Advice needed for amp/components
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 2,964
Likes: 310
From: Maryland
Advice needed for amp/components
I've got a 98 C5 that I'm trying to decide on which setup to go with. I have a JL Stealthbox and the PAC-OEM interface thingamajig so I can keep the factory headunit(nothing installed yet however). Anyhow, I'm afraid the door speakers won't have enough volume to compete with the sub.
I'd like to get a set of components for the doors, and need some recommendations. I also need to find out what is entailed in mounting them. I am not looking for top quality, high end speakers here...just something that sounds pretty clear and loud compared to the sub.
I also need to know what kinda amp I need (I've read that the JL sub needs 200-300 amps). So do I buy a 4x100 amp, and bridge two channels for the sub and one each for the doors?
I also think I am going to eliminate the rear speakers.
In terms of money, I don't wanna spend anymore than 200-300 on speakers, and then I'll spend whatever I have to for an appropriate amp.
I really would like to stick with the factory head unit, but if its really counterproductive to having a good sound, lemme know that too.
Thanks for any/all help you can provide.
I'd like to get a set of components for the doors, and need some recommendations. I also need to find out what is entailed in mounting them. I am not looking for top quality, high end speakers here...just something that sounds pretty clear and loud compared to the sub.
I also need to know what kinda amp I need (I've read that the JL sub needs 200-300 amps). So do I buy a 4x100 amp, and bridge two channels for the sub and one each for the doors?
I also think I am going to eliminate the rear speakers.
In terms of money, I don't wanna spend anymore than 200-300 on speakers, and then I'll spend whatever I have to for an appropriate amp.
I really would like to stick with the factory head unit, but if its really counterproductive to having a good sound, lemme know that too.
Thanks for any/all help you can provide.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 40,156
Likes: 45
From: San Pedro CA
What sub is in the stealthbox? That will define the watts required.
You may want to scan the C5 Audio FAQ, too. I am sure it will have some good advice for you.
Also, ditching the rear speakers would be wise... they don't do much... other than muddy the soundstage.
You may want to scan the C5 Audio FAQ, too. I am sure it will have some good advice for you.
Also, ditching the rear speakers would be wise... they don't do much... other than muddy the soundstage.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 2,964
Likes: 310
From: Maryland
I'm sure this isn't enough info, but it is a 10" JL sub. Is there a specific sub that JL puts in the stealthboxes, or can you always order whichever one you want? If there is a general sub, I'm sure thats the one.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 3,306
Likes: 2
From: Wesley Chapel Fl
Generally the stealth boxes are predesigned for a specific JL sub...sometimes you can make a change.
From what you are talking it would overall be best to dump the factory head unit. You will have less chance for noise issues, a more straight forward installation, and much better sound quality.
There are many different seperate sets you can choose from. It is a good idea to visit your local shops and listen to a few different brands. JL Audio is making some excellent seperate sets. Match the amp to the speakers you choose. Yes you can use a four channel amp to power the front speakers and the sub. It is a very good idea to so because it saves space, money, time, and it simplifies your system.
To install the front speakers remove the factory speaker. Use it as a template to make a new mounting plate. Cut out the mounting plate and use the factory mounting locations. I like to use ABS or aluminum for my mounting plates so I do not have to worry about it rotting when it gets wet.
From what you are talking it would overall be best to dump the factory head unit. You will have less chance for noise issues, a more straight forward installation, and much better sound quality.
There are many different seperate sets you can choose from. It is a good idea to visit your local shops and listen to a few different brands. JL Audio is making some excellent seperate sets. Match the amp to the speakers you choose. Yes you can use a four channel amp to power the front speakers and the sub. It is a very good idea to so because it saves space, money, time, and it simplifies your system.
