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I have polk audio speakers in my 93. 5 1/4 components up front and 6x9 in the rear they are rated at 10-100 watt rms with a peak of 200 watts. what size amp can I use. I want a 4 chanel amp and might possibly add a subwoofer later. any sugestions?
I have polk audio speakers in my 93. 5 1/4 components up front and 6x9 in the rear they are rated at 10-100 watt rms with a peak of 200 watts. what size amp can I use. I want a 4 chanel amp and might possibly add a subwoofer later. any sugestions?
Speaker wattage ratings are far more about warranty than capability. Good speakers can take huge amounts of power as long as that power is CLEAN. Basically I'd disregard the ratings of the speakers and focus on the amp. Your ears will tell you when the amp is straining and you should turn the volume down - when you hear distortion, you've gone too far.
Component speakers tend to require a bit more power as sometimes the crossover can be parasitic (depending on the crossover). Also the power ratings of manufacturers are a bit misleading - higher end companies tend to rate their amps lower but the amps are usually capable of far more power than their ratings. Since you're using components I'd go at least 4x50, probably more like 4x75 to give yourself some headroom. An amp that has lower power output for the rear channels may also suit your needs since you'll only want those rear providing fill and your sound stage to be driven by the components.
i wouldn't put anything less then 75 wrms (especially if you have modded car or vert) and don't be afraid to throw 200 wrms at them. like komo said you just need clean power. if you set your gains correctly you'll have what is known as 'headroom' and your system will sound great.
What they have said. I recommend getting an amp with built in crossovers so that you can set your spots on your fronts and rear speakers accordingly (probably about 80hz on the fronts and 50-60 on the rear 6x9's). 4x75 would be a good choice at 4 ohms. Might want to look into a 4x100 amp like the Phoenix Gold Xenon line. (a little tough to find but well built and solid performing for the money).
Use 75% or so of the max volume of your HU and keep your amp gains down, whether you have them at minimum or maximum the amp still has the full range of its power available, the lower the setting the less likely it is to clip, which will send distortion to your speakers, which is never a good thing.
Basically what all the guys said. Polk makes a really nice 4 channel amp as well the c400.4 its underrated i absoultely love mine and i have polk 6.5 components and 5x7 coaxials in my mustang and they scream
i was shown this on another forum: http://www.ikesound.com/product-product_id/3880
great price and great brand. dont know much about the amp specifically though. the ratings on it are very nice
I just came back from amp shopping. I picked up an Eclipse EA400 4 channel amp. 100 watt x 4 @4 ohms. I also picked up some Tsunami 4 channel twisted pair RCA's. I spent twice what i thought i would, but that is usually what happens. would 8 gauge wire be enough for this amp? seems like it would. also where is the best place to ground the amp in the rear of the car? thanks
Darn. Too late. I was going to agree with pretty much all of the above except I was going to recommend an amp with clip lights. Without hooking up an oscilloscope, there's no better way to properly adjust the system for a proper gain structure. As stated above, you don't want to clip the amp (and certainly not the HU) in order to get the volume you want. The clip indicators will tell you well ahead of time that you are beginning to reach high levels of distortion. After the system is installed and balanced, you set the head unit for about 7 on the 1-10 scale. Then you raise the gain on the amps until the clip lights just begin to flicker. This is when you know you've reached the maximum output of the system. If the volume is sufficient for your needs then you know you've got the right amount of power. Power amps without clip lights is a sin. Unless it's just for background music. This procedure will allow a little bit of extra gain on the HU for putting a little extra crank on low volume recordings.
Darn. Too late. I was going to agree with pretty much all of the above except I was going to recommend an amp with clip lights. Without hooking up an oscilloscope, there's no better way to properly adjust the system for a proper gain structure. As stated above, you don't want to clip the amp (and certainly not the HU) in order to get the volume you want. The clip indicators will tell you well ahead of time that you are beginning to reach high levels of distortion. After the system is installed and balanced, you set the head unit for about 7 on the 1-10 scale. Then you raise the gain on the amps until the clip lights just begin to flicker. This is when you know you've reached the maximum output of the system. If the volume is sufficient for your needs then you know you've got the right amount of power. Power amps without clip lights is a sin. Unless it's just for background music. This procedure will allow a little bit of extra gain on the HU for putting a little extra crank on low volume recordings.
ok another question, is there a good place other than the pos battery post to get the amp power? is there another lug somewhere close? this is on a '93 C4. also I used the factory wires for the head unit but they are a little small. what is a good source for 12v and switched 12v? I did run my own ground wire to the chasis. thanks
well it sucks alot of power you could prly get away with 8ga but it will bottleneck the amp. knukonceptz.com has best pricing on amp kits. Also just an fyi that amp is alot cheaper online. You have to go to the battery for amp power, radio power is fine with stock wiring
I would go with 4 gauge. 4 gauge from terminal at battery, fused within 12" of terminal, (say 120a) run through the firewall into the car to another fused connection (say 50-60a) and then run as short a length of 8 gauge as you can to the amp itself. Usually fairly easy to make that run less than a few feet, which 8 gauge will handle without problem. Power wire is not really the place to skimp on size IMO. You don't need large gauge speaker cable but a little oversize on the power wire for the main run of length is good idea. Ground is the same idea ... better to have a size over what would be the minimum requirement for the length and current draw.
From: Piedmont, SC Currently Own: 99 Nassau blue FRC. Previously Owned: 84,95,98 Indy Pace,01 Z06
Originally Posted by fej
I would go with 4 gauge. 4 gauge from terminal at battery, fused within 12" of terminal, (say 120a) run through the firewall into the car to another fused connection (say 50-60a) and then run as short a length of 8 gauge as you can to the amp itself. Usually fairly easy to make that run less than a few feet, which 8 gauge will handle without problem. Power wire is not really the place to skimp on size IMO. You don't need large gauge speaker cable but a little oversize on the power wire for the main run of length is good idea. Ground is the same idea ... better to have a size over what would be the minimum requirement for the length and current draw.
i wouldn't put anything less then 75 wrms (especially if you have modded car or vert) and don't be afraid to throw 200 wrms at them. like komo said you just need clean power. if you set your gains correctly you'll have what is known as 'headroom' and your system will sound great.
I just came back from amp shopping. I picked up an Eclipse EA400 4 channel amp. 100 watt x 4 @4 ohms.
I bought that same amp at Circuit City but, the power rating is 75 watts x 4 at 4ohms. The Eclipse amp sounded very good powering my 5 1/4" Infinity Kappa components but, it didn't have enough power for my 10" subwoofer when I bridged channels 3 & 4 which is only 150 watts.
I returned the amp later and now have a 4 channel Hifonics Zeus which is half the cost (bought on the internet) of the Eclipse and has 85 watts x 4 at 4ohms or 340 watts x 2 at 4ohms bridged for the subwoofer.
The Eclipse has enough power to drive component speakers but, you might want to get another amp to power a subwoofer.