gr8vet

Stopped by local audio shop ( getting ready to spend some bones) and was told they just did a job for another C5 and put mid bass subs in the doors along with some 4" 2 way speakers. The shop owner said it turned out to be a killer system. I know this is similar to factory but I never see anyone on the forum doing that? Good, bad?? Just curious.

Thanks!

tt

scott_fx

eatrice had this setup, fej has 7" drivers.... if you have the $$$ and the power then go for it! it'll make the system seamless and you wont even realize the sub is located in the trunk

fej

Is he talking TRUE subs? Or just midbass units? I honestly think that you would have to get pretty custom (IE enclosure built into door, or SERIOUS door skin reinforcement and deadening) to get a real "sub" to perform well in our doors.

If he is talking midbass drivers you can go 7" or 8" without much, if any, modification to the factory hole in the skin or the mounts. I would stay with a 7" if you can find one simply to try and keep the midrange driver on top of that midbass unit (using a stock type mount) from being overly blocked behind the factory door panel.

Have $$$ you can make anything work and work well, but retaining a "stock" type appearance limits your options a bit. If he wants to 'glass up some pods in your doors for 8's go for it!

DLS, Focal, JL all make nice 3 way systems. I would look into the DLS Iridium 8/3/tweet myself as well as the Focal Polykevlar or Polyglass 3 way set ups.

Fej

gr8vet

Thanks guys, and yes he was talking right at $ 2000.00. He was also talking about using mids bass, not true subs.

I appreciate your help!

tt

adown

Another way to go is put in some good 6 1/2"'s in the rear and good 3 1/5"s in the doors, add a 10 or 12 in the rear with the stock Bose 8's running in series with eachother and parralell with the rear sub.

fej

The factory 8's are CRAP, it is not worth the time nor effort to wire them into the system if you are upgrading all of the other speakers. IMO either run the stock deck, and an amp and a sub, replace the 3.5" twiddlers and make a NICE improvement, OR replace the entire door speaker assembly altogether along with the rest of the system and get rid of the Blose completely. I have had tweeters with better magnet structures on them than the blose 8's

Fej

adown

Have you personally run 50-100 watts of good power to those 8's in the pod they come in.

fej

In a friend's car as we were messing around with the amp set up yes. Watts were about 75 per side. There was no definition and it lacked the low end tightness that midbass should have. Granted this is through the stock blose "tuned" signal, but regardless I was not impressed. I would rather have a paper coned 8" with a 3" magnet than the glorified powered radiator that the blose is. Opinion remains the same friend

Fej

adown

Thats what I wanted to hear. It's easy to knock a stock system, but I was wondering if anybody had indeed run more power to them. They are pretty tight punchy drivers for stock. I was going to run them series -parallel with a 12 with a passive bandpass filter keeping them in the 60 -120hz range for a little more mid-bass, and run the 6 1/2's above 120.

fej

Most quality 6.5's with proper deadening will play down to around 90hz without too much difficulty. Generally requires a more high end 6.5" or a seriously deadened and well powered 6.5" to play down into the 70 and below range. I have a 7" Focal polykevlar plying 63hz (24db) to 400hz (24db) atm in my car and it is doing quite well, but I want MORE so I am going to give them a touch of gain from the minimum they are at now.

Leo just did an install with a 6" sub in the door of a c5 with some good results. I am sure it is doable and like all things audio do what sounds good to your ear

Fej