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C6 door subs.

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Old Sep 9, 2006 | 02:24 AM
  #1  
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Default C6 door subs.

Are the factory door subs in the base stereo system in the C6 worth building around?I am not looking for thumping base as I listen to mostly Jazz,Blues and instrumental.I am thinking of Boston Acoustics S35/S55's with an Alpine F250 amp and a Kenwood head that puts out 22 amps RMSx4.I am trying to stay under 1K.
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Old Sep 27, 2006 | 10:08 PM
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That wouldn't be bad, but I think you can do more for under $1k, especially if you don't mind buying on eBay and doing some of the work yourself.

My first system will be something like:

Focal Polyglass V1 6.5's or Alpine X-Type 6.5 Components: ~$200 on ebay
MDF plates: $50
JL Audio a6450 amp: $350 on ebay
Custom sub box: $20 materials
JL Audio 8w3v2 subwoofer: $150 on ebay
Installation: $150 by friend at his shop

Total: $920

Last edited by mkiv808; Sep 27, 2006 at 10:12 PM.
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Old Sep 30, 2006 | 08:07 PM
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I hope you have a good friend because it took an experienced installer at least 8 hours to install my system (with at least one helper); See:
"DIY SUBWOOFER" in this Forum. And I built the subwoofer! (My system also included Bluetooth and Sirius radio.)


Originally Posted by mkiv808
That wouldn't be bad, but I think you can do more for under $1k, especially if you don't mind buying on eBay and doing some of the work yourself.

My first system will be something like:

Focal Polyglass V1 6.5's or Alpine X-Type 6.5 Components: ~$200 on ebay
MDF plates: $50
JL Audio a6450 amp: $350 on ebay
Custom sub box: $20 materials
JL Audio 8w3v2 subwoofer: $150 on ebay
Installation: $150 by friend at his shop

Total: $920
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Old Sep 30, 2006 | 08:52 PM
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8hrs sounds awfully high for an experienced install and helper
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Old Oct 1, 2006 | 01:08 AM
  #5  
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I'm in no hurry.If it takes eight weeks for me to do it's ok.I want every step of the install to be perfect. I love doing this stuff!
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Old Oct 1, 2006 | 02:38 AM
  #6  
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power to you im sure u will do a killer job
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Old Oct 1, 2006 | 07:01 AM
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What are you planning to do with the 5.5s? Hopefully not install them in the back since it will require a great deal of work to make solid boxes out of the trim panels. I would suggest getting a replacement speaker plates from TheKomoman, a Pac GM-24 harness (to modify and tap the HU for low level signals), a nice four channel amp, and some great 6in, 2 way speakers. This will sound much better than the set up you suggest - the Bose subs are pretty boomy.
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Old Oct 1, 2006 | 11:14 AM
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I have actually gone away from my original thinking after hanging around on"Audio" for a couple weeks.I have bought the door plates and am putting Infinity Kappa 6.5 components in the front,with Kappa 5.25 coaxials(with inline crossovers) in the hatch area.I got an Infinity Kappa 10" sub for the rear as well.I'm using two amps,an Audiobahn A4004V for the main speakers, and an Audiobahn A6005DN for the sub.I have the ADD-GM24 harness already modified.I'm doing a rewire for the speakers using Streetwires 14ga(12ga for the sub)and using and Streetwires No Noise patch cables.Power and ground wires 4ga.I have the complete insulation kit from Crazy Cowboy,and Dynamat Extreme for the doors and behind the speakers.I want to also get Audio Dave's new sub box/amp rack for the rear when it is ready.The only part I am stuck on is whether to replace the head unit now or not along with everything else or take it apart again possibly later.I keep coming back to the Eclipse 4000,but worry that changing the HU would get alot more complicated than just plugging in the ADD-GM24.In any event I have acculated quite a pile of parts in my garage!
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Old Oct 1, 2006 | 10:19 PM
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have u ever heard a good sub in a car? if not search one out and then u will know that the door subs blow chunks. they should be called mid bass drivers not subs. if they hit low they distort bad!!!! and i have the bose set up. working on a fiberglass box for a 8w7 as we speak that will destroy the 2 10's in the door...that right 1 8"!!!!!
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