To install the front speakers remove the factory speaker. Use it as a template to make a new mounting plate. Cut out the mounting plate and use the factory mounting locations. I like to use ABS or aluminum for my mounting plates so I do not have to worry about it rotting when it gets wet.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,777
Likes: 1
From: Port Neches Texas
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09
I have the JL Stealthbox with their recommended 250/1 amp. It sounds GREAT to me. Really changed the whole nature of the music to have some good clean and clear lows. I would do it the same way if I did it again.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 2,964
Likes: 310
From: Maryland
Well, if it requires 250, then am I going to have to buy two amps...one to run the sub and one to run the components in the doors? I was trying to only have one amp, so I could hide it easily.
Any recommendations for components for a system with a stock head unit and jl sub in the rear?
Any recommendations for components for a system with a stock head unit and jl sub in the rear?
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,847
Likes: 439
From: Spring Texas
Originally Posted by AbsolutHank
Well, if it requires 250, then am I going to have to buy two amps...one to run the sub and one to run the components in the doors? I was trying to only have one amp, so I could hide it easily.
Any recommendations for components for a system with a stock head unit and jl sub in the rear?
Any recommendations for components for a system with a stock head unit and jl sub in the rear?
AMP: http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps.php?amp_id=253
Speaker mounts: Custom (some members sell them here)
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,777
Likes: 1
From: Port Neches Texas
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09
These are the ones I put in mine powered by a JL 300.2 amp. The sub is powered by a stand alone JL 250.1 amp as previously stated. Here are some pics of the install. I kept the stock HU to keep the HUD interface and all stock warnings/bells.
Door Speakers: Dynaudio 2 channel model 240 mk ii (www.dynaudio.de/eng/auto/mobile/240mk2.php )
Door Speakers: Dynaudio 2 channel model 240 mk ii (www.dynaudio.de/eng/auto/mobile/240mk2.php )
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 2,964
Likes: 310
From: Maryland
Originally Posted by VinceC5
Door speakers: http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_c...php?comp_id=65
AMP: http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps.php?amp_id=253
Speaker mounts: Custom (some members sell them here)
AMP: http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps.php?amp_id=253
Speaker mounts: Custom (some members sell them here)
Holy cow those speakers are expensive!
I guess with that amp, I would run one channel to the sub and split the other channel between both door speakers?
Racer
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 447
Likes: 0
From: San Jose Ca
Originally Posted by AbsolutHank
Anyhow, I'm afraid the door speakers won't have enough volume to compete with the sub.
Thanks for any/all help you can provide.
Thanks for any/all help you can provide.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 6,059
Likes: 2
From: Texas
Originally Posted by Sick Z06
That is what the amp's "gain" **** is for.
IMO I would look at amps other than JL. They make nice amps, but if you are going to bridge them (ones with RIPS), they are not all that great as they will make less power than an amp without RIPS. I would look at a decent 4x75 watt amp like Alpine or Arc Audio and run the sub bridged to the rear channels which would be around 300 watts and run the front channels to the front speakers.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 40,156
Likes: 45
From: San Pedro CA
Originally Posted by Sick Z06
That is what the amp's "gain" **** is for.
If the gain is too high, the system will start to pick up noise. You see, the gain actually sets the sensitivity of the amp. Too much, and the sound quality can go to **** real fast.
I know you are joking! So this was for the benefit of other folks.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,847
Likes: 439
From: Spring Texas
Originally Posted by AbsolutHank
Holy cow those speakers are expensive!
I guess with that amp, I would run one channel to the sub and split the other channel between both door speakers?
I guess with that amp, I would run one channel to the sub and split the other channel between both door speakers?
Racer
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 447
Likes: 0
From: San Jose Ca
Originally Posted by bogus
For the rest of the world, "gain" ***** are not to be used as a volume control, but as a tuning method.
If the gain is too high, the system will start to pick up noise. You see, the gain actually sets the sensitivity of the amp. Too much, and the sound quality can go to **** real fast.
I know you are joking! So this was for the benefit of other folks.
If the gain is too high, the system will start to pick up noise. You see, the gain actually sets the sensitivity of the amp. Too much, and the sound quality can go to **** real fast.
I know you are joking! So this was for the benefit of other folks.
+1 - indeed I was joking.
I wouldnt think of adding a sub onto a system without the rest of everything balanced. I've been a MECP cert'd installer for years.