77F 82% humidity
-Overheat warning/failure if any - none
-Best Time of the day/Session achieved - 1:17.16
-Modifications, if any, Katech Stage 3/TIKT
-Notes (issues experienced, failures, passenger, anything pertinent that you feel affected your time, etc) - First session of the day. Tire pressures too high
Track ==================== Watkins Glen
Layout (if more than 1) ========= Full
Transmission Type ============ C6 GS, A6
Driving Mode/Settings ========== Comp mode
Aero Package/Option Package/Setup = Katech ZR-1 splitter, ss', spoiler
Tires ==================== R888s
Conditions/Temp ============= 77 degrees (7/19/16)
Modifications, if any =========== DRM coilovers, JOC sways, Van Steel delrin bushings, Wilwood W6As with H pads front, B pads rear, Callaway CAI
Notes ==================== 2:09.65. Bobble in T6 from braking too late after pass/waive to friend in S2000 cost 1/4 sec but other than that, it's pretty much all I got.
========================= Nothing like a a few open laps to get into a rhythm. Last 3 laps, all with no traffic: each progressively better than the prior one.
========================= VBox screen print to follow.
Don't mind the gearshift indicator, it seems to be reading one gear low, mostly 3rd with a little 2nd and 4th on the straight.
Grattan
Clockwise
M6
All off
C6Z
R888
Sunny 75 Awesome
1:27.91
ERL/LG 427 560 rwhp, Stoptech front and rear, Penske coil overs, LG sway bars, ARE Stage 3 dry sump, twin disc carbon clutch
-Notes: Car still faster than me, felt great. Personal best by about .5 sec. chasing Brad in his ZR1
07-30-2016, 12:58 AM
Official C7 Z06 Road Course Lap Times...
