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It would be equivalent to running a bi-wire setup in a home audio speaker, bypassing any kind of crossover. The midbass 8" drivers I'm looking at generally go up to 2,000Hz, whereas many tweeters start at 1,5000-2,000Hz
This is a BAD IDEA. Your tweeter would be toast without something to filter out lower frequencies heading to it.
Most tweeters (well almost all tweeters) will NOT play down to 1500hz at any sort of volume. Even with a 24db rolloff on the crossover they still will not play 1500 hz safely. Hell I don't like mine at the 3500hz on a 12db rolloff with the passive crossovers that I have now. I feel they break up a touch on the bottom end at high volume.
Anyways home drivers/car drivers .. regardless to safely power them you NEED crossvers .. even your swan's have crossovers built into the cabinets.
Most tweeters (well almost all tweeters) will NOT play down to 1500hz at any sort of volume. Even with a 24db rolloff on the crossover they still will not play 1500 hz safely. Hell I don't like mine at the 3500hz on a 12db rolloff with the passive crossovers that I have now. I feel they break up a touch on the bottom end at high volume.
Anyways home drivers/car drivers .. regardless to safely power them you NEED crossvers .. even your swan's have crossovers built into the cabinets.
Fej
Isn't that the point of bi-wiring in a home setup? To bypass crossovers?
Anyways, what would be the solution if I built my own 2-way system? Any crossovers I should be looking at?
Also, would it be a bad idea to rewire everything from the stock deck, get the new amp, the new speakers, and then install the Navigation unit LATER? Would that be a difficult process?
Again, this is the base stereo, not the Bose.
Thanks everyone for your help, it's very appreciated.
You could probably get that Vifa to fit in the position by marking the hole pattern on it's faceplate and drilling for the screw holes. Vifa makes nice drivers for the money.
As far as the 4/8 ohm thing yes, it's "safer" to run a higher resistance driver on an amp than lower, but most car amps are optimized for 4 ohm drivers so you wouldn't be getting the best out of the amp. So can you do that, sure, is it the *best* thing to do, nope.
Could the Vifa fit in one of your/Pipedreams' mounting plates for the 3.5" stock locale?
Then I just need 5.25" coaxs for the rear. JL Audio, Focal, and MB Quart are some brands I'm looking at. Although I have MB Quart in my Pathfinder and find them to be a little too bright.
You could make that work, yes, but either way you're modifying that Vifa, whether to fit to the plate or to fit to the stock mount.
I guess drilling new holes specificlaly for the stock mount would be easiest. Just wondering if the outer edges of the Vifa will come in contact with anything.
Bi-wiring is designed in most instances to allow 4 channels of the amplifier/receiver to power each of the 4 drivers .. IE 1 channel per driver as opposed to the conventional approach of wiring 2 channels of the amp to each side of speakers (1 channel = left 2 drivers). This usually is done in conjunction with some gold interconnects at the speaker terminal in order to allow all 4 of the speakers to see power. It does not bypass the crossovers ... this would lead to damage 99.9% of the time to your speakers when/if played at high volume.
I guess drilling new holes specificlaly for the stock mount would be easiest. Just wondering if the outer edges of the Vifa will come in contact with anything.
Just took another look at it, the diameter of that face plate will fall just inside the bolt circle of the factory mount and would not fit. Sorry about that, didn't mean to feed you bad info.