C5 - Moving AC controls
Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2004
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C5 - Moving AC controls
I have noticed that just about everyone that has put in a larger than 1.5 DIN headunit and cuts the bezel has moved the AC controls down to the ashtray and put some sort of filler between the middle.
I would like to move the AC to be right under my screen .. then use the ashtray area for switches and such.
Are there any drawbacks to this ..other than having to cut and move the other bar? Looking at the car, it appears that I would have to trim a support brace a little for the depth of the AC control (in the regular config, the control sits between the two support bars).
I am just wondering if I am missing something before I start cutting.
I would like to move the AC to be right under my screen .. then use the ashtray area for switches and such.
Are there any drawbacks to this ..other than having to cut and move the other bar? Looking at the car, it appears that I would have to trim a support brace a little for the depth of the AC control (in the regular config, the control sits between the two support bars).
I am just wondering if I am missing something before I start cutting.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,079
Likes: 1
From: Bradenton, FL
I intend to post a detailed "how to" when I get finished, but to answer your question; I did almost the same thing you're thinking of doing. I didn't like the idea of moving my HVAC controls all the way down into the ashtray area either and I didn't want to end up retexturing my whole console, so here's a few shots of what I did. I used the bezel from the AVIC-D1 as a template. As you can see, you should have plenty of room for switches.
They should be fairly self explanitory, but feel free to comment or question my motives...
They should be fairly self explanitory, but feel free to comment or question my motives...
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,079
Likes: 1
From: Bradenton, FL
I intend to post a detailed "how to" when I get finished, but to answer your question; I did almost the same thing you're thinking of doing. I didn't like the idea of moving my HVAC controls all the way down into the ashtray area either and I didn't want to end up retexturing my whole console, so here's a few shots of what I did. I used the bezel from the AVIC-D1 as a template. As you can see, you should have plenty of room for switches.
They should be fairly self explanitory, but feel free to comment or question my motives...
They should be fairly self explanitory, but feel free to comment or question my motives...
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,079
Likes: 1
From: Bradenton, FL
I intend to post a detailed "how to" when I get finished, but to answer your question; I did almost the same thing you're thinking of doing. I didn't like the idea of moving my HVAC controls all the way down into the ashtray area either and I didn't want to end up retexturing my whole console, so here's a few shots of what I did. I used the bezel from the AVIC-D1 as a template. As you can see, you should have plenty of room for switches.
They should be fairly self explanitory, but feel free to comment or question my motives...
They should be fairly self explanitory, but feel free to comment or question my motives...
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,079
Likes: 1
From: Bradenton, FL
Originally Posted by rhubarb74roadster
I have noticed that just about everyone that has put in a larger than 1.5 DIN headunit and cuts the bezel has moved the AC controls down to the ashtray and put some sort of filler between the middle.
I would like to move the AC to be right under my screen .. then use the ashtray area for switches and such.
Are there any drawbacks to this ..other than having to cut and move the other bar? Looking at the car, it appears that I would have to trim a support brace a little for the depth of the AC control (in the regular config, the control sits between the two support bars).
I am just wondering if I am missing something before I start cutting.
I would like to move the AC to be right under my screen .. then use the ashtray area for switches and such.
Are there any drawbacks to this ..other than having to cut and move the other bar? Looking at the car, it appears that I would have to trim a support brace a little for the depth of the AC control (in the regular config, the control sits between the two support bars).
I am just wondering if I am missing something before I start cutting.
They should be fairly self explanitory, but feel free to comment or question my motives...
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,079
Likes: 1
From: Bradenton, FL
Originally Posted by scott_fx
there is a how to in the c5 *** :-)
use the abs sludge method (not bondo) though, you'll get better results.
use the abs sludge method (not bondo) though, you'll get better results.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 5,572
Likes: 4
From: Los Angeles Ca
Originally Posted by LV_2_XLR8
I did use the ABS sludge method. The only bondo you see was used to hide some slight imperfections before painting.
hmm, i just noticed i should go and edit the g to a q. woops!
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From: Murfreesboro, TN. "I'm like a kid in a candy store everytime I see a Corvette!!"
Excellent job, judging by the pics... did you have to modify the ashtray door, or did it still operate just as it did factory?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 5,572
Likes: 4
From: Los Angeles Ca
Originally Posted by NCR Dave
Excellent job, judging by the pics... did you have to modify the ashtray door, or did it still operate just as it did factory?
the door isn't there anymore.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2004
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LV_2_XLR8,
Awesome work. I did not think of grabbing the entire piece (both bars) and moving it down. I was trying to move one bar at a time and it is just not lining up right.
Looks like I am ordering a new bezel and Xenarc case for take 2.
