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Im very familiar with the options for the front (I think Im going to go with a 6.5in infinity kappa component 2-way). But Im not certain at all about the best options for the rear. If 6x9's can fit, that would be nice for the bass. Ive heard that the rear hole is shallow and was wondering what measurements I have to work with, or just general suggestions.
rears in a C5 are either 6.5" round for a coupe or 5.25 for the vert, Z06 and the FRC. The mounting depth is shallow, but most coaxial speakers will fit. If you're worried about the mounting depth, you can use a MDF speaker ring as a spacer between the speaker and the mount. I used this approach to install a set of Alpine SPX 177r comps in the rears of my coupe.
Anyone have some suggestions for some speakers that can fit in the rear to add some bass? If i can avoid getting a sub, I'd like to. Like I said before, Im getting the infinity components up front, and have an old 6.5in infinity reference 2-way set lying around in my garage (but i dont think they will make enough bass). It will all be powered by an old 480 watt 4-way pioneer amp if that makes any difference.
there aren't very many 6.5" that will pump out the low frequencies below 200Hz. The only thing i can reccomend is a sound processor with BBE technology. BBE (barcus berry electronics) This corrects phaze distortion brightening your highs and beefing up your lows. you might also want to consider an external EQ. Alpine makes a few .5 DIN EQs with both BBE and multi band EQ.
you'd be much better off without rears and properly sealing and deadening the doors while using a good quality 6.5" component system. bridge the chans and properly adjust your gains and you'll have a system with plenty of headroom.
after you do that, if you're still not happy then get the sub and power it off of the rear chans while using the front chans to power the door speakers.
The deadening process in the doors wont be a waste if you end up adding a sub. it'll give you better midrange and allow you to cross over lower, making it a lot harder to localize the sub.
you'd be much better off without rears and properly sealing and deadening the doors while using a good quality 6.5" component system. bridge the chans and properly adjust your gains and you'll have a system with plenty of headroom.
after you do that, if you're still not happy then get the sub and power it off of the rear chans while using the front chans to power the door speakers.
The deadening process in the doors wont be a waste if you end up adding a sub. it'll give you better midrange and allow you to cross over lower, making it a lot harder to localize the sub.
what's yoru budget for the door speakers?
the door speakers I already ordered. Heres what I got:
Nice set, I just installed the same system. Use the -3db option on the tweeter, to me, it sounds better.
that seems to be an almost universal opinion. All the customer reviews ive read have said 2 things: use the -3db option, and dont put the tweeter very far from the main speaker.
that seems to be an almost universal opinion. All the customer reviews ive read have said 2 things: use the -3db option, and dont put the tweeter very far from the main speaker.
I fit all three pieces on the adpater plate. So there is not need to move the tweeter. IMHO.
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