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Help needed with Amp and Subwoofer Selection

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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 01:58 PM
  #1  
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Default Help needed with Amp and Subwoofer Selection

Ok guys and Gals(Just in case)

Does anybody know the cubic feet and mounting Depth requirements for the following subwoofers! I have searched everywhere on the net and could not find the specs for them! I know there is sombody here in this forum using a 10" (Kenwood Excelon KFC-XW1002DVC) in a sub thumb box(not sure which one though), but I am really interested in the 12" (Kenwood Excelon KFC-XW1202DVC).

Aslo, of the two subs, the amplifier that intrest me the most (Kenwood Excelon KAC-X520 Amp) is being held under the table for half price($139.00) with no tax included, but needs to be purchased within 72 hours becuase a store associates tagged it with the wrong price (Store Policy) or the price goes back to the original ($249). I like it alot becuase I can control it from my head unit with variable frequency adjustments with my Kenwood Head Unit (KDC0X679)

So do I need to run the amp bridged with 1 sub? I am not sure what it means when the specs reflect the following on the bottom of the box

Note: Confusion with the Voltage? WTF does that mean?

Bridged Power Output at 12V (1kHz, 0.5% THD): 360 Watts x 1
Bridged Power Output at 14.4V (1kHz, 0.5% THD): 500 Watts x 1

I have no idea if the above set up (500 watts x 1 ) will work with either of the two subwoofers mentioned above. This is were I need help and enlightenment. or should I just save up for (KAC-X810D).

So please help me with your expertise!

Snoopdan..........Where are you when I need you the most?
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 03:17 PM
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Bridged Power Output at 12V (1kHz, 0.5% THD): 360 Watts x 1
Bridged Power Output at 14.4V (1kHz, 0.5% THD): 500 Watts x 1
Most companies will give you the power ratings at different voltages just to compare fairly. In general when you vehicle is running your alternator will be putting out close to 14.4 volts. If you are just running your system from the battery (car not running), your amp will be getting around 12 volts. If you run the battery down, most amps will shut down at around 11.5 or less volts.

Anyway, wattage is volts*amps. More volts at the same amperage = more watts.

I don't know the specifics of this equipment, but I'm assuming a 2 channel amp. When you bridge it, you are combining the left and right channels together to double your power output. When you bridge an amp, the amp "sees" 1/2 of the impedance of the load. The load in this case is the subwoofer. Generally, most amps are stable to 2 ohms stereo and 4 ohms mono. So if you are going to bridge your amp to drive a single sub, you need to have an impedance of 4 ohms. If you try to run a lower impedance, you will overload or overheat your amp. At the very best it will go into protection mode and stop playing, at the worst, you'll have a pretty expensive paper weight.
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by leolufse
Most companies will give you the power ratings at different voltages just to compare fairly. In general when you vehicle is running your alternator will be putting out close to 14.4 volts. If you are just running your system from the battery (car not running), your amp will be getting around 12 volts. If you run the battery down, most amps will shut down at around 11.5 or less volts.

Anyway, wattage is volts*amps. More volts at the same amperage = more watts.

I don't know the specifics of this equipment, but I'm assuming a 2 channel amp. When you bridge it, you are combining the left and right channels together to double your power output. When you bridge an amp, the amp "sees" 1/2 of the impedance of the load. The load in this case is the subwoofer. Generally, most amps are stable to 2 ohms stereo and 4 ohms mono. So if you are going to bridge your amp to drive a single sub, you need to have an impedance of 4 ohms. If you try to run a lower impedance, you will overload or overheat your amp. At the very best it will go into protection mode and stop playing, at the worst, you'll have a pretty expensive paper weight.

Leo thanks for the clarification! I undestand now! In reference to these subs I assume it is ok to run them bridged, since they state they are 2 ohm stable.

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=14951

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=14950


Thanks in advance leo!
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 04:11 PM
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yup. if you plan to run just a single sub and bridge your amp, you will want to get one of those. they are 2ohm dvc. you wire the sub in series to produce a 4 ohm impedance for your amp.
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 08:00 PM
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I'm running the 10".......I love it... The subthump stealth box is perfect for this sub. I'm feeding it around 300w rms & 1000w peak. Sounds great.
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Old Apr 2, 2005 | 02:51 AM
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hey, ya didnt PM me!

Leo knows what he's talkn about though. Ive been busy making my website and packing up some stuff to ship out. It sucks being my own shipping department.


A single sub is a great place to start, and if you feel that you might want to do something more later, just make sure the amp you choose has a wide variety of either bridgeable output modes and or variable ohm load stability and wiring flexiblity. For example, when I buy an amplifier for an application, I always make sure I get something slightly bigger than what I really need, to allow for future upgrade options. You can always turn gains down....its just my habit of planning ahead for things that I have no control over.......doesnt work all the time.


But really, if ya want specific questions from me, PM me...i'll notice that much faster.


snoopdan
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Old Apr 2, 2005 | 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by pyro5o
I'm running the 10".......I love it... The subthump stealth box is perfect for this sub. I'm feeding it around 300w rms & 1000w peak. Sounds great.

Pyro!

Why not the twelve rather than the 10! I want the twelve but I need to find out the Specs! Do you have any available resources that know the air requirement for the 12!

Thanks!
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