Awesome work. I did not think of grabbing the entire piece (both bars) and moving it down. I was trying to move one bar at a time and it is just not lining up right.
Looks like I am ordering a new bezel and Xenarc case for take 2.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 5,572
Likes: 4
From: Los Angeles Ca
Originally Posted by rhubarb74roadster
LV_2_XLR8,
Awesome work. I did not think of grabbing the entire piece (both bars) and moving it down. I was trying to move one bar at a time and it is just not lining up right.
Looks like I am ordering a new bezel and Xenarc case for take 2.
Awesome work. I did not think of grabbing the entire piece (both bars) and moving it down. I was trying to move one bar at a time and it is just not lining up right.
Looks like I am ordering a new bezel and Xenarc case for take 2.
how isn't it lining up correctly? is it not wide enough or to wide? i wouldnt order a new one just yet. take some pics and maybe we can help you through this.
Thread Starter
Pro
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I will take some pics when I get back from the turkey day stuffing (me, not the bird)
It is not looking too bad. I removed the top bar and tacked in the Xenarc bezel. Then filled in the sides with Plastic epoxy. Then glued the bar to the bottom of the bezel (covering the buttons). Then cut new notches in the sides of the trim and filled in the space with the epoxy.
The bar is a little high on one side, but I can sand that down. My biggest fear is that I will have a lot of hi and low spots and would need to use Bondo to fill them .. and that would crack.
Any ideas?
It is not looking too bad. I removed the top bar and tacked in the Xenarc bezel. Then filled in the sides with Plastic epoxy. Then glued the bar to the bottom of the bezel (covering the buttons). Then cut new notches in the sides of the trim and filled in the space with the epoxy.
The bar is a little high on one side, but I can sand that down. My biggest fear is that I will have a lot of hi and low spots and would need to use Bondo to fill them .. and that would crack.
Any ideas?
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,079
Likes: 1
From: Bradenton, FL
Originally Posted by rhubarb74roadster
My biggest fear is that I will have a lot of hi and low spots and would need to use Bondo to fill them .. and that would crack.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
We'll look forward to the photos. Glad you managed to salvage the radio surround.
Thread Starter
Pro
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LV_2_XLR8,
The ABS that you used .. was it the Oatey stuff in the can (in the plumbing section), the stuff in the plunger/sqeeze tube (over in the glue section with the epoxy), or the homemade ABS/MEK sludge?
When you put the ABS in, did you do it from the front .. with the back taped up or from the back?
Did you need the SEM clear just to protect your artwork at the bottom, or is it needed to match the factory texture?
Thanks
The ABS that you used .. was it the Oatey stuff in the can (in the plumbing section), the stuff in the plunger/sqeeze tube (over in the glue section with the epoxy), or the homemade ABS/MEK sludge?
When you put the ABS in, did you do it from the front .. with the back taped up or from the back?
Did you need the SEM clear just to protect your artwork at the bottom, or is it needed to match the factory texture?
Thanks
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,079
Likes: 1
From: Bradenton, FL
Originally Posted by rhubarb74roadster
LV_2_XLR8,
The ABS that you used .. was it the Oatey stuff in the can (in the plumbing section), the stuff in the plunger/sqeeze tube (over in the glue section with the epoxy), or the homemade ABS/MEK sludge?
When you put the ABS in, did you do it from the front .. with the back taped up or from the back?
Did you need the SEM clear just to protect your artwork at the bottom, or is it needed to match the factory texture?
Thanks
The ABS that you used .. was it the Oatey stuff in the can (in the plumbing section), the stuff in the plunger/sqeeze tube (over in the glue section with the epoxy), or the homemade ABS/MEK sludge?
When you put the ABS in, did you do it from the front .. with the back taped up or from the back?
Did you need the SEM clear just to protect your artwork at the bottom, or is it needed to match the factory texture?
Thanks
The clear coat is necessary to duplicate the factory gloss level, as the texture coating is completely flat with absolutely no sheen to it at all. I decided to apply it over the decals to seal them and also remove the gloss from them too, so they would match the factory finish better.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 5,572
Likes: 4
From: Los Angeles Ca
Originally Posted by rhubarb74roadster
Any update on the 'how to' guide? I got my new bezel and am ready to start cutting 
check the c5 faq, there is a how to there. instead of using 2part epoxy use the abs sludge... but everything else is the same
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I'm sort of following LV_2_XLR8's lead on this too while incorporating waymirec's idea for location of the boost and fuel pressure gauges I'm also using a Xenarc touch screen monitor for my Car PC system.
I'm also using a Xenarc touch screen monitor for my Car PC system.