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Alright guys, I'm sick of not having good bass in the vette. I've been looking around the forums for a few days and have finally decided on adding 2 8" subs in the cubby holes. Today I get my two 8" RF Punch P2 subs and 400x1 Kicker amp in the mail from crutchfield.
I am going to mount the amp behind the passenger seat, drill a new hole in the firewall for the 4 ga. positive wire, and ground the amp on a seat bolt (after properly sanding the surface).
I am just going to tap into the right rear speaker and run the wire directly to the high level input of the amp.
The 4 ohm subs are going to be wired in parrallel to pull a 2 ohm load from the amp producing 400 watts RMS (200 per speaker) which is the max.
As far as the sub mounting. They recomment only .25 cubic feet for the sealed enclosure and the cubby has around .4 from what I've read. I think instead of just putting an MDF top on the cubby, I'm going to actually build a box with 1/2" MDF that slides into the cubby (providing there is enough clearance still for the width of the sub). This will make the box approximately .3 cubic feet (closer to specs) and will allow me to easily remove the box if needed (plus I don't permanently modify the cubby.
Does everything here sound feasible? Am I missing anything before I dive in tonight? I figure I better check my thoughts with the experts first
sounds good. you dont have to drill through the firewall for 4ga wire. You can use the existing grommet. make sure you just use a little lube to get the thick cable through the grommet. trust me it helps tremendously. Im pretty sure you wont have to sand the ground point. Its pretty much fiberglass there and its not painted. Only metal point is the bolt itself which is a great grounding point
edit: i see you have a c6, didnt realize till after. anyway. i dont see it being that much different from the c5. i would check to see if you can use an existing grommet so you dont have to do any driling. same goes for the ground point. i dont foresee any need for sanding
sounds good. you dont have to drill through the firewall for 4ga wire. You can use the existing grommet. make sure you just use a little lube to get the thick cable through the grommet. trust me it helps tremendously. Im pretty sure you wont have to sand the ground point. Its pretty much fiberglass there and its not painted. Only metal point is the bolt itself which is a great grounding point
edit: i see you have a c6, didnt realize till after. anyway. i dont see it being that much different from the c5. i would check to see if you can use an existing grommet so you dont have to do any driling. same goes for the ground point. i dont foresee any need for sanding
it's always best to sand at/around the ground point.
You will also need an amp turn on wire,ideally to come on with the radio rather than every time the car is turned on.Some of our experienced installers on the forum can help you with exactly where to find that source.
I am just going to tap into the right rear speaker and run the wire directly to the high level input of the amp.
keep in mind that while subs do not have to be wired as stereo and can easily be wired as mono for the output, by tapping into only one channel (the right rear speaker for signal) you may not be getting all of the bass frequency information. Depending on how any music source is recorded the left and right channels have different information so by only tapping into one channel rather than both channels you are going to be missing information on a lot of sources you are going to listen to.
Also, does the amp you are using have built in crossover control? By tapping into a full range driver speaker for signal you are going to be recieving full frequency range rhar you do not want the sub to reproduce. If the amp already has a built in cross over to filter out everything above subbass frequencies than you are OK but otherwise you will need to wire in a crossover.
(sorry, I did not click on the link to check the specs on the amp so that info may have been included in the linked specs)
Speakers are installed but I'm waiting on the amp until tomorrow. The kicker amp is a D sub amp with built in crossover for subs so I should be ok. Most music directs bass to both speakers but I agree that I may lose the bass if the song fades left or right (collective soul comes to mind).
I am dreading the amp install. I hate having to take everything apart to route the wires. That is why I'm waiting until I have time to dedicate to it. I have decided I don't want to give up the seat space so I am installing the amp against the rear of the car.
So far the speakers look pretty good. I just need to order my loyds mat to finish the look.
We'll, I finished the amp install today (minus touch-ups). Overall I am happy with the setup but not so happy with the output. I think my sealed boxes aren't "Sealed" enough. there is too many gaps in the cubby holes that are causing a bandpass sound instead of a sealed box hit. I am going to see what I can do about that.
Excuse the mess in the pictures. I haven't vaccumed yet. My Lloyds mat will hide everything except the speakers once I get it.
And a couple of new pics of my z06 Quarter panel conversion that I mentioned
As far as the sub mounting. They recomment only .25 cubic feet for the sealed enclosure and the cubby has around .4 from what I've read. I think instead of just putting an MDF top on the cubby, I'm going to actually build a box with 1/2" MDF that slides into the cubby (providing there is enough clearance still for the width of the sub). This will make the box approximately .3 cubic feet (closer to specs) and will allow me to easily remove the box if needed (plus I don't permanently modify the cubby.
Neal
Did you build the box like you stated? I am thinking about doing the exact same thing in my Vert. How was the fit in the cubby holes?
Bill,
There wasn't enough room so I didn't build the internal box. The speaker was a tight fit and was right up against the front of the enclosure.
Overall there is too many open air places in the cubby and the sound is muddy. I am actually in the process of building a box towards the front of the hatch (by the seats) that will be carpetted and fully enclosed. I'm hoping for better results.
can you build a box thats 1/4 mdf on the sides adn bottom, and use a thicker for the top. you'll get support from the cubby hole and just use the thicker top for added support. just make it a tight fitting box. and maybe use some poly fill if you need that extra airspace
I just got done carpetting the box. I will take some pictures with it in the car tomorrow.
This box will go up agains the back of the seats in the hatch. At only 6 3/4" tall it is small for the sound. So far with test fitting it I am very happy with the sound results!
Oh, and to answer your question DPG: Probably but not with the subs I purchased. The magnet was resting on the front of the inner box with no room, while the mounting lip was pushing on the back carpet of the car. It was that tight! I think there are smaller 8" subs out there though that will probably work with what you suggested.