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I've got a 95 C4 Corvette that I'm completely gutting of it's Bose system.
I will be starting completely from scratch here. I have a list finally narrowed down for the parts to install. Let me know what you all think.
H/U - Alpine CDA-9856
AMP - Rockford P850.4 four Channel 100x4 @ 4ohms
Rear Speakers - 2 RF Punch 4 ohm 8" subs - 150rms / 200 max
Front Speakers - Polk Audio MMC6500 6.5" Components - 125RMS
The way I was planning on running things was each corner to each of the 4 channels on the Amp. Does this seem like it will work ok?
I've installed alot of stereos but have no experience with "from scratch" systems.
Thanks in advance for ALL your replies.
You are going to have to make some custom mounts out of MDF to mount the 6.5" comps up front, not very hard, but not exactly "drop in".
As for the 8" subs, you might want to do a search on here, IIRC -=Jeff=- has had issues with the 8" subs in the rear locations sounding muddy because you cant seal up the airspace.
I'm going to try my best to seal the rear and then maybe fill the "box" with some fill to make it a bit smaller.
Do you think that the Amp. I listed will power the entire system allright?
After a little more research I think I may drop down to 5.25 in the front. I have noticed that the Bose front enclosure is a bit to crazy to modify so I think I'll start with MDF and a hack saw and completely fab. mounts.
I put 8" fosqate FNQ's in my 88 rear locations and they sounded tight and punchy. I admit it was a pita sealing up the enclosure, but well worth it. Also listen to those polks with your music and the same power you are going to run. Listen to them at a few places if you can. I'm not a fan of polks. The 1st system in my 88 was all Polk, 2 10", 2 6 1/2", and their quad tweets. I think it was a 3/4" and a 1". They just never sounded great and didn't last long at all. 400wt to the subs, 200 to the mids, and 100 to the tweets. Good luck
Its all subjective IMO the DB's are a great budget component, many forum members can attest to hearin them in my car. Momos are a very nice and the new SR's are killer once you break them in.
One big thing is to make sure you deaden your doors
With that amp, you could bridge two of the channels and power two 8" 8ohm subwoofers with 425 watts (212 watts each). Connect the two 8ohm subs in parallel + to + -to- to get a 4ohm impedance. The subs will play a lot cleaner with more power going to them.
There is a forum member, screen name Vrum Vrum that makes a very nice looking mount for your HU. Just search on his name to contact him. I have my front components mounted like GKK, and I am not happy with the sound. I intend to mount them into the door panels, to raise the soundstage.If you look in the C4 FAQ, I believe Andy Bogus has several pictures of his front component speakers mounted in his door panels.
Good Luck with the install. We all like to see pictures
There is a forum member, screen name Vrum Vrum that makes a very nice looking mount for your HU. Just search on his name to contact him. I have my front components mounted like GKK, and I am not happy with the sound. I intend to mount them into the door panels, to raise the soundstage.If you look in the C4 FAQ, I believe Andy Bogus has several pictures of his front component speakers mounted in his door panels.
Good Luck with the install. We all like to see pictures
I went with another install kit that has the pocket below the H/U. A little extra space and a place (possibly) for the ipod to sit.
I thought about the soundstage idea and where the speakers are mounted and that is another reason for the polk components. You can acutally aim the tweeters up to 15 degrees. I'm hoping this will work. We'll see.
I just purchased MDF today to start fabbing. I also got a ton of caulk, dynamat and poly-fill to hopefully seal up the stock rear boxes so the 8's will sound the best they can.
I'll keep you all posted and PLEASE keep the recommendations coming. I check this about twice a day.