Safe places to drill in C5 trunk
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Louisiana
Safe places to drill in C5 trunk
Hey folks
Gonna be starting my audio install work soon. I was wondering if folks knew where all the safe places to drill are in the trunk? I have an 02 Vert, if that matters.
I have two things to secure, the sub box in the central storage area (thanks Subthump!) and a small custom amp enclosure. The amp enclosure will mount on the floor on the right side of the center storage area. It's a JL 500/5, so it's pretty long. Part of it will cover the right-side storage panel if that give you an idea of where I'm mounting it. I can post pics of where it is going if that will help.
Anyways, I was just wondering if there were some "no no" drill areas in the trunk.
Thanks!
-Smokey
Gonna be starting my audio install work soon. I was wondering if folks knew where all the safe places to drill are in the trunk? I have an 02 Vert, if that matters.
I have two things to secure, the sub box in the central storage area (thanks Subthump!) and a small custom amp enclosure. The amp enclosure will mount on the floor on the right side of the center storage area. It's a JL 500/5, so it's pretty long. Part of it will cover the right-side storage panel if that give you an idea of where I'm mounting it. I can post pics of where it is going if that will help.
Anyways, I was just wondering if there were some "no no" drill areas in the trunk.
Thanks!
-Smokey
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,682
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From: Atlanta GA
The main no drill zones in the C5 is anywhere on the ledge behind the drivers and passengers seats, the gas tanks are located there.
I usually tap a ground right in the center of the ledge, but it can't be too long because there is a gas hose that connects the two tanks. Insead of drilling, consider cutting some mdf strips and using silicone caulk (don't use liquid nails) to "glue" the strips to the floor, then screw into those. The advantage is that it is fully removable and you don't need to drill into the car.
I usually tap a ground right in the center of the ledge, but it can't be too long because there is a gas hose that connects the two tanks. Insead of drilling, consider cutting some mdf strips and using silicone caulk (don't use liquid nails) to "glue" the strips to the floor, then screw into those. The advantage is that it is fully removable and you don't need to drill into the car.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 672
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From: Louisiana
Originally Posted by leolufse
The main no drill zones in the C5 is anywhere on the ledge behind the drivers and passengers seats, the gas tanks are located there.
I usually tap a ground right in the center of the ledge, but it can't be too long because there is a gas hose that connects the two tanks. Insead of drilling, consider cutting some mdf strips and using silicone caulk (don't use liquid nails) to "glue" the strips to the floor, then screw into those. The advantage is that it is fully removable and you don't need to drill into the car.
I usually tap a ground right in the center of the ledge, but it can't be too long because there is a gas hose that connects the two tanks. Insead of drilling, consider cutting some mdf strips and using silicone caulk (don't use liquid nails) to "glue" the strips to the floor, then screw into those. The advantage is that it is fully removable and you don't need to drill into the car.
What about for the subwoofer box in the central storage area? Is it ok to drill straight down from the bottom of the well to mount the box? I assume it must be since so many folks mount a sub box there. And I can't really see anything in that area when I look under the car. I just want to make sure there isn't something "sandwiched" away that I can't see from just looking under the car.
Thanks!
-Smokey
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,682
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From: Atlanta GA
If you drill into the center well, you will be drilling into the great outdoors. Water could possibly enter by being splashed up from the rear tires.
The silicone idea is much stronger than you might expect. When I say its easily removable, I mean you'll need a pry bar to pull up on the strips as the silicone kinda "breaks" and releases. Do a test with a couple of pieces of mdf and decide for yourself. Use the clear silicone caulk that you would use for shower door installation.
The silicone idea is much stronger than you might expect. When I say its easily removable, I mean you'll need a pry bar to pull up on the strips as the silicone kinda "breaks" and releases. Do a test with a couple of pieces of mdf and decide for yourself. Use the clear silicone caulk that you would use for shower door installation.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,682
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta GA
Originally Posted by SmokeyTirez
Ok I'll give it a shot.
I assume you cut back the carpeting and silicone caulk the mdf directly to the metal, right?
Thanks!
-Smokey
I assume you cut back the carpeting and silicone caulk the mdf directly to the metal, right?
Thanks!
-Smokey
Its actually all fiberglass under the carpet in the trunk area.
