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installing sub in C5

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Old Jul 9, 2006 | 08:50 AM
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Default installing sub in C5

OK I searched and did not find a clear cut post.
Bought a sub box and already have a amp.
I have seen some posts about the pac adapter or direct with line convertor from the speakers. I think for now I would like to tap into the rear sub . What convertor do I need. How did you all run the power and switch wires to the amp. Where did you tap the switch wire from.

Just looking for what a few of you have done.

If there is a search link I missed feel free to link me to it.

Thanks
Dennis
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Old Jul 9, 2006 | 01:22 PM
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not possible, any line you tap into, sucks. Some have tried it, sounded bad, or couldnt get a clean enough signal, bought the pac adapter and were done with it. For how easy it is to use the adapter, you cant go wrong, only splice one wire for the remote on and your done. you have 2 sets of rca outs and you are golden. the adapter you are looking for is a pac aoem-vet1 i believe
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Old Jul 9, 2006 | 05:47 PM
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Thanks... I jsut ordered the pac adapter from logjam. Waiting for the the items to arrive. Should all arrive this week and then next weekend to perform the install.

Thanks
Dennis
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Old Jul 9, 2006 | 08:05 PM
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A great adapter, you cant go wrong
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Old Jul 10, 2006 | 12:27 AM
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Yep...that PAC aoem-vet1 adapter is the way to go (and the way I went). You just plug and play all the factory harnesses plus splice the remote turn on wire and you are ready to rock!
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Old Jul 16, 2006 | 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Duramax Dave
Yep...that PAC aoem-vet1 adapter is the way to go (and the way I went). You just plug and play all the factory harnesses plus splice the remote turn on wire and you are ready to rock!

I got the PAC today and am attempting a install. Do you have to splice the remote turn on wire? What does this do?
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Old Jul 16, 2006 | 11:42 PM
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Yes, you do have to splice the green (I believe) remote turn on wire into the big factory black plug. This then allows the blue (i believe) remote turn on wire on the output side of the PAC adapter to be used to send turn on power to the amp(s).

I think their is a tag on the PAC adapter telling you which terminal wire in the factory plug that you need to splice into to. I simply removed some of the insulation from that wire, wrapped the bare wire from the input side of the PAC around it, a touch of solder, and finish by wrapping in black tape.

Hope this helps...
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Old Jul 17, 2006 | 10:04 AM
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Old Jul 17, 2006 | 11:51 AM
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A new PAC does come with the tag on which wire to tap into, the problem i ran into was that there are two dark green wires on that harness, but I just made a quick run to the C5 FAQ for the wiring diagrams to see which one to tap into -- after that it was easy as pie. Also, I don't know if you plan on replacing the fronts anytime soon but if you are I'd recommend running the RCAs to the rear of the car now along with a power wire large enough to handle both applications, so you don't have to pull up the carpet later when you decide to do it. Or that's what I did anyway, hopfully saving myself some work when I change out the door speakers.
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Old Jul 17, 2006 | 12:57 PM
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Ragin Cajun has good advice...if you think you will do front speakers, run the extra set of RCA's now. Run larger size power cable too if you plan to add more amps later on.

It's not hard to remove the interior and run this stuff, it just makes it less time consuming if you do it all once.
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Old Jul 17, 2006 | 01:12 PM
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So are most folks pleased with the stereo by just adding a Sub/amp with the PAC adapter? (sound quality wise)

I tried this in a previous car and it ended up the sub sounded way overpowering compared to the rest of the system. So, the rest of the speakers were soon to be replaced, followed by the head unit. In hindsight, I should have just replaced the entire system the first time. Is that the same for the C5's?

(I'm also about to try the PAC adapter...)

Thanks!
Jeff.
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Old Jul 17, 2006 | 04:14 PM
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I am happy with only adding a sub, but I also know it isn't the greatest sound out there. Of course I could overpower my stock Bose with the sub cranked up, but I adjusted it so that it hits hard but you can still hear the words being sung.

With that said, if you have any inkling of doing the whole stereo or you like really good sound, I would change the front speakers while you are at it. It will definitely sound even better with a whole system as opposed to just a stock Bose + sub.
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Old Jul 17, 2006 | 05:23 PM
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ragin has good advice, but its so easy to pull the interior out. Also, if you are running rca just incase, you will still need to pull the carpet out to run the new speaker wire as well. I would wait on running the extra rcas unless because some people wont even end up swicthing out to components after adding the sub.
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Old Jul 19, 2006 | 06:24 PM
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Finished up my install. The sub sounds great. The pac install was not too bad. Total was about 5 hours. I tested it all before I buried all the wires. My kenwood amp has a subwoofer bridged application. (so in this case it has a built in freq) Just hits on lows. Dont hear voiced and mids. Sounds great. Played some ACDC. I feel the sub really helps the stock bose system. I now keep the bass at middle adjusment. Sound is clear at pretty high levels.
I am very satisfied. A pac adapet and sub addition is well worth it.

Dennis
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Old Jul 19, 2006 | 10:48 PM
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So there you have it, another one ROCKING hard....
HELLS BELLS every time.........
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