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Apparently it'll allow you to power an aftermarket deck throught the Class II data bus. I guess if your deck uses more than 12amps you'd have to use a relay. Any comments?
Don't waste your money on that gizmo, the C5 already has RAP, and it's pretty easy to tap into it.
Under the IP Fuse box you can use pin E10 or F10 (both orange) on connector C2, those wires supply power to the bass amps in the doors. Just attach one of these to the wire under the fuse box and have it pull in the magnet end of an automotive relay. Connect +12V to the switch end of the relay (either directly off the battery, or use the + post of the IP fuse box like I did) and you can have whatever you want controlled by the stock RAP circuit whenever the radio is on.
I currently have that setup powering my Neo Jukebox and a Bazooka Bass Tube. Hopefully I'll have time to install my 4x25w amp this week, and then change it slightly. I'll be powering the amp and tube directly from the battery, and using my RAP controlled relay to power the Neo and provide the remote-turn-on power to the amp and tube.
Don't waste your money on that gizmo, the C5 already has RAP, and it's pretty easy to tap into it.
Under the IP Fuse box you can use pin E10 or F10 (both orange) on connector C2, those wires supply power to the bass amps in the doors. Just attach one of these to the wire under the fuse box and have it pull in the magnet end of an automotive relay. Connect +12V to the switch end of the relay (either directly off the battery, or use the + post of the IP fuse box like I did) and you can have whatever you want controlled by the stock RAP circuit whenever the radio is on.
I currently have that setup powering my Neo Jukebox and a Bazooka Bass Tube. Hopefully I'll have time to install my 4x25w amp this week, and then change it slightly. I'll be powering the amp and tube directly from the battery, and using my RAP controlled relay to power the Neo and provide the remote-turn-on power to the amp and tube.
Hi, I have read the radio FAQ, awesome info! I was curious about the specifics of pulling the signal from the Bose speakers RAP wire mentioned here (and in the FAQ)...if you tap into E10/F10, would you need that additional relay if you are replacing the Bose speakers? It seems that a 20A fused circuit would be more than enough to provide an aftermarket H/U and a backup camera with this RAP - 12V power directly. The H/U uses fused constant power for operation so this RAP power would just be the signal to turn on...the camera may draw a little more but should still be a fairly small amount of current. The aftermarket AMP I selected gets the turn on signal from the RCA plug (which is cool).
What I was envisioning is simply tapping that line and running it to the 2 points of interest...am I missing something?
Also, What is the easiest way to ID the E10/F10 wire on the underside of the Fuse Box?
Thank you!
Last edited by topdown01; Dec 22, 2015 at 08:54 AM.
Hi, I have read the radio FAQ, awesome info! I was curious about the specifics of pulling the signal from the Bose speakers RAP wire mentioned here (and in the FAQ)...if you tap into E10/F10, would you need that additional relay if you are replacing the Bose speakers? It seems that a 20A fused circuit would be more than enough to provide an aftermarket H/U and a backup camera with this RAP - 12V power directly. The H/U uses fused constant power for operation so this RAP power would just be the signal to turn on...the camera may draw a little more but should still be a fairly small amount of current. The aftermarket AMP I selected gets the turn on signal from the RCA plug (which is cool).
What I was envisioning is simply tapping that line and running it to the 2 points of interest...am I missing something?
Also, What is the easiest way to ID the E10/F10 wire on the underside of the Fuse Box?
Thank you!
The E10 and F10 wires only have RAP power if your stock radio is still installed (RAP is generated by the radio).
If you remove oem HU you can get normal switched power in the footwell or get a GMRAP (if you can find one) or Accessory Valet to have a RAP trigger.
If you keep the oem HU and want to find E10/F10, the pins are labeled on the bottom of the fuse box just like a Battleship board. The stock RAP circuit should easily handle any triggers or relays, but I wouldn't try to power any new gear on it.
The E10 and F10 wires only have RAP power if your stock radio is still installed (RAP is generated by the radio).
If you remove oem HU you can get normal switched power in the footwell or get a GMRAP (if you can find one) or Accessory Valet to have a RAP trigger.
If you keep the oem HU and want to find E10/F10, the pins are labeled on the bottom of the fuse box just like a Battleship board. The stock RAP circuit should easily handle any triggers or relays, but I wouldn't try to power any new gear on it.
Ok, thank you, looks I'll need to order the device mentioned. I am replacing the H/U.
The E10 and F10 wires only have RAP power if your stock radio is still installed (RAP is generated by the radio).
If you remove oem HU you can get normal switched power in the footwell or get a GMRAP (if you can find one) or Accessory Valet to have a RAP trigger.
If you keep the oem HU and want to find E10/F10, the pins are labeled on the bottom of the fuse box just like a Battleship board. The stock RAP circuit should easily handle any triggers or relays, but I wouldn't try to power any new gear on it.
Where would one look for a GMRAP? I've done a little searching and have come up with nothing. I asked about keeping the RAP feature a while back when I first installed a Kenwood in my C5. Using the PAC adapter the radio works great but I don't have the RAP anymore however the door chimes still work. Am I missing something or do I still need something to make the radio stay on when I shut the ignition, which is my only complaint.
Most online stores are out of the GMRAP. eBay has a few, but for the price I'd just get an Accessory Valet from TopDownTech.com
Is the GMRAP easier to install than the Accessory Valet? If I could get it considerably cheaper is it worth buying? I might have access to one at less than half the price.
The GMRAP works great, if you can get one for cheap go for it.
They both connect the same.
AV has a few more programmable features that are neat, but both do RAP the same.
As it turns out I can get a GMRAP for a good price compared to the Accessory Valet. Do you have a preference or reason why you would use one over another? Thanks for your response in advance.
As it turns out I can get a GMRAP for a good price compared to the Accessory Valet. Do you have a preference or reason why you would use one over another? Thanks for your response in advance.
They both work the same for RAP, if you can get one for cheap go for it