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From: Alhambra Calismognazifornia, in the country everyone comes just to complain but won't go back home!
need suggestion for liquid dampener application
i've decided to go the liquid route for dampening (Stinger Liquid Roadkill). however, i need to decide how to deal with what i already have in there, which is the C5Cowboy thermal barrier stuff. i glued that stuff in there VERY painstakingly using 3M spray adhesive so i think it's going to be a serious pain to remove...if even possible. i if i try to just pull it out it will just leave behind the foil layer. so, the choices that i face are 3:
1- leave the stuff in and just paint over the thermal barrier
2- rip the stuff out and just paint over the residue (glue and pieces of foil i'm sure)
3- take the time necessary and fully remove the thermal barrier stuff
i'm really not liking #3 one bit and highly doubt i'll pick that one . of the other two, which on might surrender the best results??
my only concern about painting over the cowboy kit is that the flexible material may mot be stiff enough for the liquid stuff to go on. Am i making sense here. You may try using a diff material to go on top of the kit if you havent already bought it. The liquid stuff isnt very flexible after drying. at least i dont thnk it is. Your liquid deadner may be different after drying.
From: Alhambra Calismognazifornia, in the country everyone comes just to complain but won't go back home!
Originally Posted by DPG
my only concern about painting over the cowboy kit is that the flexible material may mot be stiff enough for the liquid stuff to go on. Am i making sense here. You may try using a diff material to go on top of the kit if you havent already bought it. The liquid stuff isnt very flexible after drying. at least i dont thnk it is. Your liquid deadner may be different after drying.
DPG
hmm, not really sure what you were trying to say.... why are you concerned with the flexibility of the material i'm trying to paint over? even if the stuff dries rock hard i can't think why that would be an issue. can you please explain what i'm missing?
Originally Posted by pentavolvo
u will have one hell of a time even getting cowboy kit out half assed, i would put a non liquid deadener over it
pentavolvo,
yeah, that is exactly what i was worried about. that 3M stuff is pretty damn strong and the barrier stuff has a pretty weak peel strength.
is your suggestion to use some other adhesive backed sheet dampener (like dynamat, just for example sake :lol)? or are you suggesting a sound deadener/barrier material (like Elemental Designs eDead V4 TekLite)?
i know you said deadener but it seems many people mix up the terms which, at least to me, mean different things...
i would assume you're referring to a deadener/barrier because if you don't think the liquid dampener will do anything why would you be recommending a sheet product that is designed to do the same thing. please let me know if my assumption is correct.
not sure if it is a good idea or not but what about skipping the dampener and using a close cell foam over the cowboy kit. not sure what the cowboy kit does so I may be talking out of turn
Dampening is all about mass. Layers of different products are fine, all do something different. The product choice will depend on what you are trying to (and trying not to) do. Are you wanting SQ, to kill the road noise or are you concerned about weight? The liquid stuff will go fine over the insulation kit. They can take some time to dry and need to be put on in layers (creating more drying time), but mm for mm they do about the same as the butyl stick on stuff. If you are worried about weight, I would go with a barrier over the insulation kit like...
I am just not sure how well the liquid will "take" going over the top of the Cowboys stuff ... please post pics if you go that route as I have some left over I may do the same in the rear of mine.
Liquid is routinely put over squares of butyl and asphalt products. My biggest concern putting it over the Frost King type stuff would be the cushion in it. When pressed hard, after it dried, would it crack because of the cushion in the insulation? Most of the other deadener products have little give. I would think a layer of the squares would be better than the liquid.
From: Alhambra Calismognazifornia, in the country everyone comes just to complain but won't go back home!
Originally Posted by Speeed-Racer
Dampening is all about mass. Layers of different products are fine, all do something different. The product choice will depend on what you are trying to (and trying not to) do. Are you wanting SQ, to kill the road noise or are you concerned about weight? The liquid stuff will go fine over the insulation kit. They can take some time to dry and need to be put on in layers (creating more drying time), but mm for mm they do about the same as the butyl stick on stuff. If you are worried about weight, I would go with a barrier over the insulation kit like...
You can load up on this to cram in doors, etc. You can 3M 90 it over the insulation kit too.
Speed
speed,
thanks for the link, i hadn't checked them out yet.
i'm starting to warm up to the idea of skipping the liquid/sheet dampeners and use a barrier instead on top of the insulation. after looking at the different products from SSA i'm thinking my new gameplan should be to use Luxury Liner on the horizontal surfaces of the rear trunk area, the wall behind seats and the passenger compartment floor, and then use Overkill/Overkill Pro on the doors and the vertical surfaces in the rear hatch area.
one major concern i have with this approach though (with any approach actually, but these are even worse) is with the bulk/thickness of all this stuff. it was a pain in many areas to get the carpet and panels to fit back perfectly after the insulation kit and i never could get the rear compartment covers to latch again due to the added thickness. i know this stuff i'm considering would be somewhat compressible so it wont be .375" of added thickness but it still has to be a problem. are you guys just cutting it back well away from any areas where you might have a panel that has to snap in or carpet tuck under a panel, etc..? my insulation kit install was 100% (literally no gaps, just holes cut where needed). how far back to you normally trim from some feature where you have to put some stock panel back on?
Liquid is routinely put over squares of butyl and asphalt products. My biggest concern putting it over the Frost King type stuff would be the cushion in it. When pressed hard, after it dried, would it crack because of the cushion in the insulation? Most of the other deadener products have little give. I would think a layer of the squares would be better than the liquid.
Speed
Thanks thats what i was trying to say. That in places where you would put feet, or objects either in the trunk area or right behind the seat area. You press hard enough and since its not too flexible when dry, it would crack thus becoming ineffective and just become loose material that can creat more noise. Look into the closed cell foam as mentioned before.
Generally, whatever material you use, it is just cut away from latches, etc. so that they will work properly. When you go back in to add the other material, it would be easy enough to pare back the insulation then.
As for the the Luxury Liner versus the Overkill Pro, the Luxury Liner is open celled and the Overkill Pro closed cell. The Luxury Liner is designed to go over the Overkill Pro. You might think about using the Overkill Pro everywhere and then in areas that can tolerate greater thickness, put some Luxury Liner over the Overkill Pro. I like your current plan much better than the initial.
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